Which would you buy. Advise me

Here are my choices, all St13000 no abs
2004 with 80k miles. $4000. Private owner
2005 with 26k miles. $5400. Dealer
2005 with 65k miles $6400. Dealer
2007 with 71k miles $6100. Dealer

all bikes really have no info for me. The dealers say they were either a trade in or bought from a car dealership. (People buying cars wanting to get rid of the bikes I guess)
only test rode the 2004 and all was fine. Just mostly cosmetic. Everything seemed to work like normal.
The dealer bikes won't allow test drives. Only start up and listen to the engine.

What at should I look for. I know that low miles could be bad due to rust inside the tank. The 04 looked fine from what I could see. What goes bad with these bikes. I've owned a 03 VFR800 and the only thing that was bad was the stator.

i haven't seen the 05 with 26k miles yet. But the dealer says it's very clean, although they say they didn't do anything to it. As in no fluid change. They pretty much said "if it looks good we price it lower to get rid of it"
i don't think their mechanics even looked at it. It came in on a trade.

so far I'm leaning toward the 04 with 80k miles. The price is so low that I figure I'm saving $1000-2000 to go towards a repair later in the future. Besides dealers prices are soooo much more then KBB.

Anyways I don't know what to look for, or what to expect to go bad. And what it might cost to fix. Does anyone have any experience with what breaks first and what the costs are to fix.
I really hate when there is no info from the previous owners. No records of anything like oil changes or chains/ sprockets etc...


s7

Thx Jim, there were some nice deals. Most bikes would be a fly and drive. That factors in my price but like you said they are probably loaded with info. I'll keep looking.

Just my personal convictions, but I wouldn't consider buying ANY ST without ABS.

I agree with all above (tho I know nothing about windshields on European bikes). I looked from August until October before I found mine - on this website. Having said that, I suggest you expand your search. Google "all craigslist" and use one of the searches to look all over the USA. Also, scour eBay. More information is always good and Kelly's blue book is only a suggested starting point. Local conditions will move the price up or down. And patience, patience, patience. You will find the right bike but it might take some time.

Since Honda has abandoned us, a lot of guys are buying new FJR's. You might look at alternatives to the ST.

Walk into the '05 with low miles dealer, gear in hand, 45-4700 cash in hand, demand a test ride, ride it home and enjoy.

What color do you prefer?

Private party is sale price only, dealers will charge sales tax although DMV may charge you sales tax on private party sale when you register it depending on state laws/rules.

You have more history on the private party bike than the dealer trade-ins. Without prior history you can see if you can get the dealer to possibly do fluid change and valve check as part of the sale or maybe lower the price as these are things you will need to do without history.

ABS would be nice but depending on what you want shouldn't be a deal breaker either way. Since you haven't seen the bikes, one of them may have ABS as some dealers are totally clueless when it comes to the ST1300's.

Don't forget to check out the Bikes for Sale section. You might find one there.

OK guys, I want to go into a deal with tons of info.
WHat am I looking at if I had to do everythng to an older bike to make it last another 50k miles or more.
With all the unknowns of when any fluid related stuff was ever changed or flushed I'd like to know what can I expect to pay for after I find a bike that has no documentation,
Oil
Radiator
Braks and fluid
drive shaft? or forks?
If you all can get me a ballpark on what that total would cost me that woul help me in possibly getting the price down.
$___?

I'm of course talking about bikes that have no info on when anything was done.

Don B said:

Just my personal convictions, but I wouldn't consider buying ANY ST without ABS.

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For me any other bike ridden mainly on the street, is gonna have ABS, for that matter.

Steviee7 said:

OK guys, I want to go into a deal with tons of info.
WHat am I looking at if I had to do everythng to an older bike to make it last another 50k miles or more.
With all the unknowns of when any fluid related stuff was ever changed or flushed I'd like to know what can I expect to pay for after I find a bike that has no documentation,
Oil
Radiator
Braks and fluid
drive shaft? or forks?
If you all can get me a ballpark on what that total would cost me that woul help me in possibly getting the price down.
$___?

I'm of course talking about bikes that have no info on when anything was done.

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The things are very hard to kill. Personally, I would not buy unless you have someone with you who knows a lot about them. Fluid changes are cheap. Components are VERY expensive, but rarely fail.

oil and filter - $22
Radiator - $10 flush and coolant, new radiator $400+
Brake fluid - $4
Drive shaft - $2 for lube, replacement with rear drive is megabucks
fork oil about $15

The shock needs renewing at about 50k miles. A rebuild is about $450, new is more.

