I've always added brake fluid as the level dropped - against the possibility that a leak might leave me needing whatever was in the reservoir. It gets changed every two years anyway, and before replacing pads and pushing the pistons back in, I pop the cover of the reservoir(s) and either remove some fluid or watch the level carefully. Brake fluid gets flushed at brake pad replacement time, so there is no need to not lower the level before working on the calipers.
New OEM pads on the rear problem
- Thread starter ST-Traveler
- Start date
I wonder if the pad might be defective? On a car I once had a new brake pad that simply would not fit in the caliper. A quick touch to a grinding wheel removed enough of the end of the backing plate to allow it to fit nicely. Is it possible your pad is defective?
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Right here is your best offer you'll get on this forum! Don't miss it!
Another thought: was the pad that you originally took out evenly worn? If so, then my conclusion is that there's a problem with the installation of the new pad as has been mentioned, or the new pad is defective. For whatever my $0.02 is worth.
OP
OP
The old pad has perfectly even wear.
OP
OP
PM sent
Is the stopper bolt or pin hung up in the caliper mount? That can be removed and torque the rear with out it and see if it still binds. DO NOT RIDE WITH IT REMOVED.....
OP
OP
You and I think alike. I did try this but still had the binding.
Check (and I'm sure you did) that the front tabs are in place when you put the pads in. Compare the tabs to the old ones.
OP
OP
Just got off the phone with Igofar and after some brief trouble shooting, the SMC checked out OK, so he is thinking more than likely there is air in the system and recommends as Mellow did a brake bleed.
He is calling back later to help walk me through a quick brake bleed sequence.
Thanks Larry.
He is calling back later to help walk me through a quick brake bleed sequence.
Thanks Larry.
OP
OP
FIXED! After working with Larry, and actually figuring this out over the phone from 2500 miles away, I am pleased to report that the problem is fixed and I am ready to hit the open road again,
Thanks of coarse to Larry (Igofar) The root cause of the problem ended up being the front caliper bracket slide pin had seized up. After careful description to Larry he realized it wasn't the brake bleed after all but he knew the new pads were not floating correctly on the rear rotor. So Larry had me remove the rear brake caliper bracket, whoa wait a minute , I could not get it removed, Bingo!!! it had seized up. I have never had it apart before and didn't know it even came apart, but Larry had me remove it. Actually took me almost an hour to get it apart. And this is something that should slide apart like a "trombone". All the brown crud and pitting on the slide told the story. I diligently cleaned and removed all the pitting (scotch brite) and removed all the brown crud, Then lightly lubed it with silicone grease. Bingo- Sliding back and forth easily now. Even after I torqued the rear axle nut- amazing.
I did have the wife help me bleed the brakes, she was so patient... So everything is good again in the world. Heading out tomorrow for pre-NATSTOC.
I would like to thank all that tried so hard to help me figure this frustrating situation out.
And I apologize if someone mentioned this in a previous post (Caliper slide) and I didn't catch it.
Thanks of coarse to Larry (Igofar) The root cause of the problem ended up being the front caliper bracket slide pin had seized up. After careful description to Larry he realized it wasn't the brake bleed after all but he knew the new pads were not floating correctly on the rear rotor. So Larry had me remove the rear brake caliper bracket, whoa wait a minute , I could not get it removed, Bingo!!! it had seized up. I have never had it apart before and didn't know it even came apart, but Larry had me remove it. Actually took me almost an hour to get it apart. And this is something that should slide apart like a "trombone". All the brown crud and pitting on the slide told the story. I diligently cleaned and removed all the pitting (scotch brite) and removed all the brown crud, Then lightly lubed it with silicone grease. Bingo- Sliding back and forth easily now. Even after I torqued the rear axle nut- amazing.
I did have the wife help me bleed the brakes, she was so patient... So everything is good again in the world. Heading out tomorrow for pre-NATSTOC.
I would like to thank all that tried so hard to help me figure this frustrating situation out.
And I apologize if someone mentioned this in a previous post (Caliper slide) and I didn't catch it.
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OP
OP
, 
, 
Front slide pin bound up- this shows pitting and rust- brown goop was cleaned out of the slide bracket.
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OP
OP
This was it, I just didn't understand what you were talking about. I believe you had it all along.
Reginald
cyclepoke
Good job solving the problem. If you haven't done it, you need to grease those caliper pins. I clean out the old grease and I use water resistant axle grease every time I change the tire. Also, be sure to use Honda moly 60 grease on the splines and water resistant axle grease on the axle.
Blrfl
Natural Rider Enhancement
Glad you and Larry found it. I'll make a mental note to ask if the caliper floats freely next time this comes up.
--Mark
--Mark
I came in towards the end of the thread and missed your reply...great job trouble shooting and helping a fellow member get back on the road.
My hat is off to you sir!
Resurrecting your old thread, I believe I an having the same issue. Wondering how you eventually separated the bracket from the caliper? There are limited leverage points to use tp pry it free without doing some damage. Thanks in advance!
Jim