Which would you buy. Advise me

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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Are there any safety benefits of going with a 2008+ model? - Assuming ABS included pre and post 08. I ask, as I've read about the UK police bike rejection / concerns and figured something may have been changed to make high speed traveling safer. I had originally thought getting a 2008 or newer model would be the best bet, as Honda hasn't made any changes to it other than color since that year. In looking at the model year changes at the ST Wiki, it doesn't appear like the changes made were all that significant in 2008, which would open up the door to a wider selection of bikes at a lower price point which would be good on my wallet.
They did make a slight change to the ABS, different kind of ring up front and the front pads are different. Most of the changes that I have found were in the mufflers, (More cat?) and they seem to get hotter than the pre-'08 mufflers. I didn't see any differences when comparing the throttlebodies, so they aren't pushing out less or more fuel.

I would make your choice based on miles/age/$$$ and just remember, these bikes are getting old and the hoses are starting to get harder with more miles on them. So, if you get an older ST1300 and it starts or has a leak, be prepared to change out all of the coolant hoses.
 

RCS

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Actually, closer to 720lbs with a full tank. I think the less experience you have the better ABS is.
You are right, it is heavy.

Now, if we were talking about a 300lb racing motorcycle I could see someone with experience controlling a skid on wet pavement. With 720lbs of steel plus rider weight believing skill and/or experience will identify wheel lock-up on wet pavement in time and save one from crashing is wishful thinking.
 
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Mark

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No one (that I can see above) has mentioned the rear splines.
I would want to see the rear splines on any ST1x00 that I was interested in buying.

We didn't own our '05 long enough, *only* 50,000 miles, to see if the spline wore quickly with proper maintenance.
I haven't seen many of spline failure threads on the ST1300s though...
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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No one (that I can see above) has mentioned the rear splines.
I would want to see the rear splines on any ST1x00 that I was interested in buying.

We didn't own our '05 long enough, *only* 50,000 miles, to see if the spline wore quickly with proper maintenance.
I haven't seen many of spline failure threads on the ST1300s though...
I put 174+K on my '05, no problems with the splines. I did replace the rubber dampers once during that time.
 

dduelin

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You are right, it is heavy.

Now, if we were talking about a 300lb racing motorcycle I could see someone with experience controlling a skid on wet pavement. With 720lbs of steel plus rider weight believing skill and/or experience will identify wheel lock-up on wet pavement in time and save one from crashing is wishful thinking.
I said it earlier in this post but it may have been missed. If one practices threshold braking drills and a lock-up drill you absolutely can learn to feel what is happening at the contact patch with any motorcycle. Threshold drills also build muscle memory that might help resist the panic reflex that grabs too much brake too quick and locks up the front before weight transfer has a chance to load up the front tire and give even more feel. A big heavy bike is actually easier to control because heavy braking tends not to unload the rear wheel from weight transfer. Those 300 lb bikes do a stoppie under heavy braking and completely unload the rear tire.
 
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I put 174+K on my '05, no problems with the splines. I did replace the rubber dampers once during that time.
With "proper" care I don't think there's much wear at all as the miles pile up. But I've seen some 11's where an o-ring failed and the splines were tiny nubs mostly a pile of rust. I don't know their service history or if they had the magic works everywhere red grease instead of moly.
 
Joined
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North Dakota
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04 ST13
Here are my choices, all St13000 no abs
2004 with 80k miles. $4000. Private owner
2005 with 26k miles. $5400. Dealer
2005 with 65k miles $6400. Dealer
2007 with 71k miles $6100. Dealer

all bikes really have no info for me. The dealers say they were either a trade in or bought from a car dealership. (People buying cars wanting to get rid of the bikes I guess)
only test rode the 2004 and all was fine. Just mostly cosmetic. Everything seemed to work like normal.
The dealer bikes won't allow test drives. Only start up and listen to the engine.

What at should I look for. I know that low miles could be bad due to rust inside the tank. The 04 looked fine from what I could see. What goes bad with these bikes. I've owned a 03 VFR800 and the only thing that was bad was the stator.

i haven't seen the 05 with 26k miles yet. But the dealer says it's very clean, although they say they didn't do anything to it. As in no fluid change. They pretty much said "if it looks good we price it lower to get rid of it"
i don't think their mechanics even looked at it. It came in on a trade.

so far I'm leaning toward the 04 with 80k miles. The price is so low that I figure I'm saving $1000-2000 to go towards a repair later in the future. Besides dealers prices are soooo much more then KBB.

