Potential timing belt/pulleys problem

ST1100Y said:

...but everyone points a finger at me when I suggest to always replace both idlers with the t/belt... ;-)

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Cheap insurance...

Ordered all my parts for a water pump and timing belt-n-pulleys R&R. Man, Honda must have gold plated those parts since I last checked 90 thousand miles ago.

George, are you coming this direction anytime soon?

John
via iPhone 4S

John OoSTerhuis said:

Man, Honda must have gold plated those parts since I last checked 90 thousand miles ago.

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Yep, unfortunately that's why I skipped the water pump stuff John.
Everything felt ok, fingers crossed.

John OoSTerhuis said:

...Honda must have gold plated those parts since I last checked 90 thousand miles ago.

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OTOH did you have 90 of trouble free K-miles with that stuff, and once replaced the piece of mind of another 100 coming....

ST1100Y said:

OTOH did you have 90 of trouble free K-miles with that stuff, and once replaced the piece of mind of another 100 coming....

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That's the plan, Martin. My SSMST is a "keeper." In October it will be 25 years old. What a great motorcycle!!!

John
via iPhone 4S

John OoSTerhuis said:

My SSMST is a "keeper."

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Ditto...
And honest, remarks about spare part prices is "complaining at a high level"... ;-)
Compared to other makes and models are service intensity and maintaining costs per kilometre/mile at a pretty low level with them STs...
Seems that just because their so trouble free most of the time, the few occasions they actually do require spares causes disproportionate heartburn ;-)

ST1100Y said:

remarks about spare part prices is "complaining at a high level"...

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Not all can always afford the best option.

I still think belt only at first change, all the above at the second. But then, I'm cheap. Consider myself lucky to have recognized the potential problem in the harmonic "squeak" lipSTick developed at ~195,000 miles.

BTW, she's still down. Motor is back together and runs fine but rear brakes are toast, pad pin is stuck fast. Parts ordered so she'll sit for the next month while I'm out 'n about on STick.

Leaving today, John, headed for Moonshine. Doubt I'll get as far north as you, tho.

My tensioner part is on backorder with no date given. According to the parts clerk that means at least two weeks. Arrrgh.

DeanR said:

Not all can always afford the best option.

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Well, compare it with the maintenance costs of other, popular motorcycles...
Hyperports require new tires like every 3.700 miles...
Go exotic with a Ducati and enjoy agonizing valve adjustment at the very same interval...
Chain drive require new sprocket-sets and chain like every 15~16.000... (not to mention the daily oiling...)
Single cylinder dual sports a full engine overhaul/rebuild like every 20~25.000... dealing with leaking head- and base gaskets in between...

OK, an ST needs oil change like every 7.500... yeah, could get tight with a longer vacation run...
Replacing final drive oil every 22.500, or going full synth every 30.000 miles...
...
I think we know the reST... ;-)

ST1100Y said:

Well, compare it with the maintenance costs of other, popular motorcycles...

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Was referring to the water pump/pulley replacement only.

John OoSTerhuis said:

My tensioner part is on backorder with no date given. According to the parts clerk that means at least two weeks. Arrrgh.

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Checked with my dealer's parts desk this morning and the tensioner just arrived! After I heal from my sinus surgery yesterday, I'll be taking The Grey GhOOST's clothes off and getting to work.

That's good news (except for the surgery part)!

Mark

I have a funny engine noise on my 1991 ST1100. All is fine normally. I can recreate this noise only while the bike is on the road, in gear and moving. Wont happen in neutral or on centerstand with the bike in gear and rear wheel spinning.

Roll it up to 6 grand and close the throttle. As the engine decelerates. I get a constant light zing that follows the revs down to near 2 grand. I swear it sounds like that darned tensioner spring buzzing. And never does it on acceleration. Just want to make sure before I go about this myself is that you state the tensioner pulley only can be removed without removing the belt.

Vroommmmmm-zzzzzzzz-zzzz-zzz-zz. It is driving me nuts! I'll replace the other idler if it does not cure the noise. Just trying to save money by doing this on my own. I have had my clutch cover off and don't care about the extra time needed if it makes getting the belt cover off easier.

craigstys said:

Wont happen in neutral or on centerstand

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Check the exhaust heat shields for a loose/lost bolt.
I lost one of the bolts and had a very odd noise that only occurred while moving as well.
Tightened the loose one and all was well.

Thanks for the quick tip. I have had the right side exhaust off for the clutch last year. All the bolts were there and I looked at them again. Tight as can be. I hate these little engine noises. Years ago my old VF 1000 had a cam chain tensioner noise that was over my head for technical ability to do. I ordered them before my local wrench did it and he said to me "good call". Call me lucky if you may. Exhaust is original, but in pretty good shape all around.

I agree that an idler or tensioner noise should be more consistent. Just like to have a look around there. Was told the belt was done. I even could find a slightly loose something else. I took a long road trip last year and of course, over scrutinized it because it was too quiet and smooth otherwise. Something tells me the noise goes away if I replace both the idler and tensioner pulleys. And educated hunch, perhaps.

craigstys said:

Wont happen in neutral or on centerstand with the bike in gear and rear wheel spinning.

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Can't say it with any authority, but it seems like the load on those tensioner pulleys wouldn't change much with engine load. The clutch is in that same general area, and is engine load related, so it might be what you're hearing is in the clutch.

As an update to this thread, further poking and prying found the front right exhaust shield bolted up, but slightly loose. All those collapsed washers in between the screws made it zing around. Thanks to all for the suggestions!

John OoSTerhuis said:

That's the way I plan to do it, based on others' reports over the years, including George's. I'll be adding the cam cover gasket to my parts list, already have a genuine new stock '91 pump sitting on the shelf. At 178K now, the Grey GhOOST will also be getting a new timing belt this spring.

John

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Ok, just to revive this thread - because I am in the middle of an ST11 waterpump replacement. Once the clutch cover, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, timing belt, and 7 waterpump bolts have been removed, what is the easiest way to get enough clearance to remove the waterpump? Should I use George's method of unbolting the frame member that supports the radiator or removal of the left driven pulley and its camshaft reduction holder?

Left driven pulley and if you do it carefully enough you won't need to replace the oil seal in there.