Remove motor or not

I have a 91 st1100 with 107k that I was trying to sell but am having no luck as people are being scared off by the miles so I have decided to just fix it up and ride it for atleast another season. I need to do a timing belt, the valve covers are leaking, the generator is leaking, coolant just started leaking from one of the hoses, and I want to service the carbs. I know the swing arm needs to be removed to remove the generator so would it just be easier to remove the engine completely and do all the work while it's out? I am an auto technitian by day so I am not afraid of going in deep just dont want to make more work for myself than necessary.

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Short answer: no. Leave the engine in. IMHO

Good luck getting that classic ST roadworthy!

Regards, John
via iPhone 4S

John OoSTerhuis said:

Short answer: no. Leave the engine in. IMHO

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Ditto!
Removing fuel-tank and swing-arm will give more then sufficient clearance to replace stator and alternator-drive if needed... having access to a lift-platform eases working on a motorcycle however...
Unless it was heavily abused I can't think of any reason the engine would need a rebuild...
My mech did 200.000km/125.000miles on his first ST and, as common with most motorcycle engines, "believed" that a full overhaul might be good... what a disappointment over a totally unnecessary task... literally everything was fully within specs...

Not looking to "overhaul" the engine just replace the leaking seals everywhere and do a timing belt. Didn't know if it would make my life easier to just pull the engine.

On a side note, the repair manual stated that the oil pan needs to be removed to remove the generator drive assy. Is this correct or can it be removed with the oil pan still in place?

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Kingrich09 said:

Not looking to "overhaul" the engine just replace the leaking seals everywhere and do a timing belt. Didn't know if it would make my life easier to just pull the engine.

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Remove front callipers, front wheel, front fender, both forks, drain coolant and remove radiator... full access to t/belt, pulleys and water pump... (do not remove clutch cover, just pry the centre plastic lid out underneath, and "modify" the small edge with the Dr.Emel or a carpet-knive...)
Remove tank, swing-arm... full access to alternator... lift carbs, full access to all other coolant lines in possible need of care (watch for the elbows and O-rings of the internal passages on the heads...)

On a side note, the repair manual stated that the oil pan needs to be removed to remove the generator drive assy. Is this correct or can it be removed with the oil pan still in place?

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Seek for "Lewi's Pin" in the forum...
The gears driving the alternator are pre-loaded (like the front-wheels on the cams) to eliminate slag and noise; the alternator drive can be twisted in without any extra measures, with some risk of cutting/kinking the O-ring on the base... with the Lewi's Pin inserted, it can be slipped in straight/fully parallel to the bore in the case...
Anything else can be accessed from the outside, remove seat, side covers, false tank, both access covers, the grey infill's (the ones with the "glove compartments") and the grey belly-pan and you can access all and everything on the engine, including shifter linkage, etc...
The ST is fairly easy to work on.

And: I'd get an OEM workshop manual for it, lots of essential info, torque No, etc...

I do have a factory service manual thankfully.

I will have to do some searching on the lewis pin and see what I need to do there.

I guess the next thing is to see if any of my local friends have a bike lift I can steal for a few weeks.

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Kingrich09 said:

I will have to do some searching on the lewis pin and see what I need to do there.

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No "rocket sience", a piece of 6mm rod with a steel-cable attached...
The named pre-loaded sprockets have a 6mm bore by which you can pre-load the springs to aligning the tooting, easing inserting the alternator drive...
Once that's in, you simply pull the pin out the oil-drain bore (given that you'd routed it out there prior installing the alternator drive ;-) )

I guess the next thing is to see if any of my local friends have a bike lift I can steal for a few weeks.

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Its a big help, preventing back ache and sore knees... ;-)

Rich, the Lewis-Pin is simply a 6mm pin with a wire attached that can be jerked out and withdrawn out through the engine oil drain plug. It is only needed to hold the split gears aligned when installing the Alternator Shaft Assembly. If your 'generator' oil leak is from the potted seal where the three yellow AC leads exit the Stator, or from the o-ring that seals the Stator to the Alt Shaft Assy, you won't need the Lewis-Pin as the Alt Shaft Assy will remain in situ.

If the oil leak is where the wires exit the Stator, there is a thread here on the site describing how a member sealed that spot. He's the only one I've heard of that's actually done that successfully. Sorry, don't have the link.

