ST1100 2002 Non ABS Rear Brakes

ReSTored

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Have a question and need advise.

Had marginal brakes end of season 2013 and after winter break in March 2014 removed caliper, thoroughly cleaned seal grooves, pistons, put in new seals, cleaned and lubed caliper pins, new fluid, bled and brakes seemed to work fine. In March 2015 I removed pads, cleaned and cleaned pistons without removing them and they were working fine. Attended OHSTOC a few weeks ago and halfway through brakes became marginal again, minimal stopping power, would not lock when aggressively applied to test. Upon arriving home found innermost pad worn 99% (luckily not 100% and metal to metal on the disk) and other pad worn about 50%. I've ordered new pads, seals and pistons. Intend to remove caliper, clean thoroughly again and re-install with new seals, pistons and pads.

Questions

- I'm not certain is this is a stuck piston or caliper issue. Since the pads had worn unevenly I'm trending toward a caliper problem meaning the caliper pins seized up and caused pad drag on the disk. Does this make sense?
- How much effort should be required to push in the pistons once they been cleaned or replaced. Is there some way or quantifying this so I know they are moving freely?
- Any other suggestions or advise? What am I missing here as I thought this had been addressed in March 2014 & 2015 with routine maintenance.
 

ST1100Y

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...the caliper pins seized up and caused pad drag on the disk...
Sounds likely and/or (both problems can be present) the carrier bracket is stuck on the stop-bold, even deformed...

I'd remove the calliper pins, clean all and everything (especially the inside of those rubber boots) and apply white ceramic paste there, that should last for another decade.
Also see that the bracket/plate isn't damaged or stuck on a corroded stop-bolt; clean the latter and apply some copper slip for corrosion protection.

The dragging pad seems to have created enough heat to boil the brake fluid...
 

DaveWooster

'95 ST1100ALS and '98 Standard ST1100W
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Have a question and need advice.
Questions ...
- How much effort should be required to push in the pistons once they been cleaned or replaced? Is there some way of quantifying this so I know they are moving freely?
...
If I open the bleed valve, remove the pads, and can push each piston in smoothly with my bare fingers, then I consider piston movement to be free enough for me. (And my hands are not on the weak side.)
 
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ReSTored

ReSTored

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The caliper stopper bolt is OK and engaged.

I'm not understanding the comment "Also see that the bracket/plate isn't damaged or stuck on a corroded stop-bolt". The bolt is engaged and just holds or prevents the caliper/plate from rotating on the axle when the brake is applied as I understand it. This plate doesn't move once installed (does it??), how could it be "stuck" on a corroded stop bolt? I've often wondered about the complexity of the stopper bolt, the hassle of removing it and why Honda didn't just have some kind of bracket welded to the swing arm that a tab on the carrier bracket slid into to lock the caliper in place.

Still waiting for parts to arrive so I have time to figure this out.
 

ST1100Y

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This plate doesn't move once installed (does it??), how could it be "stuck" on a corroded stop bolt?
Well, the plate has a fixed point at the rear axle, but a "floating" counterpart at this stop bolt.
While applying the rear brake some lateral movement/forces will occur... if the bolt is heavily corroded/dirtied up the bracket might a) get misaligned/bend while inserting the bolt or b) it cannot compensate the offset due brake forces... both causing a non-parallel position of the calliper to the rotor...
Stuck calliper pins then make things worse...
 

ST4Sal

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isn't there a thread about the pins having to be in the right place/ position? Forgive me but i "think" this is the problem Don't know how to search
 
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