What kind of oil?

I know this has probably been asked a gazillion times but when I do a search on oil I get nothing. Odd . . .

Anyway, the shop manual I have for my 92 ST1100 says that the Recommended engine oil is "Honda 4-stroke oil or equivalent SAE 10W-40 SF or SG".

Sounds like regular ole engine oil. I typicall use the Walmart $12/5qts stuff. What do you guys use/recommend?

And then how about the forks? Manual says "Pro Honda Suspension Fluid." Sounds pricey. Again, what do you guys use/recommend?

For the engine 10-40 in your preference of brand.....just make sure it doesn't say "energy conserving" as the additives may make your clutch slip.

A lot of people use Shell Rotella T6 and I change it once a season.

be prepared for as many recommendations as there are oils, then try to sort it all out. Some folks prefer the motorcycle-specific motor oils, some just use automotive synthetics like Mobil 1, etc. The only real guideline is to NOT use the oils marked 'energy conserving' on the container, those can cause wet clutch slippage and should be avoided. If you stick with a 10w-40 or higher then those usually don't have the energy conserving rating, but double check the 'seal' on the label to make sure. With a wet clutch you're also probably better off with a synthetic, as the transmission gears can shear the molecules of the cheaper dino oils pretty quickly.

For fork oil I've never been all that particular, I've used whatever was on the shelf in the weight I needed.

Good enough. I already know all about the numerous recommendations. Been through it with my 83 Magna. Just wanted to clarify.

Thanks guys.

Completely agree, non-conserving oil which matches the temperature chart areas in the Owners Manual for your riding temps.

Fork oil... The Honda oil, I have been told, is about a 5 weight, I use a 50/50 combination of 15wt and 10wt with my HyperPro springs. I didn't like HP's recommended and went through a bit of fork oil to decide on the 50/50. I do admit I really like a firm feel on my front end...

HTH,
Mark

I like to use the Mobile 1 ... 15w-50 ... good luck finding the 5 QUART jugs at Wal-Mart this time of year.

Former diesel oil user, I suggest using the recommended JASO MA2 spec. Shifts much better.

I use the photo below as a guideline.
I've used the best and the ho hum ones.
Currently using Delvac 1300 10W-30
The 2008 ST1300 owner manual recommends 10W-30.
Never really noticed a difference in all the different oils I've used.
When I drain these oils out at 6,000 - 8,000 miles, they still look squeaky clean.
These oils are called HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oils)
Head over to the web page on the bottom of the photo for more info.
I can't attach PDF's on here.
Or PM me and I can send you the report.

DsrtRngr said:

Former diesel oil user, I suggest using the recommended JASO MA2 spec. Shifts much better.

Click to expand...

What does that mean?

qman said:

I know this has probably been asked a gazillion times but when I do a search on oil I get nothing. Odd . . .

Anyway, the shop manual I have for my 92 ST1100 says that the Recommended engine oil is "Honda 4-stroke oil or equivalent SAE 10W-40 SF or SG".

Sounds like regular ole engine oil. I typicall use the Walmart $12/5qts stuff. What do you guys use/recommend?

And then how about the forks? Manual says "Pro Honda Suspension Fluid." Sounds pricey. Again, what do you guys use/recommend?

Click to expand...

Oil threads are.........well, U already know I'm sure. Both my bikes treat themselves to 20-50w Vavoline conventional oil, year round, and the Yammy XS1100 Venturer has had 20-50w coventional(20-40w 'back in the day') from its conception. Nothin' special in either bike......keeps it simple for availability, and never been an issue.

Al Gully said:

I use the photo below as a guideline.
I've used the best and the ho hum ones.
Currently using Delvac 1300 10W-30
The 2008 ST1300 owner manual recommends 10W-30.
Never really noticed a difference in all the different oils I've used.
When I drain these oils out at 6,000 - 8,000 miles, they still look squeaky clean.
These oils are called HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oils)
Head over to the web page on the bottom of the photo for more info.
I can't attach PDF's on here.
Or PM me and I can send you the report.

Click to expand...

Good chart. I have seen that before somewhere and I remember the guy is actually an authority on oils !!