HTH

Edit: I now see that my friend Martin posted while I was composing this post.

John [fellow 91 owner]
via iPhone 4S

I did see the thread about sealing where the wires exit the stator. I'm pretty sure thats not where mine is leaking but will know a lot more once the bike is torn down.

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You might think about the 40Amp upgrade if you are fooling with the alternator.

I am having a hard time justifying putting any money into the bike as I really dont like it. I just figure it will be worth more and sell easier after all the repairs are done. The bike has no electrical accessories at the moment so I think the stock generator is adequate.

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I understand that if you don't like it. But I doubt that you will get your money back out of it at any rate, given the age and the mileage, though they are not a real problem for the ST1100s. People tend to shy away from one with over 100,000 on the clock unless they are really familiar with the ST1100. That's one of the reasons I have three (besides the fact I really like mine) - the mileage on them determines I wouldn't get much for them anyway. ;-) I've got garage space, so I just keep riding them.

Not looking to make a huge profit but I don't think $2500 is out of the question with all this work being done and a new set of seekers.

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I would think that the bike is worth that if in decent shape mechanically and appearance wise. Good luck with your project.

As John O stated earlier, you may not need to pull the alternator shaft assembly, if it is the stator o-ring that is leaking. That is where my '95 had been leaking. Three 6mm bolts and the stator is off, but two of mine were seized in tight and sheared off, resulting in me having to pull the shaft assembly out anyway to get the broken bolts out. Hope you don't have to go there!

Kingrich09 said:

I am having a hard time justifying putting any money into the bike as I really dont like it. I just figure it will be worth more and sell easier after all the repairs are done. The bike has no electrical accessories at the moment so I think the stock generator is adequate.

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If you really don't like the bike, just sell it ( cheap ) or part it out. Not worth your time/trouble considering the small marginal increase in selling price, IMHO. But, If it didn't have the leaks, 100K miles isn't that many for a ST1100. In 2013 there was a ST1100 that finished the Iron Butt rally that had over 225K miles on it.

I am in the same boat as you with regards to selling a bike with miles. My '06 ST1300 has a bit over 120k miles and although it runs like new, it has it's age related issues, mainly that the plastic is pretty scuffed, lots of scratches, and I have added accessories that many people probably wouldn't want. In short, I debated selling it when I buy a new Super Tenere, but my guess is that my bike wouldn't sell for over $1500, probably closer to $1000 because of the miles. Because of that, I'll keep it as a second bike until it dies. I won't invest any great amount of money in it- but will enjoy it until it costs too much to make it worth fixing.

Good luck with your sale.

Hmmm.... You don't like the ST, and apparently don't really want to maintain or work on it, and only post here to ask the community the quickest/easiest way to fix it up in order to sell it....

A prospective buyer that's knowledgeable about ST1100s, especially a 24 y/o high mileage one, would rather you reduce the asking price by at least the amount of all the parts necessary to return it to long-term serviceability/reliability and do the restore himself. This would definitely include the parts to replace the ticking time bomb 28amp alt with a 40amper ($$$). Before buying though, I'd want close up, high res photos of the final drive and driven flange splines ($$$$), and the rear wheel hub/dampers ($$). A full maintenance history would be nice too.

What would you take for it as is? $1K?
Edit: Oh yeah, is your '91 in Sparkling Silver Metallic, or common black?

JMHO

John

Jim Van said:

.... In 2013 there was a ST1100 that finished the Iron Butt rally that had over 225K miles on it.

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Alex Schmitt ("sportourer"), STOC 4028, started the 2013 IBR with 342K statute miles on his '98 ST1100. He's put many more on since then. Only member with the 350K mileage award.
Edit: on 18 August last year Alex passed 375,000 miles!

I see a couple of folks posted while I was thumbing my last post.

John
via iPhone 4S

I have it listed locally on craigslist for $1500. And it is not MY lack of maintenance that has led to its present condition.

I bought it last July and have personally only put less than 1k on it. I bought it as something cheap to ride as I was without a bike at the time (sold my harley to put down payment on house) and I was planning on fixing it up.

As far as not liking the bike it has alot to do with riding 2 up .I am a large guy and my wife isnt the smallest either so it is quite cramped (corbin seat with flip up backrest). Plus it just doesnt make enough noise lol.

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