Find a clean ABS model with documented service history. I have a 2003 model with 90k on it, but I am not giving it away. PM if you want more info.

I'd check the board for private sales. Check around on your DMV. In NJ they'll make up a value (blue book?) and charge tax on that if it's unreasonably low sales price. A notarized statement from the seller stating the low price will end around that. I bought then sold back a car 6 mos later to help someone out for $100 both transactions with no issue that way.

US spec all come with the electric windscreen except 03 non abs. Check for smooth operation up and down with no groans or notchy movement.
Put it on the center stand in gear check u-joint free play. Out of gear check rotation and any SMC sticking. Sit on it to get the front up and check for any notchy feeling in the head bearings.
Pull the seat and check for owner creative wiring.
If you can pull the rear wheel check the drive splines for wear and notchy bearings. Dealer maintained might not have had the proper moly PASTE used on tire changes.
Check that one key smoothly operates all 7 key tumblers. bag locks, bag attachment, gas cap, ignition, fairing pocket.
Color of the clutch and brake fluid schmootz in the reservoirs.
Condition inside the gas tank.
Pump the forks good and check for signs of wet tubes/leaky seals.

Typical failures.
Sticky SMC keeping pressure on the rear outer 2 brake pistons.
Stuck open t'stat. Hard to tell if the weather is warm. ECT should show 3 bar coolant temp after warmed up in any weather moving or idling. Rolling at say 45deg and you see a dip to 2 bars you have a stuck t'stat.
Stripped gear on electric windshield.
Leaky coolant hoses when it's cold out.
If the clock resets to 1 after a start the battery wasn't charged or it's worn out. The dealer is probably the most expensive place to get a new one.
Most stuff that goes wrong is a DIY repair. There are a lot of helpful people on the board to help you thru it.
Getting parts shouldn't be an issue. Most parts are common except color for all years. The stwiki on notonthe.net lists known differences.
All in all these machines are pretty reliable.
With no history I'd changed the fluids once you got it into your garage. Check the forums for the specific order used to flush the brake system. Not hard but there is a specific sequence.

Hi Steviee7,
I would not worry about ABS you stop quicker without it in the dry and there are other down sides as well, I have had three bikes with ABS and I have never had the ABS come in at all, but my current 02 1300 pan has not got ABS,
also the electric screen is questionable as well because the non electric one is still adjustable and when you have got it to where you want it, you do not need to adjust it again and that is possibly why the electric ones lock up from lack of use, other than that there are a lot of good points mentioned in the posts above i.e. changing the brake fluid as it absorbs water and can damage the pistons and cylinders etc if it is not changed,
I had two oil seals go on mine one on the slave cyl rod and on a cover both requiring the engine out to repair, but I think they were due to the bike standing for a long while and unused, but having sorted those points out I have had no trouble with it at all and it does not get used daily as I ride two other non Honda bikes as well,
But if the bike you want to buy looks looked after and is not damaged in any way then it is a fair bet it has been looked after by the last owner, do not buy one that looks a bit sad or neglected no matter how cheap because the maintenance will be the same,

Good Luck,
Keith

Oh p.s. Steviee7,
I am amazed you can not test drive the bikes you have seen, over here in the UK no one would buy anything car of bike without a test drive, so you will have to have a very very good look at the bike you are interested in
Keith

Steviee7 said:

what can I expect to pay for after I find a bike that has no documentation,
Oil
Radiator
Braks and fluid
drive shaft? or forks?
If you all can get me a ballpark on what that total would cost me that woul help me in possibly getting the price down.
$___?

Click to expand...

If you do it yourself, probably less than $100 to change all the fluids - radiator, oil, brake, clutch, and final drive. A good battery will cost about $150. Rock it back and forth with the brakes on to make sure the forks and shock still have some life left in them.

Find an ABS model as these bikes weigh 600 lbs and it will be virtually impossible for you to tell if a tire is skidding on wet pavement without ABS. Next, choose the color you like. Lastly, if it looks well maintained (check color of brake and clutch fluid, amber is good) and is under 150,000 miles you are good to go.

RCS said:

If you do it yourself, probably less than $100 to change all the fluids - radiator, oil, brake, clutch, and final drive. A good battery will cost about $150. Rock it back and forth with the brakes on to make sure the forks and shock still have some life left in them.

