New OEM pads on the rear problem

Hello all,
I have a 2007 ST1300 with 101,008 miles and went to replace my rear brake pads:

I just put on a set on new OEM pads on the rear, as I have done several times with out any trouble. But this time I put them on and noticed above average drag and the rear disc heating up (with out the brake applied) So I fiddled with it a lot, found out that the brake pads are fine until I apply final torque to the axle nut. Then the brakes grab/stick and heat up, and it is very difficult to move the rear wheel by hand. It is almost like the pads are too thick. But they are OEM so I don't know. I have not run into this before when I replaced the pads.
I put the bike on the center stand and put it in first gear and the rear tire rotates but there is noticeable drag.
I have put on the old pads and everything is back to normal.

Any idea's? I will need new pads eventually, so I need to get this figured out.

Thanks in advance.

I just replaced all the pads on my '07 ( before the rally I didn't get to ) On the rear , there was corrosion on the 3 brake caliper cylinders , I took caliper off , all three cylinders out and polished them to shine like new before pushing back into the cleaned caliper bores. The corrosion will inhibit piston return movement . & I only had about 17K on the garaged ST. Sounds like when you put on the thicker new pads the corrosion is shoved back into the cylinder's seals and sticks there , where if you used the old ones , the corrosion is already past the cylinder's seals and still slide easier there. You don't want the corrosion to tear up your seals , either .

Could be a couple of things... Assumng the pistons aren't corroded, I had an issue once where the front-facing end of the new pad didn't get hooked on the caliper clip correctly; a re-install fixed that. The other issue I've seen is if the fluid resevoir was topped off with worn pads, there won't be enough expansion room for the new ones. HTH

playfair said:

Could be a couple of things... Assumng the pistons aren't corroded, I had an issue once where the front-facing end of the new pad didn't get hooked on the caliper clip correctly; a re-install fixed that. The other issue I've seen is if the fluid resevoir was topped off with worn pads, there won't be enough expansion room for the new ones. HTH

Click to expand...

Just what I was thinking. Both issues have happened to me.

OK, today put new pads back on, before though, cleaned everything, made sure the spring clips are in place properly, check fluid level, did everything by the book. After torquing the rear axle nut, I continue to have brake drag. But I found the problem, the inner front portion of (new) pad is tight against the rotor, while the back of the inner pad has a gap. Also when I removed the pads there was significant wear on the front leading edge of the new inner pad, but almost none on the back of the inner pad. I checked everything and things aren't adding up. Don'know what is wrong. It is like the front Inner pad is pinching the rotor and the back is not.

Could the front slide be bound up? Pull the 2 slide pins and check for movement.

ScubaDave said:

Could the front slide be bound up? Pull the 2 slide pins and check for movement.

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The rear wheel moves fine until I torque the rear axle nut, then everything binds up, the new pads slide easily in the slides with the rear wheel removed, but bind up when I put everything back together????

Just took bike for small test ride and the rear rotor got super hot, definitely brake drag, just not sure why?
I have had the wheel off and on about 10 times trying different things and analysis. I have no clue why this would be occurring for no reason. Put the old pads on and problem goes away completely.

When I said front slides I mean the ones on the rear caliper. There are 2 small pins/bolts that the caliper slides on to allow it to float and let the back pad fall away from the rotor. Could 1 of the pins be frozen up causing the caliper to not fall away from the rotor?

playfair said:

Could be a couple of things... Assumng the pistons aren't corroded, I had an issue once where the front-facing end of the new pad didn't get hooked on the caliper clip correctly; a re-install fixed that. The other issue I've seen is if the fluid resevoir was topped off with worn pads, there won't be enough expansion room for the new ones. HTH

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, neither of these is the situation. checked both and they are fine.

At this point I am stumped. If and when I ever figure this out I will post what it is.

Did you take out the front piston all the the way out of it's cylinder bore to check for a corrosion spot that is hanging it up ?

Wondering if there is some defect with the faces of the hole where the axle goes through?

Is the spacer in place on the left side of the wheel?

TourNut said:

Did you take out the front piston all the the way out of it's cylinder bore to check for a corrosion spot that is hanging it up ?

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When I cleaned the pistons they moved freely, so I don't think this is it.

dduelin said:

Is the spacer in place on the left side of the wheel?

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Yes spacer is there. The inner front pad (new) is worn I will post a pic.

ScubaDave said:

Wondering if there is some defect with the faces of the hole where the axle goes through?

Click to expand...

I almost think so but I have never heard of this before.
When torque is applied it pulls the wheel and brake caliper bracket together, this is when I get the bind up.

Can you remove the pads and maybe split the caliper and put it back on then measure from the caliper to the rotor in 2 places. trying to see if the caliper is really not straight with the rotor.

This is the brand new inner pad for the rear. you can see towards the front it has significant wear while in the rear it is still new.



I forgot to mention this is with about 6 miles on the pads.

ScubaDave said:

Can you remove the pads and maybe split the caliper and put it back on then measure from the caliper to the rotor in 2 places. trying to see if the caliper is really not straight with the rotor.

Click to expand...

I did check the spacing between the front and rear of the caliper and it is perfect and the pistons on the front are out the exact same distance as the ones on the rear.

Is your SMC stuck? Front left caliper, does it move up and down freely, if stuck, might be the issue.

Mellow said:

Is your SMC stuck? Front left caliper, does it move up and down freely, if stuck, might be the issue.

Click to expand...

When you say move freely, it moves about a 16th to a 32nd of an inch should it move more?
If this is the problem why would it only show when new pads are installed? All 3 pistons are out of the caliper the same distance and move in and out freely by pushing with my thumb.