BTW, There are no 10W-40 oils that are "energy conserving" - check the labels to convince yourself, don't take my word for it.

Jim Van said:

There are no 10W-40 oils that are "energy conserving"

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I disagree. I recently was looking around for regular (not synthetic) 10W30 that was not labeled energy conserving and couldn't find any. I also couldn't find any in 10W40. Only the 10W40 oils labeled as the high mileage type were not energy conserving. I didn't want those either because of the extra additives they have in them. I got fed up looking and ended up buying oil at a Honda dealer because what they sell is not rated as energy conserving.

Andrew Shadow said:

I disagree. I recently was looking around for regular (not synthetic) 10W30 that was not labeled energy conserving and couldn't find any. I also couldn't find any in 10W40. Only the 10W40 oils labeled as the high mileage type were not energy conserving. I didn't want those either because of the extra additives they have in them. I got fed up looking and ended up buying oil at a Honda dealer because what they sell is not rated as energy conserving.

Click to expand...

FWIW, the Mobil 1 0w-40 is not energy conserving, and not 'high mileage'. If you're only running it in summertime temps 15w-50 is another option. Although I see you were looking for non-synthetic oil originally, so maybe these aren't of interest to you, but may be to someone else.

qman said:

What does that mean?

Click to expand...

Some find diesel oil (to most that's rotella t6) a little notchy shifting after a few thousand miles. Note it is a JASO MA rated oil.
Some ma mb ma1 ma2 history and unique concerns of combined engine transmission wet clutch duty info here

At the end of riding season, usually in late October (Ontario, Canada), I drain and fill with 5w30 plain Jane conventional oil. Change the oil filter. No additives in the oil. I drive for 10 minutes before mothballing for the winter. After winter storage, I will drive the first couple of months of the following season with this oil and then change to 10w40 plain Jane oil as the heavier weight gives more than adequate protection in the hotter riding months. In September I will change to the thinner 5w30 oil simply for improved circulation at start-up in cooler weather. In late October I'll change to fresh 5w30 oil, along with a filter. Store for winter...the process repeats.

Cod liver oil. If you cannot find that put up in 5 quart bottles, you can use shark liver oil.

Andrew Shadow said:

I disagree. I recently was looking around for regular (not synthetic) 10W30 that was not labeled energy conserving and couldn't find any. I also couldn't find any in 10W40. Only the 10W40 oils labeled as the high mileage type were not energy conserving. I didn't want those either because of the extra additives they have in them. I got fed up looking and ended up buying oil at a Honda dealer because what they sell is not rated as energy conserving.

Click to expand...

Please tell me the make/type of 10W-40 oil that you found that was "Energy Conserving". Just one will suffice. Thanks.

Brant said:

Oil threads are.........well, U already know I'm sure. Both my bikes treat themselves to 20-50w Vavoline conventional oil, year round, and the Yammy XS1100 Venturer has had 20-50w coventional(20-40w 'back in the day') from its conception. Nothin' special in either bike......keeps it simple for availability, and never been an issue.

Click to expand...

BTW, bikes are garaged with those temps never lower than 60degrees, so outside, below freezing temps become less a factor........even more so, the more I age. Even original owners manual agrees.

Johnny Canuck said:

At the end of riding season, usually in late October (Ontario, Canada), I drain and fill with 5w30 plain Jane conventional oil. Change the oil filter. No additives in the oil. I drive for 10 minutes before mothballing for the winter. After winter storage, I will drive the first couple of months of the following season with this oil and then change to 10w40 plain Jane oil as the heavier weight gives more than adequate protection in the hotter riding months. In September I will change to the thinner 5w30 oil simply for improved circulation at start-up in cooler weather. In late October I'll change to fresh 5w30 oil, along with a filter. Store for winter...the process repeats.

Click to expand...

This thread is good stuff for the crowd!

So, if I read it correctly, you are changing the oil three times each year and the filter once, before winter. Nothing wrong with that, but I'll bet that costs more than using one of the best synthetics and changing it once a year at winter, along with the filter. Amsoil 10W-40 - good for 25,000 MILES, or one year.