Warm and safe gear on its way have question

Thanks to this forum and its members I was able to save $139 on a set of heated gloves, heated jacket liner, heated pant liner, dual heat control portable with case and clip, extra extension incase I only want to use the gloves.

MY question is on how the stuff gets connected to the bike. I have a stock 2012 St1300 no power sockets. Do I need power sockets to use the gear or do I simply attached a pigtail to the battery and run it up toward the front of my seat and plug in the gear? I have never owned heated gear before or a gps or any other fancy stuff a lot of people have.

I do carry a tire plug kit and an air compressor that someone had suggested on this site but I don't have any way to power the compressor at this time. I have to relegate myself to flagging down a car if needed to use it.

I would like to be self sufficient and have a way to run the compressor off my bike too. Thanks in advance

You have your options for powering the heated gear. I installed the mating lead directly to my battery and plug my gear into that. When I am not riding, I plug my battery tender into the same lead with an adaptor. This method works great and is easy to connect.

Another method is wiring your bike with the Honda Quartet harness, which would allow you to easily install a cigarette plug or similar into your fairing pocket. Then you can plug your gear into that. Plus, you can tap into a switched power lead if you choose, so the gear is powered only when the bike is running.

There are other ways to do this. No really wrong answers. The direct lead on the battery is quick to install and works great.

Good luck.

Joel

Helitronix said:

Another method is wiring your bike with the Honda Quartet harness, which would allow you to easily install a cigarette plug or similar into your fairing pocket. Then you can plug your gear into that. Plus, you can tap into a switched power lead if you choose, so the gear is powered only when the bike is running.

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The quartet harness and lighter socket are not sized for heated gear. The harness is designed for small loads and the socket is wired and fused for 2A. W&S liners draw up to 7.5A depending on which model you have and how far you have it cranked up.

I have Powerlet's dual rear kit on my bike that I use for the gear and as a place to plug in the charger, but the path of least resistance is a fused pigtail wired directly to the battery.

--Mark

I installed a Gerbings panel-mount socket just aft of my starboard side glovebox and wired it in using a relay. Without a relay, you risk running the battery down during those periods when you shut off the engine and your heated gear is still plugged in.

Good to know about the Quartet power limitation.

Joel

Well thanks for the quick replies. Gear should be here today or tomorrow at the latest as it shipped from Portland Oregon. I will connect it to the battery for now and try and figure out another method for charging phone and having a power source to run the air compressor I carry.

The compressor is good sized and Blrfl had done a write up on it here. It's a Pittsburgh

Flatbroke said:

Well thanks for the quick replies. Gear should be here today or tomorrow at the latest as it shipped from Portland Oregon. I will connect it to the battery for now and try and figure out another method for charging phone and having a power source to run the air compressor I carry.

The compressor is good sized and Blrfl had done a write up on it here. It's a Pittsburgh

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Are your connectors SAE or coax? If SAE, go to an auto parts store and buy an in line fuze holder for the (+) side to the female and (-) to the male on the output plug and some SAE trailer plugs and connect directly to battery and ground with 14ga wire. Or you can get fancy with a fuze block and relay. Just run the connector to the left side of the seat. This can also serve as a battery tender lead and accessory outlet for your compressor. Or, you can get real fancy and connect to a switched or unswitched Powerlet female. I have two, one switched and another unswitched that serves as an accessory outlet and battery tender input. There are lots of ways to do this, but use at least 14ga and fuse the (+) lead from the battery according to load. If you run all that gear at the same time on max, you are getting close to 20 amps. You will also be roasting.
If coax, you will need those connectors or an adaptor.

Flatbroke said:

... and having a power source to run the air compressor I carry.

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FWIW, I run my compressor off the same pigtail used for the battery tender ... and always leave the engine running while operating the compressor. Again, too much drain on the battery alone.

jmcarruth said:

Are your connectors SAE or coax? If SAE, go to an auto parts store and buy an in line fuze holder for the (+) side to the female and (-) to the male on the output plug and some SAE trailer plugs and connect directly to battery and ground with 14ga wire. Or you can get fancy with a fuze block and relay. Just run the connector to the left side of the seat. This can also serve as a battery tender lead and accessory outlet for your compressor. Or, you can get real fancy and connect to a switched or unswitched Powerlet female. I have two, one switched and another unswitched that serves as an accessory outlet and battery tender input. There are lots of ways to do this, but use at least 14ga and fuse the (+) lead from the battery according to load. If you run all that gear at the same time on max, you are getting close to 20 amps. You will also be roasting.
If coax, you will need those connectors or an adaptor.

