Help! Smoke!!

John OoSTerhuis said:

Steve, it only takes a few minutes to check the radiator. Do you have tupperwarephobia? . You did knowingly buy a fully faired motorcycle, after all. OK... OK... I'm teasing a bit, but I personally couldn't ride another mile without knowing my whole cooling system was right.

Just say'n...

John

Click to expand...

+1!........overflow tank level is irrelavent at this point, specially if the overflow hose has an unseen split near the top where it attaches to fill neck. Coolant can 'puke' out into tank, but not get drawn back in if there's a split in hose. Seriously, if coolant level in system itself is low, gauge and fan WILL still be a bit erratic. If overflow hose is good with no splits, it will eventually get pulled back in system...maybe. Not my choice though. Cooling system on motor actually full and staying at a more constant temperature and NEVER rising above one o'clock, no matter outside conditions will result in improved smoothness, fuel mileage back up in the low 50's on LD rides. Consistantly more even, non fluxuating cyl. temps= a 'happy' motor.

Have had the tupperware off many many times, but I dont have a garage so all my work is done in the parking lot. Whatever I do has to be buttoned up when I get done.... as for checking the coolant, I relied on the service manual and it says to check it at the overflow tank....

There was never an indication of a leak, but the somewhat slow actuation of the fan still is an issue, so next step, next weekend, will be to check the coolant at the radiator itself.

Thanks again guys.

steveboot said:

Have had the tupperware off many many times, but I dont have a garage so all my work is done in the parking lot. Whatever I do has to be buttoned up when I get done.... as for checking the coolant, I relied on the service manual and it says to check it at the overflow tank....

There was never an indication of a leak, but the somewhat slow actuation of the fan still is an issue, so next step, next weekend, will be to check the coolant at the radiator itself.

Thanks again guys.

Click to expand...

Welcome!..........check the overflow hose for a split near the top where it attaches to cap housing. If split near the top, can be cut back, and pulled forward back in place as there is normally enough slack to do this 'fix' once, without replacing the whole length of hose. A split in that hose is a vacuum leak, not allowing coolant to be drawn back into radiator to its full level as system cools after shut-down. Make sure radiator itself is full to the cap sealing lip, overflow hose not split, visible coolant hose connections in that area don't have colored coolant build-up around them, inside of rad. cap rubber seals don't have cracks all around them in the rubber, and final, overflow tank is at correct level, when COLD.
Reporting back your findings is also good future help for others.

Got out this beautiful morning, pulled the tupperware, and sure enough, a spilt in the overflow hose where it connects to the radiator fill neck. Cut it back and reinstalled, added 1.5 pints of coolant at the radiator, and fired her up. Not enough time to leave her apart so I buttoned her back up while she was running. By the time I was putting the seat back on I noticed a nice steady drip of coolant on the pavement.... From what I can see it's not from the overflow hose, which is all I changed. So it appears topping the coolant and fixing the overflow hose has challenged some other part of the coolant system....

Oh yeah, the drip is at the front, directly beneath the radiator.

Now I might suspect the 'bypass hose' (right side of this picture, thermo housing to Water Pipe):



Worst case: the waterpump.

A pint and a half to top off the radiator is a LOT!

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

Now I might suspect the 'bypass hose'

Click to expand...

Indeed...
The w/pump is still not off the hook, but that would only be a small seepage, while cold not more then a teaspoon underneath the front of the engine, no drips by the time it has warmed as it evaporates before hitting the ground...

A pint and a half to top off the radiator is a LOT!

Click to expand...

Yep, such low coolant levels already bear a risk for blowing the head gaskets...

If I'm lucky later this evening I'll get a chance to pull the tupperware off again to get a better look. With everything on it looks like there is coolant seeping through the radiator fins (wet green fluid spot on the fins- front right lower - the view from the back is obstructed by the frame). The radiator is angled back at this point so it doesn't look like it can be a direct drip on that spot.

steveboot said:

looks like there is coolant seeping through the radiator fins

Click to expand...

Large upper radiator hose at either the thermo housing or the radiator unput tube? Cold/heat cycles and a clamp that now needs tightening? BTDT x 3 (and currently). The 'smoke' symptom doesn't quite fit that but hey, it's a simple check...

There are 3 hoses on the t-stat housing, make sure the clamps are tight on all of them, its right above where you're seeing the leak. Also, in post #5 I mentioned the coolant hoses under the carbs, have you ever replaced those? Those two hoses attach to the t-stat housing. If they're old they'll eventually split down the middle and puke out all your coolant and leave you stranded.

steveboot said:

If I'm lucky later this evening I'll get a chance to pull the tupperware off again to get a better look. With everything on it looks like there is coolant seeping through the radiator fins (wet green fluid spot on the fins- front right lower - the view from the back is obstructed by the frame). The radiator is angled back at this point so it doesn't look like it can be a direct drip on that spot.

Click to expand...

...good time to have a CLOSER look at the rubber seals inside rad. cap. Not to sound discouraging, but if hose clampings, cap seal, etc. resolve the problem, now holding expansion pressure, don't be surprised in near future to see coolant drip centerstand area. The coolant elbows/o-rings would be leaks source if both haven't been previously replaced, at which time carb boots would need to be replaced also.

For the time being, the clamp on the main radiator hose where it goes into the radiator was just loose enough to allow it to drip. Tightened it up and the drip stopped.

So, for the time being, she is drip free and holding.

And later this Spring I'll get the full compliment of hoses and replace them wholesale.

Thanks guys; I appreciate all the help.

steveboot said:

So, for the time being, she is drip free and holding.

Click to expand...

So another issue solved...

For peace of mind I'd keep an full inspection/overhaul of the entire cooling system (many threads with how to instructions) on the list...