Find an ABS model as these bikes weigh 600 lbs and it will be virtually impossible for you to tell if a tire is skidding on wet pavement without ABS. Next, choose the color you like. Lastly, if it looks well maintained (check color of brake and clutch fluid, amber is good) and is under 150,000 miles you are good to go.

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Actually, closer to 720lbs with a full tank. I think the less experience you have the better ABS is.

RCS said:

If you do it yourself, probably less than $100 to change all the fluids - radiator, oil, brake, clutch, and final drive. A good battery will cost about $150. Rock it back and forth with the brakes on to make sure the forks and shock still have some life left in them.

Find an ABS model as these bikes weigh 600 lbs and it will be virtually impossible for you to tell if a tire is skidding on wet pavement without ABS. Next, choose the color you like. Lastly, if it looks well maintained (check color of brake and clutch fluid, amber is good) and is under 150,000 miles you are good to go.

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I agree with the $100 number - especially if you like to use Honda components rather than, for example, automotive oil. Lot of opinions both ways on this. Don't forget tires. A set will cost in the 250 - 300 range, with mounting extra (anywhere from about $25 per wheel up to 70 (the last high that I heard)) assuming you pull the wheels off the bike. In Nov. 2013 I paid a dealer almost 350 to change all the fluids and replace rear brake pads (I supplied Honda pads, previously bought from this dealer), replace the air fliter, replace a few missing plastic fasteners, correct a little bogus splicing, and adjust the idle speed. This bike was new to me then, I did not know my way around it, and the dealer has a very good local reputation with a dynamite mechanic. He also generally looked over the bike and pronounced it in good shape (road test was included).

I'm an ABS fan - and you will find opinions both ways on this site - search for 'ABS'. I do, however, disagree with the 'you will not know if a tire is skidding'. Believe me, you will know, and you may even be down sliding along next to the bike. A sliding tire feels vastly different than a rolling one - and the unfortunate truth is that they usually slide sideways while they roll forward and back.

Hh

Steviee7 said:

Here are my choices, all St13000 no abs
2004 with 80k miles. $4000. Private owner
2005 with 26k miles. $5400. Dealer
2005 with 65k miles $6400. Dealer
2007 with 71k miles $6100. Dealer

all bikes really have no info for me. The dealers say they were either a trade in or bought from a car dealership. (People buying cars wanting to get rid of the bikes I guess)
only test rode the 2004 and all was fine. Just mostly cosmetic. Everything seemed to work like normal.
The dealer bikes won't allow test drives. Only start up and listen to the engine.

What at should I look for. I know that low miles could be bad due to rust inside the tank. The 04 looked fine from what I could see. What goes bad with these bikes. I've owned a 03 VFR800 and the only thing that was bad was the stator.

i haven't seen the 05 with 26k miles yet. But the dealer says it's very clean, although they say they didn't do anything to it. As in no fluid change. They pretty much said "if it looks good we price it lower to get rid of it"
i don't think their mechanics even looked at it. It came in on a trade.

so far I'm leaning toward the 04 with 80k miles. The price is so low that I figure I'm saving $1000-2000 to go towards a repair later in the future. Besides dealers prices are soooo much more then KBB.

Anyways I don't know what to look for, or what to expect to go bad. And what it might cost to fix. Does anyone have any experience with what breaks first and what the costs are to fix.
I really hate when there is no info from the previous owners. No records of anything like oil changes or chains/ sprockets etc...


s7

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Is one of the 05s at the Honda dealer in Holly Hill/ Daytona? I've seen an 05 there that I was tempted to buy. It's gorgeous and of course I'm partial to the Candy Glory Red of that year. The problem for me is I have 153,000 on my 05 and I see it easily going way past 200,000 plus I couldn't sell mine for squat even though I'd ride it to CA tomorrow. It's worth is much greater to me than to any potential buyer. These things are stone stupid reliable and any potential problems are easily sorted. My thoughts are that miles are miles and unless there is a huge price difference to take an 80k bike over a 26k bike I'd take the lower mileage bike. ABS is not a deal breaker for me but that's entirely personal. I take care of my bacon just fine. I'm surprised bacon hasn't been mentioned yet.

SMSW said:

Snipped......

I'm an ABS fan - and you will find opinions both ways on this site - search for 'ABS'. I do, however, disagree with the 'you will not know if a tire is skidding'. Believe me, you will know, and you may even be down sliding along next to the bike. A sliding tire feels vastly different than a rolling one - and the unfortunate truth is that they usually slide sideways while they roll forward and back.

