Sudden loss of power - gas related?!!

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Had 95 11 & 06 13
'93 ST11 with 95K.
Suddenly lost power (motor died) while riding downtown, about 2 miles from home. No prior symptoms or indications.
Eventually started with 'choke' pulled in...and run at 3 to 3.5K RPM, but as soon as I tried to accelerate, it would cut off and die.
- would also idle with no choke on, but again, die, if tried to accelerate.
Managed to get home using the choke as my throttle!! - waving cars past me.

Sure seems gas related. Is it possibly a fuel pump failure?

2 Other issues:
1) No neutral light (bulb is fine)
2) No starting with kick stand down (or dies if put the stand down - in neutral).

Thanks for any insights here.
Peace,
Gord
 
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Thanks in further searching I found more info on that and so that will be the first thing I try when I get time next week.
By-passin the fuel shutoff(be sure to plug that vacuum line from motor) may resolve the issue
Your #2 statement........safety feature, and works as it should.
 
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By-passin the fuel shutoff(be sure to plug that vacuum line from motor) may resolve the issue
Your #2 statement........safety feature, and works as it should.
Not quite correct on that safety feature. It appears his isn't working correctly, as you can start the bike in neutral, with the side stand down. The engine is killed if you put it into gear with the stand down. Sounds like a faulty side stand switch.
 
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Not quite correct on that safety feature. It appears his isn't working correctly, as you can start the bike in neutral, with the side stand down. The engine is killed if you put it into gear with the stand down. Sounds like a faulty side stand switch.
Re-read........appreciate the correction;). That could likely explain the 'no nuetral' lite also:eek::.
 
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OP
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Where might I find the side stand switch - AND - where might the neutral 'switch' or connection be located? I presume close by?
Thanks...
 
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The side stand switch is on the side stand at the mounting point and the neutral switch is buried in the rear of the engine, under the fuel tank. Having a Honda Service Manual would be a big help to you.
 

Ron

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A bypass of the vac. valve is a 5 minute job when you get the plastic off. Bypass the valve with the hoses that are there. For trouble shooting , use one of the screws that hold the valve bracket to the air cleaner housing to plug thee vac. line.


Check the clutch switch also.

Good luck. :)
 
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I would put a light coating of Permatex blue gasket sealer on the threads of that screw, if that is what is used to plug the vacuum tube. The threads could pass air over time, as the tube "relaxes" around the threads.
 

Avtrician

#1 If you have no neutral light on when in neutral, then the switch could be faulty, try pulling in the clutch and starting(Sidestand up) . The bike should start.

#2 If there is no neutral light when in neutral, the the side stand not up sensing system will think the bike is in gear so will stop the engine.
 
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+1 on the removal of the vacuum pet cock. Also change your fuel filter and while you're at it, make sure your fuel pump is indeed pumping!

Below you'll see how easy it is to remove the petcock, and the bonus is you won't need to purchase any additional fuel lines as the ones that are there are the right length for easy bypass connection. Please note as some other ST'ers have indicated, you'll need to seal the vacuum tube. You can see my creativity was using a wooden golf tee. I did dab a bit of glue on there as well.

Also please note that I had previously removed my old fuel filter and replace it with this glass filter. Much better! You can see if/when it needs replacing. It fits in just as easy.

Petcock.jpgPetcock 2.jpgPetcock 3.jpg
 
OP
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THANKS, all, for the helpful and detailed replies - including pics. Very cool. I've been out of town and just got back, so will hop on those suggestions this week sometime. Playing the "catch-up" game for now from having been gone. Will post results.
OH - for those who have mentioned the clutch 'switch.' I by-passed that long ago (just don't like having to have the clutch in every time I start it), so wouldn't think that's an issue.
Peace,
Gord
 

John OoSTerhuis

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.... the clutch 'switch.' I by-passed that long ago (just don't like having to have the clutch in every time I start it)
Not sure I understand, Gord. The clutch switch is part of the engine start safety interlock system. What do you mean by "by-passed"? I sure don't want my ST to be able to start if it's not in neutral and the clutch switch is inop.

Regards, John
 
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What John said! I watched a fellow launch his bike into a line of nearby bikes because he thought he was clever by bypassing the clutch interlock.

Not to mention, think of the next poor owner that might not realize a prior owner did that. :eek:
 

Tom Mac 04a

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What John said! I watched a fellow launch his bike into a line of nearby bikes because he thought he was clever by bypassing the clutch interlock.
Happen to me with my pickup... pulled out of garage, closed door. Forgot a part in garage so shut off truck for key( left in first gear ), got part, closed door, started truck !
You got it, took out my garage door as the warmed up truck jumped forward 3 feet. :(
 
OP
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Had 95 11 & 06 13
Ouch, on the garage door!!
RE Clutch switch - tried it and it's working well (my earliest bikes didn't have one, so I just got used to it and bypass it now - and yes, will hook up again when I sell it!!)

OK - FUEL Issue: tried these tests - (Thanks again for all the ideas and help so far - don't give up on me yet!!)

1) By-passing vacuum shut off (and plugging vacuum line) - no change (that is, it idles w/o 'choke'. With choke goes up to 3K - but any movement of throttle any time kills the motor)
- filter appears clear - can see gas in it...will get another one, regardless, when I have time.

2) Fuel cutoff relay: as per Honda Service Manual pg 21-5 - performed voltage test and it was good.
- HOWEVER - I wasn't clear which wire at the fuel pump I was supposed to check the continuity to from the 4P Connector - the same (+) wire at the pump as per voltage test?? Guess so, as I just saw that the other protected wire at the pump is likely the fuel level indicator wire.

3) Fuel Pump Inspection - RE pg 21-6 - Shorting out the two wires - LOTS of fuel coming out, more than minimum required. So that rules out the pump itself.

OH - side stand switch also checks out fine - so that means the neutral connector must be off - will pull the tank and check that out this week yet!

SO, regarding the fuel issue, now, I'm out of ideas. What might I be overlooking? Could it be a huge vacuum leak somewhere (it happened suddenly w/o symptoms) that when accelerator is applied it cuts out?
Cheers,
Gord
 
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OP
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Had 95 11 & 06 13
Well, well...during my 'break' (I work from home) - went out to just check the bike out. It started well with 'choke' - and after warmed up some, it responded a bit to the throttle, but was doing some serious back-firing. Checked all vacuum connections that I could and they appeared fine.

I had removed the air filter last night as well as its bottom frame so I could see inside - so as it was idling, I thought of holding my hand over the dual hose small 'housing' or cover (for the small foam filter at the front of the filter housing), and RPMs went up slightly. I slowly moved the accelerator and the motor powered up smoothly and without missing - as per a normal running bike!! Interesting!!

I'll put everything back in place this evening and see how it responds. The foam piece there appears very "well used" so will try to find a replacement!
 

kiltman

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Shot in the dark here. What condition is your red connector by the main relay as well as the connector to the Voltage regulator? Are they melted?
I only say this because before my VRR went I experienced problems with backfiring and loss of power.
 
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