Anyways I don't know what to look for, or what to expect to go bad. And what it might cost to fix. Does anyone have any experience with what breaks first and what the costs are to fix.
I really hate when there is no info from the previous owners. No records of anything like oil changes or chains/ sprockets etc...


s7
I can tell you that I bought a nice 04 last year with 66,000 miles on it. I paid $4,500 which was a decent buy. For what its worth, the things I have had to replaced or worked on since then are as follows:

-Battery
-Front and rear brakes
-Tires
-Fork seals
-Air filter
-Windshield motor just died on me (That will be $400 or so)
-Needed to flush coolant, brake lines, & clutch. Noticed an improvement on clutch feel after flushing the fluid.
-Drive splines, U-joint, and the drivetrain in general seem to be in great shape.
-Spark plugs

This stuff is pretty routine so none of it surprised me. I have 74,000 on the bike now and since doing these maintenance items I expect pretty trouble free mileage for a long time. I do get a long way from home on this bike so wonder about the alternator and water pump, but as of right now I have no issues. Alternator is charging 14.3 volts at idle so that seems good. The bike warms up to three bars and maintains that unless I ride through pretty heavy rain it cools off some so I know the thermostat is good. Would a lower mileage bike have saved me some maintenance cash? Probably, but the same things might have to be done on a 40,000 mile bike.

Good luck with your purchase and ride safe.
 
Joined
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04 ST13
I’ve had four ST1300s, first was a ’05 I bought new and put over 174K miles on it before selling it to one of my sons, and he is still riding it. The last three have all been wrecks. Two ‘04s and a 2010. My first ’04 was complete, just banged up pretty good - I've put about 37K on it in three years. My 2010 with ABS was missing 100% of the front plastic, including the speedometer - I've put about 34K on it in two years. The last, ’04, was in the worst shape. Even the forks were bad on it! And I have now put about 6K on it.

So with that little knowledge, here is my take on what to look for in a used bike.

First would be: What can you afford?

Then I would start looking for the newest, lowest mileage bike I could afford and then look at the condition of the bike in general. To me, the outside is just as important as the internals. The reason is, if they didn’t keep it up on the outside, I doubt if they did any better with the inside. (Yeah, I know, I’ll get some grief over that, but that how I look at them.)

Now, why do I say lowest mileage bike? These are great bikes, but there are some things I just don’t trust over age (that includes miles)! And these bikes are getting older…

Coolant Issues: These bikes are prone for coolant leaks. Most are found in the valley behind the thermostat housing and just require the clamps to be tightened. But, when you are talking a five to 10 year old bike, those hoses are starting to get old and hard (the more the miles, the harder they will be). Tightening those clamps could get you more leaks. Also, some of the ’04, ’05 & ‘06s had issues with their thermostat freezing open. Replacing that when replacing the hoses would be a good thing.

But once you replace those hoses, you should be fine.

Other issues are not as common.

Electric windshield going out, I’ve had two go out on two different bikes. The first one was caused from old age and trying to take a long trip, putting the screen up father than normal. The other, I had a wire (that I added) come in contact with the cables used to move the screen up and down. The first was replaced under warranty at 120K miles. The second I replaced myself since I had no warranty on that bike anyway.

Rear Flange Bearings are known to go out. You’ll know when they go bad when you change out your rear tire. I’ve had a couple other bearings go out too.

Waterpumps seem to go out at various times. I’m not sure what the lowest mileage bike to have a waterpump go out has been, but I had my ’05’s go out twice on me. First time around 50K and then again at 116K. My son still has it and it has around 185K on it now…plus or minus a 1K or 2K…;) My ’04 #1’s waterpump went out at 67K, and is sitting on my lift waiting for me to get to it.

Left Headlight bulb….yeah, just keep an eye on it.

Locks and keys: While trying to adjust the gas tank lock, I had the key break in the lock. At the time the lock was not down on the tank, so I just replaced the lock. Others have had theirs keys break in the ignition lock. The stock keys can be weak.

Oil leaks: Some of these bikes develop oil leaks at the back of the motor, like my ‘04#1. I suspect the starter motor o-ring is leaking. I’m getting ready to replace all the oil seals and o-rings on this bike. Also, you might see oil leaking what looks to be from the head. It is just the inner valve cover seal leaking. They have a small space for the oil to leak out of the sparkplug area, so if your valve cover seal isn’t working properly, you’ll see some oil oozing down the engine.