Click to expand...

If one practices braking drills like your life depends on it you'll know when one is skidding or about to and what to do or what you can get away with. You might not be able to save it but you will have a big box of knowledge to dig around in. If you don't practice, it's all new to you when it happens and well, good luck with that.

I’ve had four ST1300s, first was a ’05 I bought new and put over 174K miles on it before selling it to one of my sons, and he is still riding it. The last three have all been wrecks. Two ‘04s and a 2010. My first ’04 was complete, just banged up pretty good - I've put about 37K on it in three years. My 2010 with ABS was missing 100% of the front plastic, including the speedometer - I've put about 34K on it in two years. The last, ’04, was in the worst shape. Even the forks were bad on it! And I have now put about 6K on it.

So with that little knowledge, here is my take on what to look for in a used bike.

First would be: What can you afford?

Then I would start looking for the newest, lowest mileage bike I could afford and then look at the condition of the bike in general. To me, the outside is just as important as the internals. The reason is, if they didn’t keep it up on the outside, I doubt if they did any better with the inside. (Yeah, I know, I’ll get some grief over that, but that how I look at them.)

Now, why do I say lowest mileage bike? These are great bikes, but there are some things I just don’t trust over age (that includes miles)! And these bikes are getting older…

Coolant Issues: These bikes are prone for coolant leaks. Most are found in the valley behind the thermostat housing and just require the clamps to be tightened. But, when you are talking a five to 10 year old bike, those hoses are starting to get old and hard (the more the miles, the harder they will be). Tightening those clamps could get you more leaks. Also, some of the ’04, ’05 & ‘06s had issues with their thermostat freezing open. Replacing that when replacing the hoses would be a good thing.

But once you replace those hoses, you should be fine.

Other issues are not as common.

Electric windshield going out, I’ve had two go out on two different bikes. The first one was caused from old age and trying to take a long trip, putting the screen up father than normal. The other, I had a wire (that I added) come in contact with the cables used to move the screen up and down. The first was replaced under warranty at 120K miles. The second I replaced myself since I had no warranty on that bike anyway.

Rear Flange Bearings are known to go out. You’ll know when they go bad when you change out your rear tire. I’ve had a couple other bearings go out too.

Waterpumps seem to go out at various times. I’m not sure what the lowest mileage bike to have a waterpump go out has been, but I had my ’05’s go out twice on me. First time around 50K and then again at 116K. My son still has it and it has around 185K on it now…plus or minus a 1K or 2K… My ’04 #1’s waterpump went out at 67K, and is sitting on my lift waiting for me to get to it.

Left Headlight bulb….yeah, just keep an eye on it.

Locks and keys: While trying to adjust the gas tank lock, I had the key break in the lock. At the time the lock was not down on the tank, so I just replaced the lock. Others have had theirs keys break in the ignition lock. The stock keys can be weak.

Oil leaks: Some of these bikes develop oil leaks at the back of the motor, like my ‘04#1. I suspect the starter motor o-ring is leaking. I’m getting ready to replace all the oil seals and o-rings on this bike. Also, you might see oil leaking what looks to be from the head. It is just the inner valve cover seal leaking. They have a small space for the oil to leak out of the sparkplug area, so if your valve cover seal isn’t working properly, you’ll see some oil oozing down the engine.

The 5-way Tee… gets most when they aren’t looking. Just all of a sudden, the bike will run rough, and the FI light will come on. If you can get a code, it is usually the Map Sensor showing to be bad. There is a 5-way tee connected to it and that 5-way tee gets plugged up. Unplug it and you are good to go!

Anyway, good luck on your search!

Are there any safety benefits of going with a 2008+ model? - Assuming ABS included pre and post 08. I ask, as I've read about the UK police bike rejection / concerns and figured something may have been changed to make high speed traveling safer. I had originally thought getting a 2008 or newer model would be the best bet, as Honda hasn't made any changes to it other than color since that year. In looking at the model year changes at the ST Wiki, it doesn't appear like the changes made were all that significant in 2008, which would open up the door to a wider selection of bikes at a lower price point which would be good on my wallet.

There were no chassis or frame changes to US models in regards to the "Pan Weave". The ST1300 release in the USA was delayed about half a year from the UK and European markets in order to incorporate the swing arm revision. 2003 and subsequent models all had the same chassis and running gear.