I'm getting ready to install some 2 inch Rox Risers on my ST1100. Currently, all my cables (front brakes, throttle, and clutch) are routed in front of the triple tree. I'm hoping that I won't have to buy new cables/lines. The front brake line is very tight. That will have to be unloosened to install, for sure; however it just might reach. My question is, based on experience, what will I HAVE to detach and move to behind the triple tree? Also, if someone could point me to links for rerouting (detaching and re-attaching the cable lines, if that's going to be necessary, I'd be appreciative. Thank you.
Rox Risers Installation - 2 inch
- Thread starter Dimmer
- Start date
I have a 97 1100. I have 3 inch Rox Risers and Heli-Bars installed, all I needed to do was release the front brake lines from brackets on the forks. Good luck.
I put the 2" Rox risers on as well. Take the brake master cylinder off the bars and re-route the whole thing to the rear of the triple tree. No need to undo any hoses. Clutch hose is moved as well and is secured to the upper left fork tube, with the black plastic retainer with which it was held lower on the fork tube, so it can't snag on the top of the fork tube as the bars are turned. No change in throttle/choke cables. Best done with all plastic removed too, as you see in my picture.
Here's a pic which may make it clearer for you. You may notice I painted everything black, as I wasn't wanting to re-install the Accord-like bar shroud anyway.. I like the look. To cover that steering stem nut, I used the black top off an Amsoil oil bottle, stuck in place with a wad of the handy Dum Dum.
Here's a pic which may make it clearer for you. You may notice I painted everything black, as I wasn't wanting to re-install the Accord-like bar shroud anyway.. I like the look. To cover that steering stem nut, I used the black top off an Amsoil oil bottle, stuck in place with a wad of the handy Dum Dum.
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Excellent pic. I like the blacked out look. Any special paint? I did get the black anodized risers.
I just used some rattle cans that I had on hand, a Plasti-kote grey metal primer and Plasti-kote Rust Not in gloss black. Since I had the entire front end stripped down during the inspection of the new-to-me '96 ST, it was easy to paint the parts up, while off the bike.
The bars already have a greenish coat of primer paint, so I just laid the black on top of that and I used the grey primer on the bare aluminum top fork bridge and associated bar clamp parts. Rather than pull the ignition switch off the bike, I masked the switch and sprayed only the small section that protrudes above the fork bridge.
One thing I discovered in mounting the risers was that with the Rox name facing outwards, the bars did not sit entirely flat within the upper clamps, as the bend in the bars *just* caught that point of where the outer edge of the clamp sat. For that reason, I mounted the risers with the name facing inwards, which gives a much better grip for the clamps. The second pic below shows a bit more detail of the hoses and the risers for you. At this point in the process, I hadn't yet determined that the clutch hose would tend to catch the bridge at the left fork corner, so I removed that clutch hose clamp located on the frame and instead used the black plastic clamp that had been on the front brake hose and clamped the clutch hose to the upper fork tube, as seen in the first photo.
If you do the same dismantling, it is an excellent time to inspect, clean, lube and re-torque the steering head bearings. Mine still had the ball bearings and the races and balls were all in very good condition. As an aside to this, over the many years of much "wobble" and "headshake" teeth gnashing and debate, I have come to believe that the vast majority of those issues would never have surfaced if every new ST1100 was properly serviced at its first Honda mandated service interval, which specified a re-torquing of the steering head bearings. Being a bit of a tear down expense, I doubt that service was performed on many ST's early in their life.
The bars already have a greenish coat of primer paint, so I just laid the black on top of that and I used the grey primer on the bare aluminum top fork bridge and associated bar clamp parts. Rather than pull the ignition switch off the bike, I masked the switch and sprayed only the small section that protrudes above the fork bridge.
One thing I discovered in mounting the risers was that with the Rox name facing outwards, the bars did not sit entirely flat within the upper clamps, as the bend in the bars *just* caught that point of where the outer edge of the clamp sat. For that reason, I mounted the risers with the name facing inwards, which gives a much better grip for the clamps. The second pic below shows a bit more detail of the hoses and the risers for you. At this point in the process, I hadn't yet determined that the clutch hose would tend to catch the bridge at the left fork corner, so I removed that clutch hose clamp located on the frame and instead used the black plastic clamp that had been on the front brake hose and clamped the clutch hose to the upper fork tube, as seen in the first photo.
If you do the same dismantling, it is an excellent time to inspect, clean, lube and re-torque the steering head bearings. Mine still had the ball bearings and the races and balls were all in very good condition. As an aside to this, over the many years of much "wobble" and "headshake" teeth gnashing and debate, I have come to believe that the vast majority of those issues would never have surfaced if every new ST1100 was properly serviced at its first Honda mandated service interval, which specified a re-torquing of the steering head bearings. Being a bit of a tear down expense, I doubt that service was performed on many ST's early in their life.
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Hey Dimmer, how did you make out? I'm considering some risers and so I'm interested. If you have them installed...
1) Are you happy with them?
2) Do you think you could have fitted the Rox 3.5" Risers and just rerouted some lines/cables or do you think you'd of had to get some longer one?
Thanks,
Extemp.
Well....the risers are still on the shelf. Life got in the way. That, and the annual 1600 mile ride through New England. I didn't want to take the ST1100 apart just in case I couldn't get it back together in time for the ride. Then there was, golf, beach,...... As you've read from the above thread it shouldn't be too hard to put the riser on, although I'm pretty sure that the I'll have to remove and reroute the throttle cables to the rear of the triple tree. Two things....1) if you haven't bought the Rox Risers yet, I'm pretty sure that you can get the same functionality with a set of PowerMadd 45430 (or similar) risers for a little bit less money and 2) Check out http://cycle-ergo.com/ to see how the addition of risers will affect your seating position, etc. It's a great site to see how you'll fit on a bunch of bikes.[h=1][/h]
Thank You!
After much reading, I think, when they are back in stock at my preferred store, I'm going to give these a try.
http://shop.sw-motech.com/en/4052572009864.htm
Regards,
Extemp.
Those look like a variation of the flip clip mod. The come straight back on the current angle. The Powermadd's or the Rox risers will also allow you to vary the angle by trading off height vs. pull back.