Key switch issues

Joined
Feb 11, 2013
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196
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Ketchikan, Alaska
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1984 Shadow 700
Over this last winter my 01 st 1100 has developed an issue with the ket switch. when i turn it into the on position 9/10 times nothing happens. but if I turn it jus slight back towards off it connects... I live in a highly corrosive environment next to the beach. I have alot of issues with electrical connections in all my boats, skis, or motorcycles..heck even in the cars!

so what I guess im asking is, if this is probably just like the other elcetrical connections problems or is this a known issue that happens with time and if so, whats the most likely fix?
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
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superdiver
Joined
Feb 11, 2013
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196
Location
Ketchikan, Alaska
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1984 Shadow 700
Ok. So it's all part and on the bench. I'm at the place where I push the two tabs in and then end should come off. But it doesn't. It has some very small Torx screws holding it on???

should I take those off. It doesn't say to on the write up...
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
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British Columbia
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2021 RE Meteor 350
I had the exact same thing happen on my '95, after 160,000 kms. Tried cleaning the contacts, lubed and re-assembled, but it didn't help.

I suggest you order a new contact base unit, as you don't want this to fail far from home. Mine failed in my garage, luckily.
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
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soCal
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'97 ST1100
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687
I had the exact same thing happen on my '95, after 160,000 kms. Tried cleaning the contacts, lubed and re-assembled, but it didn't help.

I suggest you order a new contact base unit, as you don't want this to fail far from home. Mine failed in my garage, luckily.
Not sure what the Honda switch looks like inside, never had one apart. But years ago on a Yamaha I owned, I took the switch apart and put an extra blob of solder onto the contacts (which were already soldered as I recall, but had worn flat over the years). That gave it a few more years of life.
 
Joined
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Location
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2021 RE Meteor 350
Not sure what the Honda switch looks like inside, never had one apart. But years ago on a Yamaha I owned, I took the switch apart and put an extra blob of solder onto the contacts (which were already soldered as I recall, but had worn flat over the years). That gave it a few more years of life.
The contacts are copper, so you could add a drop of solder, but would you want to trust that to stay put and could you get it just the right size to make the contacts work properly? Better to order the new contact base. Comes with nice new wiring and plug too!
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,066
Location
soCal
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'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
The contacts are copper, so you could add a drop of solder, but would you want to trust that to stay put and could you get it just the right size to make the contacts work properly? Better to order the new contact base. Comes with nice new wiring and plug too!
Yeah, its only around $35, so you're probably right. I seem to recall my repair eventually failed again a few years later because I can still remember my amazement when I was able to buy an AFTERMARKET switch to replace it with. Apparently Yamaha had only used one switch on all their bikes for many years (this was late '90s, early '00s) so some company decided to get into the action and made their own Yamaha replacement ignition switch. It was something like $30 for the entire switch unit. The fact that Honda sells just the internals is a good thing, because you don't have to deal with matching keys for the ignition and other stuff like you do if you change the whole unit.
 

ST1100Y

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I suggest you order a new contact base unit, as you don't want this to fail far from home.
Which *should* be P/N 35101-MAJ-G41 (my fiche source stops at the year 2000, but according to Partzilla it fits all post '96 models):
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-35101-MAJ-G41.html

I do wonder though, a '01 seems pretty young to suffer ignition lock switch-plate issues...
Is the bike parked outside year round?
Do you use pressure wash on it?
 
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