Clutch replacement

Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Maryville, TN
Bike
1991 ST1100
I'm right at 100K miles. My clutch has been slipping under acceleration for the past 15K and I have the money in hand to replace it. I have not bled the MC and I am using Mobil 1 synthetic, so that probably isn't helping. I plan to continue using Mobil 1, my question is what do I need to replace and are there certain brands to go with or stay away from? I'm assuming plates and springs, what about the basket. I'm mechanically inclined but have never done a clutch.
 

970mike

Mike Brown
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First thing I would do before replacing the clutch would be to change the oil to a motorcycle friendly oil and bleed the clutch and see if that changes things. Sounds like you are using a energy saving oil which will make the clutch slip.
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
2,211
Location
West Michigan
Bike
'98 ST1100
STOC #
8470
First thing I would do before replacing the clutch would be to change the oil to a motorcycle friendly oil and bleed the clutch and see if that changes things. Sounds like you are using a energy saving oil which will make the clutch slip.
BTW, FYI , etc. Any oil heavier ( even full synthetic ) than 10W-30 will not be labeled "Energy Conserving ". But don't take my word for that - Take a look at the labels on varoius weight oils ( mineral , semi-syn, and full syn ) the next time you are in an auto parts store or Walmart. Many riders on this forum use 10W-40 full synthetic, such as Shell Rotella without a problem with their clutch.
 
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Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
2,211
Location
West Michigan
Bike
'98 ST1100
STOC #
8470
I'm right at 100K miles. My clutch has been slipping under acceleration for the past 15K and I have the money in hand to replace it. I have not bled the MC and I am using Mobil 1 synthetic, so that probably isn't helping. I plan to continue using Mobil 1, my question is what do I need to replace and are there certain brands to go with or stay away from? I'm assuming plates and springs, what about the basket. I'm mechanically inclined but have never done a clutch.
I would also replace the clutch springs with OEM Honda springs. I recall that some have reported problems with some brand of aftermarket springs.
 
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
1,387
Age
72
Location
Grand Junction, Colo.
Bike
92 ST1100
IMO, nothing to be gained from using syn. motor oil in these engines.....cept slipping clutches. Vavoline, Castrol(which makes motorcycle specific oil), and a few others that are NOT energy conserving will keep that motor and clutch happy longer miles/use than majority have the bike anyways. I went from 20-40w in my bought new in 81' 1100Yamaha Venturer to the now 20-50w(Vavoline) with no wear or clutch issues for the 34+yrs. of ownership. Same oil/weight is used in my STeed year-round for the past decade+, and I do occassionly have a VERY heavy right hand, with no clutch slipping issues on either bike. Neither bike uses oil between changes. Oil changes are Yamah/2000mi. and STeed/6000mi. JMO, but I'll save the additional 'snake oil' expense for non-necessary farkles:D.
Interestingly enough, both bikes now have 83,500 original mi. on the clock:cool:.
 
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Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
2,211
Location
West Michigan
Bike
'98 ST1100
STOC #
8470
As far as clutch wear is concerned, IMHO riding style and the type of riding ( mostly city or highway ) are the deciding factors, not so much what type of oil is used. No 10W-40 or heavier oils are labeled energy conserving. An oil labeled for " wet clutches " is mostly marketing hype, with a much higher price per quart.

The ST1100 & other water cooled modern MC engines are basically car engines mounted in a motorcycle frame , even though they may have a wet clutch.
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
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British Columbia
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2021 RE Meteor 350
Not to start an oil debate, but Brant is likely correct in saying that any quality dino oil will work fine for as long as most of us keep our rides. However, to imply that nothing can be gained by using synthetic is, I believe, false. Personal experience with the two types of oil used in my final drive has proven, to me, that synthetic oil (in this case synthetic hypoid oil) does make a visible difference in the wear factor.

Using dino hypoid initially in my ST, I found the magnet in the drain bolt was well covered by very, very fine metal particles worn from the ring gears. From the moment I switched to synthetic hypoid, that magnet has nothing collected on it.

The other verifiable benefit to using synthetic oils is its longer life, meaning fewer oil changes, so the added cost of synth is a moot point when you can rely on the oil to hold its "properties" for far longer than dino oil.
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2012
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1,258
Location
Donegal, Ireland.
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Vstrom 650
Davidsilver spares supply a clutch kit around ?75 a mix of oem and aftermarket parts,also get a new gasket for the slave cylinder.well worth doing.
 
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
1,387
Age
72
Location
Grand Junction, Colo.
Bike
92 ST1100
Not to start an oil debate, but Brant is likely correct in saying that any quality dino oil will work fine for as long as most of us keep our rides. However, to imply that nothing can be gained by using synthetic is, I believe, false. Personal experience with the two types of oil used in my final drive has proven, to me, that synthetic oil (in this case synthetic hypoid oil) does make a visible difference in the wear factor.

Using dino hypoid initially in my ST, I found the magnet in the drain bolt was well covered by very, very fine metal particles worn from the ring gears. From the moment I switched to synthetic hypoid, that magnet has nothing collected on it.

The other verifiable benefit to using synthetic oils is its longer life, meaning fewer oil changes, so the added cost of synth is a moot point when you can rely on the oil to hold its "properties" for far longer than dino oil.
I admit, I DO use 75-140w syn. RoyalPurple in final drive of ST and middle and final drive of Yamaha. Reason I started doing that some yrs. back is attributed to a measurable heat reduction of final drive, infa-red temp. camparision test, same 'slab', same distance/speed. Also, the bit of middle and final drive whine the XS11's are notorious for at a constant highway speed was tottally eliminated. What has to be remembered in doing so, is the 75-80 weights of dino EP gear lube tranfers to 75-140w syn. versions of diff. lube;). Less heat=less wear, as Bush stated.:)

Back to original jest of thread, dino or syn. just becomes a personnel choice. If you like to have an occasssional 'heavy' right hand with some redline/rev limiter upshifts along with some thrown in twisties, the clutch disc material isn't going to play well with synthetic OR dino oils with 'modifiers'. I would imagine for those who just ride A to B...on to C, ect., touring, crusin', whatever, syn. motor fits the bill:).
 
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