Click to expand...

I am not sure what the connection looks like as I just placed the order from safe and warm day before yesterday. But it is whatever they sell on their website. I appreciate the information and will probably have more questions when it gets here.

You Guys really have a lot of knowledge and I appreciate your sharing of it.

Flatbroke said:

ou Guys really have a lot of knowledge and I appreciate your sharing of it.

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+1 ... is what I also love about this forum. The info-share has been invaluable to me on several occasions. Good luck with your heated gear. Mine (Gerbings) has made cold weather riding so much more enjoyable.

EDIT TO ADD: FWIW, the Gerbings come with coax connectors, but my battery tender pigtail and compressor are two-wire SAE connectors.

There are adapters that go from COAX to SAE available from POWERLET (and I'm sure other sources). I run my heated gear through my BlueSea fuse block, properly fused, and have three cigar sockets on various spots on my ST1100s, some through the fuse block, some directly to the battery (fused) for use when the bike is off.

Flatbroke said:

MY question is on how the stuff gets connected to the bike. I have a stock 2012 St1300 no power sockets. Do I need power sockets to use the gear or do I simply attached a pigtail to the battery and run it up toward the front of my seat and plug in the gear? I have never owned heated gear before or a gps or any other fancy stuff a lot of people have. Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

This coax to battery cable is what will come in your Heat Troller packet. The red ring connector will connect to your positive battery terminal, the black ring connector will connect to the negative battery terminal. The plug with the rubber cap on it is the coax connector. It is the coax plug that you will plug your heated liner into.

Warm n Safes instructions say to only connect the above cable to your battery, and not to anything else. If you connect it to something else, it will void the warranty.

This is the SAE adapter I bought for my W&S gear.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00271ZL9K

packaged arrived today. Can't wait to get home and check the stuff out.

Quick and Dirty could have you wired up in a couple of hours or less. Ride to work warm as toast while you figure out how you want to finalize your install.

Checked the stuff out last night Looks pretty straight forward. Something interesting is and of a big concern is when touching and wearing the gen 4 jacket liner I am repeatedly getting shocked almost every time I touch it and even on my elbows or arm when I move my arm and the jacket was not plugged in to anything.


is this normal? It's like a static shock when you rub a ballon on your head and touch someone after or drag your feet on the carpet and do the same thing. The pant and gloves don't do this

It's static electricity. The liner is probably made of some synthetic that generates a charge. This may be accelerated in very low humidity areas. Try rubbing a fabric softener dryer sheet on the liner. Don't wet it just rub it over the surface and see if the shock is reduced.

You could also attach a grounding strap to it and the frame of the ST.

Dryer sheet should help with the static. They also make antistat sprays for clothes. Foodmarket K mart wally world should have it. A little liquid fabric softener or dish liquid diluted in water and sprayed on would help. Basically just grabbing available moisture from the air to dissipate the charge.

I went with an always on fused pigtail SAE that mates with the battery tender compressor etc off the battery.
The heated gear and all the other toys run off an added cheapo fuse block triggered with a relay off an acc line. All the grounds are tied together with a simple screw terminal block. Minutes of cranked heated gear with the engine off = no start. The dual powerlet mount by the shock works well with a controller clipped to my jacket waste belt. The coax (barrel connector) slips apart without damaging anything when you forget to disconnect when getting off the bike and handles more current.

Note the SAE connector should be wired with the rubber protected prong to the + of the battery. It's mating plug will therefore have the exposed pin hot. This isn't a problem with the battery tender but you can't plug your pig tail into your buddies pigtail if your battery needs some juice. The polarity will be reversed. Some use a powerpole connector for a pigtail to avoid that.

Warm ans safe is working on a jacket replacement. Apparently the shock issue was a problem with their older stock on gen 4 jackets only. The newer stock or their other models don't have this issue. Additionally they are going to send another pair of gloves for me to try as the ones I received are more suited for an offensive or defensive lineman's hands. I need a smaller pair

Warm and safe sent me a new gen 4 jacket and 2 sizes of touring gloves to try. New jacket does not shock me and the size large gloves fit good. Now to ship the other jacket and 2 sets of gloves back. Pretty darn good business and customer service on warm and safes part.