Fuel leak when the engine is running only?

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I see there so many elbows and o-rings... :-(
Could you please put a link and/or image of the elbows and o-rings you're referring to? Thanks.
You need to go to an online parts web site - eg. Partzilla - and search through various "fiches", which are the blow up pictures of various ST components, all with the little numbers indicating the parts involved. If you have the carbs out now, by having a good look in that space, you should be able to identify whatever parts you think you need from those fiche pictures. The elbows, o-rings and hoses are under the cylinder head fiche. Once you look around the various fiche headings, you will find everything you may need for your bike.

This will save you, and everybody here, a lot of time going back and forth with the posts. Not that we aren't here to assist in some decisions, or advice, but learning how to use those fiches is mainly for your own benefit.

Yes, you could use a bit of foam filter from a lawnmower, but you'd likely have to go out and buy that too, so you might as well, for the little it costs for OEM, buy it along with whatever other parts you need to order.

Just a suggestion, because it sounds like you are heading into expensive territory asking a shop to rebuild your carbs, which may not be necessary. Maybe you should PM (private message) to John O. and see when and if he could make a trip to assist you.
 
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Reading this thread it seems as if you're going " full speed ahead", without actually knowing were this leak is coming from. Throwing parts at a problem is a real energy burn ( not to mention money) .... As others have hinted- ellimate any possibility of the leak coming from easy to find/fix areas before removing on to the carb set. With the plastics off and a strong flashlight find dripping gas and the work your way back to the source . once found you'll do a forehead slap, at that time you'll as so know what the fix is! IF you do or already have removed the carbs, do replace the boots as they have been on the bike , and have probably exceeded their useful life. Maintain focus on this leak . while working on it make a mental note of parts, you'd like to replace and address 'em when you have the time, latter.
 
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Afan

Afan

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Joined
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Urbandale, IA
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1998 ST1100
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8832
You need to go to an online parts web site - eg. Partzilla - and search through various "fiches", which are the blow up pictures of various ST components, all with the little numbers indicating the parts involved. If you have the carbs out now, by having a good look in that space, you should be able to identify whatever parts you think you need from those fiche pictures. The elbows, o-rings and hoses are under the cylinder head fiche. Once you look around the various fiche headings, you will find everything you may need for your bike.

This will save you, and everybody here, a lot of time going back and forth with the posts. Not that we aren't here to assist in some decisions, or advice, but learning how to use those fiches is mainly for your own benefit.
Believe me, that's what am I doing for the whole last week. But, to an inexperienced eye it's hard to figure it out. So I have to wait for the friend of mine to tell me.
 
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Afan

Afan

... and this is my real name.
Joined
Jun 2, 2014
Messages
521
Location
Urbandale, IA
Bike
1998 ST1100
STOC #
8832
Reading this thread it seems as if you're going " full speed ahead", without actually knowing were this leak is coming from. Throwing parts at a problem is a real energy burn ( not to mention money) .... As others have hinted- ellimate any possibility of the leak coming from easy to find/fix areas before removing on to the carb set. With the plastics off and a strong flashlight find dripping gas and the work your way back to the source . once found you'll do a forehead slap, at that time you'll as so know what the fix is! IF you do or already have removed the carbs, do replace the boots as they have been on the bike , and have probably exceeded their useful life. Maintain focus on this leak . while working on it make a mental note of parts, you'd like to replace and address 'em when you have the time, latter.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, friend of mine couldn't find the source of the leak after the plastic is removed, so we took off the carb set. Then he was looking around and he found that the leak is caused by worn rubber gasket on the float bowl. So, I ordered new set and waiting to install it. And hope he was right. :)
 
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Afan

Afan

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8832
Soooo.... My bike is fixed. Looks good. Rides even better. Already had a little bit over 400 miles on it.
But... I was always able to go twice to work (120 miles back and forth) before I hit reserve and now I can't. Tested only once though (the same gas station, the same pump) but instead 48 mpg now 40 mpg. With new air-filter and some other new parts, shouldn't be kinda opposite, better gas mileage? Or the friend of mine messed up something on carbs?
 

John OoSTerhuis

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So... the definitive source of the fuel leak was one float bowl o-ring/gasket??

As to your drop in mpg, you might want to record a few more tankfulls before jumping to conclusions. However, what adjustments, if any, did your mechanic friend make to the carbs? Pilot screws? Idle drop procedure? Carb sync? Does your friend have an opinion on this?

John
via iPhone 6
 
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Soooo.... My bike is fixed. Looks good. Rides even better. Already had a little bit over 400 miles on it.
But... I was always able to go twice to work (120 miles back and forth) before I hit reserve and now I can't. Tested only once though (the same gas station, the same pump) but instead 48 mpg now 40 mpg. With new air-filter and some other new parts, shouldn't be kinda opposite, better gas mileage? Or the friend of mine messed up something on carbs?
Has anything changed with the rotation of your right hand since being back on the road ??
 
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Afan

Afan

... and this is my real name.
Joined
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521
Location
Urbandale, IA
Bike
1998 ST1100
STOC #
8832
So... the definitive source of the fuel leak was one float bowl o-ring/gasket??
Looks like. He said so. Nothing else is changed (except air-filter, sub-filter, insulators what I found it can't be the reason for the leak, right?)

As to your drop in mpg, you might want to record a few more tankfulls before jumping to conclusions.
Agree. :)

However, what adjustments, if any, did your mechanic friend make to the carbs? Pilot screws? Idle drop procedure? Carb sync? Does your friend have an opinion on this?
John
via iPhone 6
He opened the part with vacuum piston, rubber membrane, needle, floats... and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I don't remember he mentioned ever "pilot screws", jets, carb sync when he was telling me what he was doing? Although, once we assembled the bike, the idle dropped so I had to "adjust" with that long screw next to fuel opening. When you mentioned it, now it's not so "smooth" when you firing up, choke and reaching 1100. It would reach 1100 RPM much quicker than now. And now the idle, after 10-20 minutes, is 1000, or 1100, or 1200... ?!?!?
 
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Afan

Afan

... and this is my real name.
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Urbandale, IA
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1998 ST1100
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8832
Has anything changed with the rotation of your right hand since being back on the road ??
If you mean if I'm more agile and tough with the throttle - no. I'm not aggressive rider. Trying to keep my RPMs as low as possible. 2-3K up to 50mph in the city and around, 4K-5K 75-85 mph on interstate. I don't know why but the sound of the engine on RPM 6K and more sounds to my like the engine is suffering... :D

Although, the throttle, after we put all back together, looks like it's a little bit more tight?
 
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I would imagine your existing issues ARE gonna continue unless CORRECT idle fuel mixtures were RE-set, re-sync carbs, double check/set mixtures and re-sync again.
BTW, carb bank off, were intake boots replaced? If not......oooppps!
 
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