Front brake switch R&R

Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Messages
115
Location
Dewitt, Michigan
Bike
1997 ST1100
I had an interesting failure with the front brake light switch and I wanted to pass it along. On the way home a few days ago I discovered the brake lights would not come on when the front brakes were applied. The rear brake pedal activated the lights correctly. A faulty brake switch was confirmed by disconnecting the spade terminals and directly shorting the wiring connectors. I removed the switch and tested it with a meter. It was indicating 50 to 55 ohms resistance when the contacts were in the open state (little button pushed in). In the closed position, button out, resistance was zero, as expected. There must have been some corrosion in there that was causing the switch to not work correctly. So how do you get corrosion out of the inside of the sealed up switch housing? There are two little partially open-to-the-environment openings on the bottom of the housing and I squirted some chrome wheel cleaner into one of the openings. I figured the same chemical action that takes oxidation off from chrome wheels would work to dissolve the corrosion inside the housing. I let the chemical action boil out the corrosion for a few minutes while shaking and cycling the contacts. I used water to thoroughly rinse out the switch followed by compressed air and Deoxit contact cleaner. Now there is no resistance indicated when the contacts are in their open state. I put the switch back on and all is well.
I?m still going to replace the switch. Who knows the condition of the springs inside the little housing. I?ll bet they are corroded and may fail anyway. At least it?s working now.
 

wjbertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
4,411
Location
Ventura, CA
Mine failed too. Did not discover it until my AudioVox CCS-100 cruise control refused to disengage! That made for an exciting few moments until I tapped the rear brake and the CC immediately released. Even before looking I knew the front brake switch was probably toast. Sure enough, upon investigation, one of the wires was hanging loose as the connector lug on the switch had corroded and broken off. I could not remove the broken male connector spade from the female piece and ended up having to replace that too. I found an aftermaket source for the switch on ebay - much cheaper than OEM. I think it was K&L?
 

JPKalishek

Armadillo Kicker
Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Messages
510
Location
Menominee, Michigan
Bike
2 '91 ST 1100
Mine failed too. Did not discover it until my AudioVox CCS-100 cruise control refused to disengage! That made for an exciting few moments until I tapped the rear brake and the CC immediately released. Even before looking I knew the front brake switch was probably toast. Sure enough, upon investigation, one of the wires was hanging loose as the connector lug on the switch had corroded and broken off. I could not remove the broken male connector spade from the female piece and ended up having to replace that too. I found an aftermaket source for the switch on ebay - much cheaper than OEM. I think it was K&L?
noticed the lug broken on one of mine as well. Luckily it is on the bike I am currently not riding.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
787
Location
Lexington, KY
Bike
1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
Mine failed too. Did not discover it until my AudioVox CCS-100 cruise control refused to disengage! That made for an exciting few moments until I tapped the rear brake and the CC immediately released. Even before looking I knew the front brake switch was probably toast. Sure enough, upon investigation, one of the wires was hanging loose as the connector lug on the switch had corroded and broken off. I could not remove the broken male connector spade from the female piece and ended up having to replace that too. I found an aftermaket source for the switch on ebay - much cheaper than OEM. I think it was K&L?
This was the exact same situation that alerted me to a problem with this switch. However mine turned out to be on the other end, inside the hitachi connector. One of the pins had gotten loose and needed to be resoldered.
 

DaveWooster

'95 ST1100ALS and '98 Standard ST1100W
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
352
Location
Topeka, Kansas, USA
Bike
1995 ST1100A
STOC #
3480
I ruined two of those black, plastic switches by trying to test them for resistance using a digital "multi" meter. I concluded that they have something electronic in them, and one must be careful as to which way the electric current is flowing through them. At least note which wire goes on which spade terminal. (Has anyone ever posted the correct way to test one?)
 
Last edited:

wjbertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Feb 8, 2005
Messages
4,411
Location
Ventura, CA
Hmmm, nothing in there but some contacts in my case. A digital meter wouldn't put anywhere near the current through that switch that in normal use, the brake lights draw.
 

DaveWooster

'95 ST1100ALS and '98 Standard ST1100W
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
352
Location
Topeka, Kansas, USA
Bike
1995 ST1100A
STOC #
3480
I recommend leaving both wires connected and , if necessary, removing the switch by loosening its one screw.
 
OP
OP
Eagle59
Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Messages
115
Location
Dewitt, Michigan
Bike
1997 ST1100
I replaced the switch with an OEM unit from the dealership. It was only $13 or so as I remember. I still have the old switch. I'll have to do some more thorough metering on it but I'm pretty sure is just a simple "normally closed" switch that's kept in an open state when the brake lever is not is use. The factory wiring schematic seems to confirm that too. I don't think it matters which spade terminals connect to the wiring harness. If it did, you'd think they would have a polarized connector or something. I'll have to check it out and report back.
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
2,210
Location
West Michigan
Bike
'98 ST1100
STOC #
8470
Hmmm, nothing in there but some contacts in my case. A digital meter wouldn't put anywhere near the current through that switch that in normal use, the brake lights draw.
+2 . I replaced my front brake switch on my '98 last year as a PM measure - they are cheap. Nothing but a mechanical switch.
 
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