The latest tire change technology

Mark said:

'bouncing' the front wheel.

Click to expand...

The ST1300 manual say's to bounce it.

I thought so...

I would highly recommend 'the bounce' to all those who change their own tires...

And if your tire changing mechanic doesn't know it I'd make sure he learned it!

I just changed my tires using this technique. Had just bought a HF tire changer and the post does not fit, too large. so I thought I'd give it a shot. I did use the tire changer to hold the tire. After figuring out how to slip the straps around the tires, a shot of WD40, the tire was off in 5 minutes. This morning , I warmed up the tire using a light bulb and covering the tires with blankets. Because I was using balancing beads, I didn't want to use too much lubricant, I used WD40. It took a bit of effort to get the tires on, but, not too much. If I was going balance using weights, I'd use the water and dish soap.
What I like abut this process, the chance of scratching the rims is pretty much eliminated.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What type of tires did you put on using this technique?

Pilot road 4 Gt

I have a HF tire changer with Mojo blocks/bar and it was difficult to mount tires until I watched a Youtube video that used a homemade tire changer built out of 2x4's. Rather then using zip ties or clamps, he inserted small blacks of wood ( approx. 3/4" x 1" x 2") between the edge of the rim and the tire bead. The blocks of wood keep the tire bead in the center channel of the rim and off the bead seat. The blocks of woods are essentially "bead buddies" except they don't cost $10 a piece.

And while you at it, go buy some good tire snot such as RuGlyde from Napa Auto. It's money well spent.

I have been changing MC tires for years and will definitely try this next time, it can't hurt anything. You can even re-use the zip ties for something else if you cut them correctly.

Getting the old tire off is another story. My friend's Hyper needed a new rear and she bought a BT016 to replace the one on there, that I had put on about two years ago, with great difficulty. Using every cheat technique I knew - heat, lube, center channel, blocks, whatever, it refused to come off. I broke the tip off my Wicko tire bar trying to do this. I ended up using a cutoff wheel to cut the bead. The wheel was a 17" Marazocci with a shallow center channel. The new tire went on OK, with quite a bit of effort.

Lesson learned - I will never, ever, touch another Marazocci wheel to mount or dismount a Bridgestone tire. I am gonna leave that up to the shop with a power changer. My Monster's wheels do not require near that much effort. Bridgestone radials are great tires, but they are terrible to mount/dismount with a manual changer.

st1300r said:

I used that trick on a pr3 rear. Worked fine with a 12v compressor I keep in my truck. I kept the cam on the ground and straddled the tire. Sat on the tire and bounced a little and it popped right on. Kept the cam down just because I had visions of the strap failing and turning it into a missile.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the hint; worked well. My PR4 tire slipped right on using the Zip ties.

I had put the Ariete type valve on, but the core was bad and it would loose air at about 1 lb per 2 hrs. So I had to repeat taking the tire apart and putting on a Bike Master 90 degree valve. The tire still leaked about 1.5 lb per day so I broke the bead and painted that rubber cement for sealing tires around the bead. It's held the same pressure for 3 days now.

Pic putting the tire on:

I picked up some 24" zip-ties from HF that I will use on my next tire change, which shouldn't be for a bit but now I'm ready.

I watched a YouTube vid where a guy REMOVED the tire with zip-ties and also installed the new tire using the zip-tie method. Looked like it worked out pretty good.

For me the removal, especially the "second" bead is the hardest part and the only time I have scratched my rim... my fault all the way cuz I was getting pissed it wasn't coming off so I man-handled it and didn't take my time. Next time I am going to try the zip-ties for the removal for sure.

Tried it on my last rear BT020 Bias BMW - no luck on compressing it with zip ties ...

Tried it on a gt4 rear and I couldn't get the old 3 off or the new 4 on.. Wasn't even close

v8-7 said:

Tried it on a gt4 rear and I couldn't get the old 3 off or the new 4 on.. Wasn't even close

Click to expand...

I guess we both must be missing something. I can see it working for fronts but rears seem to be more 'problematic'.

Uncle Phil said:

I can see it working for fronts but rears seem to be more 'problematic'.

Click to expand...

I changed the rear with the zip ties on my ST1300, not sure how different the ST1100 rear rim is. Had to squeeze the beads together about 1 1/2 inches apart by hand then tighten the zip ties. When you get all (8) the zip ties on you can squeeze the beads even closer together; they reinforce each other. The process seems to keep both beads in the curved center of the rim making slipping the tire on and off easier. To get it off I had to lever it. While doing so my tire lever cut though the garden hose rim protector and scratched the rim a tiny bit.

Reginald - What rear did you install?

Uncle Phil said:

Reginald - What rear did you install?

Click to expand...

I removed a Battleax BTO 20 and replaced it with a PR4 GT on the rear. Getting the old tire off was more difficult than putting the new one on. I just walked the new one on (see picture in earlier post), I figured the rim was strong enough for me to press the tire on with my weight. It slipped right on. When I had to remove the PR4 a second time because of the bad valve and core it was easier than the Battleax. I guess because it hadn't conformed to the rim and it was better lubricated, but still had to lever the last inner bead bit off. Never had to use a lever to put it on though.

I find the BT020 BMW Bias (there is a radial version, IIRC) is a real beast to get on and off for me - using lube, 'helping hands', blocks, levers, sweat,.... What size of zip ties did you use - width and length?

Uncle Phil said:

I find the BT020 BMW Bias (there is a radial version, IIRC) is a real beast to get on and off for me - using lube, 'helping hands', blocks, levers, sweat,.... What size of zip ties did you use - width and length?

Click to expand...

Yeh, I always learn the hard way.

I used two 14" zip ties from O'Reilly Auto Parts to cover the circumference of the tire. Width about 1/8". If I got any lube on a zip tie it wouldn't hold, so be careful to keep them dry, hands clean. Harbor Freight has 21" ties; however, I didn't want to make the 17 mile drive.

Four day's now and no loss of air. Wow! I was able to really clean the rim bead with steel wool and applied that rubber cement to the tire bead for the best seal I've ever had on a MC rear tire.

I think I'll have the shop remove the tires for $15 and I'll mount them from now on. I get a better seal than the shop. The shop doesn't scratch the rim removing them.

Thanks - That's about what I tried on the BT020 - I guess I'll give it another shot the next time. I use tire lube on mine and seem to always get a good seal. But then I have a pretty good air compressor and really pump them up til they 'pop' on to the rim. ;-)

I fought & fought with getting off/on the BT020's using my No-Mar on a previous change - no more Bridgestone's ever for me. I went to Michelin PR's and will never go back. I just put a new PR4 rear on in under 20 minutes, including cleaning everything, re-greasing and balancing. And I'm anal and take my time. I can see the zip ties working for soft rubber, but never on a Bridgestone. I've even noticed that the Michelin's are significantly easier to get onto my bicycle rims. $60 for a bicycle tire anyone?

Howard - That has been my 'experience' also, but I need the mileage on the rear for long trips. The BT020s will sure make you question why you are doing your own tire changes ... ;-)