The 5-way Tee… gets most when they aren’t looking. Just all of a sudden, the bike will run rough, and the FI light will come on. If you can get a code, it is usually the Map Sensor showing to be bad. There is a 5-way tee connected to it and that 5-way tee gets plugged up. Unplug it and you are good to go!

Anyway, good luck on your search!
Great post. I'm not the OP but this good info here that I will reference in the future. Thank you.
 
Joined
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04 ST13
OK guys, I want to go into a deal with tons of info.
WHat am I looking at if I had to do everythng to an older bike to make it last another 50k miles or more.
With all the unknowns of when any fluid related stuff was ever changed or flushed I'd like to know what can I expect to pay for after I find a bike that has no documentation,
Oil
Radiator
Braks and fluid
drive shaft? or forks?
If you all can get me a ballpark on what that total would cost me that woul help me in possibly getting the price down.
$___?

I'm of course talking about bikes that have no info on when anything was done.
See my earlier post on maintenance. These things cost me around $1200. :(
 
OP
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Well I bought the 04 for $3800. Had 80k but everything worked fine. Drove it 2.5 hours one day and ran very well, got onto the highway doing average of about 70-80mph and saw the FI light come on. Pulled over at the next exit shut it off and restarted and the light went off. Rode another 45 minutes and it came back on. I kept riding. The next day I rode the same distance and time but kept my speed below 70mph and in the 2.5 hour ride the FI light never went on. Maybe it was running off some bad or 87octane gas but the next fill up I put 93 in it. I still need to drop it off at my mechanic so he can look at all fluids and do what he needs to do.
Overall it seems to be a great ride.
No idea why the FI light came on and I guess there's no way to look at what it is unless the light stays on. Unlike modern cars where it will store the fault in memory. (From what I've been told)

anyways thanks again from all you guys. I just wish it would stop raining here so I can go ride!
 

Byron

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Congratulations on the purchase. If the fuel pump screen in the lower tank is clogging up it could cause low fuel pressure and trigger the FI light. Slower speed may allow enough fuel to be fed but higher speeds may cause fuel starvation/low pressure. Not that hard to check/clean/or replace if necessary.
 

steve3b3

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Central MA
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2018 GoldWing
On my '04, purchased new, I've replaced
rear wheel bearings twice.
Water pump at ~90K
Steering head bearings at 120K
Fork seals. Can't remember the mileage, but that was while adding RaceTech front springs. Probably ~60K
Oil,filters, antifreeze regularly.

My bike doesn't have ABS. If it did, I'd have bought it, but I don't miss it. All do have linked brakes, and they're effective.

Steve :04biker:
p.s. I've got >121K on the bike now.
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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Congrats on the purchase and hope you can get things ironed out, so you can enjoy the bike!

I would buy a can of Seafoam and dump about half in a full tank, run a couple of tanks through and throw in the rest. A 11 year old bike with 80K isn't "Old", but if it has sat for any length of time, it could crud a few things up.
 
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OP
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Orlando
I'll try the seafoam thing. Sounds like the diagnosis makes sense. Higher rpm needs more fuel. Is changing the fuel filter an easy task?

I spent today changing the final drive fluid to royal purple 75w90. That was so easy! Then changed the crankcase oil to mobil1 10w40 synth.
That was also easy. I love the fact that the filter is easily accessible. No need to remove fairings.
I had to add a little radiator fluid. That is kind of difficult to see the level in that bottle.

Anyways getting 42mpg on highway 65-70mph. If I keep it around 50-55 it seem to get 50mpg. Not sure if that is the norm for everyone else.
 
Joined
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Location
North Dakota
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04 ST13
I'll try the seafoam thing. Sounds like the diagnosis makes sense. Higher rpm needs more fuel. Is changing the fuel filter an easy task?

I spent today changing the final drive fluid to royal purple 75w90. That was so easy! Then changed the crankcase oil to mobil1 10w40 synth.
That was also easy. I love the fact that the filter is easily accessible. No need to remove fairings.
I had to add a little radiator fluid. That is kind of difficult to see the level in that bottle.

Anyways getting 42mpg on highway 65-70mph. If I keep it around 50-55 it seem to get 50mpg. Not sure if that is the norm for everyone else.
My instrument readout is 10% conservative on mpg. Check your mpg when you fill up and I bet your doing better than your 42 mpg at 65-70 mph. I get 40-42 mpg running 85-90 mph.
 
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