No resistance with clutch

Me thoughts exactly. That's why I like riding with other people just in case something were to happen

Keep an eye on your brakes. As easy as the clutch is to do, I'd be curious is they got the more complicated brake system bled properly. Maybe they did and all is good, just let them know if not.

Joe, luckily I didn't need the brakes done. Had it flushed about 3 months ago. I'll keep an eye on everything at this point!

My bad, was thinking you said they did both, but not the case, good...

Most likely the dealership didn't tighten the bleed screw enough and over time and use air entered the system.

When we took the cover off to access the bleed screw, it was snug. You may be right though, may have to add Teflon tape if this happens again.

velocityflier16 said:

When we took the cover off to access the bleed screw, it was snug. You may be right though, may have to add Teflon tape if this happens again.

Click to expand...

The "seal" is made at the bottom point of the bleed nipple not on the threads. Teflon tape on the threads won't do anything. Google brake bleed nipple images.

Wow glad it was an easy fix and you got the bike back on the road. Now get out and enjoy it!!

Just a quick and final update for everyone. I took it back for a final inspection this morning. My clutch was getting spongy again. One of the technicians came over to the waiting room to talk to me and said they called Honda and Honda said that numerous people have reported on their 1300/A/PA and Goldwing models that there can be a small film lining buildup of old DOT 4 fluid that can possibly dislodge and get caught in the slave cylinder causing air bubbles which leads to no clutch. They recommended changing and flushing fluid more frequently than the recommended 2 years.

I just wanted to pass that along to everyone out there that has had this issue. It's not a very serious issue, it's just more of an inconvenience.

That's good info. Thanks for sharing it.

--Mark

Found the culprit. Replaced and clutch feels like new. Also found the ground wire that kept resetting the trip odometer and time. Works great! I got on the interstate for the house and hit a pothole and nearly threw me off the bike. Busted right fork seal. Have to take it back on the 25th to get it fixed. I'm starting to begin to think I shouldn't own a bike.

That sux about the fork seal. :-(
But on the bright side, sounds like maybe you got the clutch and electrical solved.

I figured I'd revive this thread to ask - what is the most likely place for a leak? I have an 04 non ABS and after sitting for 3 weeks I go out this morning to no clutch resistance. I open the reservoir and I find a mostly empty mess. Lots of crud/brown goo at the bottom but very little fluid. Where do I start? I'm starting to feel like the OP - fixed a leaking radiator just lat month.

Clean out resivore and flush with new brake fluid first and see if that fixes the issues.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

970mike said:

Clean out resivore and flush with new brake fluid first and see if that fixes the issues.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

+1

ToddC

If you clean out the reservoir completely, you may get a trapped bubble in the master cylinder which will make it difficult to start pumping fluid..... maybe not, but if so, helps to loosen the banjo fitting at the reservoir to bleed it first, or, use a vacuum at the bleeder nipple. A possible way to avoid all this is to not clean out the reservoir really completely..... leave a touch of old fluid in there while cleaning out the goo, then flush/bleed.

I did not notice any leak when I took off the lower cover to get to the bleeder nipple. I did notice a number of bubbles come up from the fluid inlet hole at the bottom of the reservoir after I filled it. I bled the system and it seems to be working OK, though the engagement point of the clutch is closer to the hand grip than before. We'll see what happens after I let it sit for a few days.

biker said:

...the engagement point of the clutch is closer to the hand grip than before. We'll see what happens after I let it sit for a few days.

Click to expand...

Read post #19 this thread. If the clutch engagement point has changed, there is a chance that air is still trapped in the return circuit of the master cylinder. Tie something around the clutch lever in order to keep the lever depressed over night. Any air trapped in the return circuit will escape and the engagement point should be farther away from the hand grip.

The bike is performing as normal after 3 weeks - as if nothing happened. Even the clutch engagement point is where it used to be.