I had a honda pacific coast that flat would not run with a k&n filter in it. Their company even told me that they got a lot of complaints with some models of honda's with their filters. I would try replacing the filter back to stock and check the valve clearances.
No Grunt
- Thread starter Neil67
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balancing the carbs should be done every once n awhile.. if outa wack, it'll restore throttle response( I place this first, since it's easy ). also check the valve clearances. and I'd look at the ignition coils, I have heard of cases where the outside Bakelite cracked and damaged the internal windings.. from what I've read , a casual look-see, often misses this type of damage.
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Slydynbye
Will ride for Pie
What does that mean exactly, a stock pump or something else?
Also, on the original list of things you have done, were they before or after the problem started?
I just thought of something,
Have you looked at the little square filter just forward of the main air cleaner?
My suspicion is that if the filter partially crumbled and was sucked into the carb or hoses it might cause this problem.
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hi sorry for the delay work got in the way.
the little filter did break apart and didn't just sit in the pipe it went right into the carbs which is why they were stripped cleaned and finally replaced. the K&N has been on the bike for about 3 years and has been eliminated as part of the problem. also I have now ordered a new set of coils.
also someone suggested that valve clearances may cause this.. they have now been checked and are within tolerance
everything I have tried has been a result of the problem and not done before hence cause the problem
I am very greatful to everyone for their help and advise, this is what I call a community of fellow bike rider/owners
Thankyou to all
Something else that might help determine which cylinder is not up to par with the rest is check the temperature of the exhaust at the head. Find or borrow a heat gun, it will show if one or more of you cylinders are not working properly. If you can't find a heat gun then a small plastic bottle with a hole punched in the top will work. Fill the bottle with water and drip water over each pipe. The water will sizzle off the hot or normal exhaust pipes but the reaction will be less or non-existent on any one that is not firing properly. This will help pin point which coil, wire, carb etc. is causing the issue.
I think you're referring to either an infrared thermometer or laser thermometer, not a heat gun. The sprinkled water on headers is a good idea. I once used a verry cautious finger touch on the header pipes while the engine was warming up from a stone-cold start on my old Cavalcade to try to isolate a weak cylinder. This will work if you cautiously do it almost immediately after starting the engine, as it doesn't take long at all for those pipes on good cylinders to get too hot to touch without burning some flesh on a finger. I can't recommend this method, just saying that it Can be done if one is very wary of what they're doing.
You're right, I did mean an infrared or laser thermometer. That's what happens when I respond too early in the morning.
So any verdict yet on what the issues is/was?
hi guys thank you for all the help and options, after a very lengthy and costly experience I have at last found the problem. and it was one of your suggestions, so thank you. anyway the problem was the link wire between the two coils the vibration had broken a wire to the right hand coil but when tested on tick over it was sparking on all four but as soon as you bring the revs up it would lose contact and only fire on 2. I know a lot don't post the actual cure so I thought I would. again really a big big thank you to you all.
Thanks for posting your cure! Someday someone will have the same problem and your post will probably help them avoid the long and costly journey you made.