ST1100 timing belt, idler and tensioner replacement - service manual

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May 27, 2015
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Bulgaria
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'01 ST1100Y
Dear mates, can anyone send me a copy of the service manual, especially that part for the timing belt, idler and tensioner replacement, and the torque for the bolts of the pulleys etc. Will be very happy to see the values and do my bike as it must be done. Thanks in advance, greetings from Bulgaria! My email is stefanszbg@abv.bg. :policeST:
 

ESB

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I have the '91 ST1100 HONDA Service Manual - With Part No. 61MT300 - You should B able to find this book Online. Can Not help you with any copies.

All the work and specs. for this T.B. job are in Chapter 8 - Pages 8-10 to 8-13. HTH.

Not bad, once U get access. Just make sure U take some good pics along the way, AND line up ALL the timing marks per the Manual.
Did mine at about 100K - & Took my time. LOL
 
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A job I will need to tackle in the future,currently at 50,000 miles so it will take me 10 years to reach 100k at the rate I'm going, the belt will be very old by then though,14 years old at the minute.
 
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West Michigan
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'98 ST1100
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8470
A job I will need to tackle in the future,currently at 50,000 miles so it will take me 10 years to reach 100k at the rate I'm going, the belt will be very old by then though,14 years old at the minute.
I wouldn't worry about the age too much. I just replaced the belt on my '98 with 76K miles on it. The old belt ( original, made in Japan ) still looked like new. The new Gates belt was made in the UK, BTW.
 
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I wouldn't worry about the age too much. I just replaced the belt on my '98 with 76K miles on it. The old belt ( original, made in Japan ) still looked like new. The new Gates belt was made in the UK, BTW.
Thanks,I'm not going to bother with it for a few years yet,I'd imagine the Gates belt would be very good though.
 
OP
OP
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Bulgaria
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'01 ST1100Y
Hello mates, I've already replacet the timing belt, idler and tensioner. The Pan is alive again, sounds lovely. Tightened the bolts of the tensioner and the idler just a bit more than its written on the manual (46Nm by book, about 53Nm tightened). At first, I installed the idler, and tightened the bolt to 53Nm, also glued it as written on the manual. Then, it was time for the tensioner. At first I missed aligning the gap on the tensioner and the pin on the engine block so the tensioner was not able to tighten the belt. Then I saw the problem, and fixed it even with the belt installed. Marks seemed good, so I continued. I loosen the tensioner bolt to allow the spring to tighten the belt, then tightened it a bit and cranked the engine several times for secure. Then, as written on the manual, loosen the tensioner bolt again, and cranked the engine another few turns, and set the marks 3 teeth further, then tightened properly (in my case about 53Nm) the tensioner bolt. The guide pulley on the left camshaft was still not tightened finally. I removed it just to see again the proper position of the marks to be sure its all okay still. Everything looked good, so I installed the guiding pulley back, and tightened the bolt with 30Nm torque. Cranked again few turns, then installed the timing covers. Then installed the re-painted radiator, filled up with antifreeze, put in new oil and filter, changed the sparkplugs, and checked all again before trying to start the engine. Cranked on starter without choke at first to allow the oil flow trough the engine, the pulled the choke, and it started normally. Warmed it up enough to switch the fan on, it switched normally. Then I took the bike for a little ride (without any covers just naked), and it was my mistake I forgot to install the little cap on the crankshaft pulley. I saw that after getting back home, hopefully no problems with that. Cherries are falling on the road here in Bulgaria, so there were two smashed from the frontwheel cherries in the hole, i removed them, and it looked clean. For me and some other people who work on cars and bikes, everything is good, no uncommon noises or something. Now i will continue with getting the bike all dressed up, polished paint and refreshed dashboard etc. I hope having no problems until the next change hopefully after 100000km :) thanks everyone for the help you caused me with the manual! Wish you good luck, and many many non-problematic and pleasure kilometers with the bikes :)
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Thanks for the followup, Stefan, and congratulations!

Regards, John

[apologies for the link, mods...]
 
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OP
OP
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Bulgaria
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'01 ST1100Y
I also changed the clutch because it was slipping especially on 4th and 5th gear - it was baked. I installed a whole set of clutch, Lucas brand. The slave cylinder was looking and working good, so I did not touched it, only changed the fluid in the system. Now it is much better for riding. Radiator has just started to corrode from outside, so I cleaned it well, and re-painted it with thermoresistant black paint. The thermostat was stuck opened, so I changed the item, also checked all the rubber pipes I can see - they looked perfect and still elastic. Hope that information by steps will help other mates with servicing their bikes.
 
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I also changed the clutch because it was slipping especially on 4th and 5th gear - it was baked. I installed a whole set of clutch, Lucas brand. The slave cylinder was looking and working good, so I did not touched it, only changed the fluid in the system. Now it is much better for riding. Radiator has just started to corrode from outside, so I cleaned it well, and re-painted it with thermoresistant black paint. The thermostat was stuck opened, so I changed the item, also checked all the rubber pipes I can see - they looked perfect and still elastic. Hope that information by steps will help other mates with servicing their bikes.

Well done and thanks for the follow up information,I can refer back to this thread when the time comes.
 
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Apr 25, 2015
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Augusta,Kansas
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1994 ST 1100
Was there a date stamp on the Gates belt. Just curious how long the belts sit on the shelf before being sold. My ' 94' has original belt and only 34K miles, Ive been contemplating changing but how old are the belts being sold.
 
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ST1100Y

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Well, there is a difference between a t/belt sitting on the shelf inside its protective wrapper, or running in an engine, where its exposed to (massive) temp changes, mechanical stress and other environmental influences...
 
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Well, there is a difference between a t/belt sitting on the shelf inside its protective wrapper, or running in an engine, where its exposed to (massive) temp changes, mechanical stress and other environmental influences...
What would you think of a 14 year old belt with just turned 50,000 miles on it Martin? ok for a few more years?
 
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Sorry, my Crystal Ball is out for service... ;-)

Dunno, give it a visual as recommended in the w/shop manual and decide from there...
Ah there would be no point in me looking at it,I might get a mate who is a bike mechanic to have a look sometime,thanks.
 

ST1100Y

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I might get a mate who is a bike mechanic to have a look sometime, thanks.
Surely worth it, and if it doubts, replace the darn thing and items connected... IMHO definitely not worth blowing the engine over a, in comparison, few bucks... would be a shame to waste a perfect motorcycle...
 
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