Some of you may not believe this but my bought new in 1992 ST1100 still has the original bulbs in the headlight housing. I know this because I would have remembered having to shell out $46.90 plus tax for 2 new ones from mother Honda. Now the question is what bulbs to install since the left one burnt out last week? I'm going to replace both bulbs at the same time since I've read it's a challenging operation requiring patience. I can get the HELLA HLA-H83140101 H4 12V 60/55W Halogen Bulbs overnight from Amazon for $5.78 a bulb but I'm not sure if they will work on this bike or how long they will last once installed or if they will have the same reflective properties as the stock bulbs. I've read several different posts with many replies on this subject including VFR owners and it seems there are about as many opinions on bulbs as there are on which oil to use. Any help would be appreciated.
UPDATED POST HERE:
John O has already answered the questions about bulbs in the US model ST1100. Since I'm still running the original 28 amp alternator I'm going to stay with the OEM 45/45w bulbs even though they cost more. Due to eye problems (cataracts and lotsa floaters) I never ride after dark so bulb brightness isn't an issue for me. Thanks to everyone for the input on this subject.
John OoSTerhuis
06-28-2012, 05:33 PM
A couple of points using H-4 bulbs in a USA ST1100 --
The position of the filaments is important - straight in (not canted) and at the correct depth designed for the headlight module reflectors.
Snipping just the two lower tabs will result in a bulb canted up and lousy light projection.
Snipping all three tabs will result in the bulb sitting too far into the opening in the module: 3mm too far, I just measured mine as I replaced it with a Euro version today. Plus, the bulb can possibly rotate.
The base of the H-4/9003 bulb must be even with the bottom of the tab recesses in the headlight module, hence the nail trick or the more elegant thin shim solution.
N.B. - it's important that the base of the H-4 rests perfectly flat on the entire shim. One thing that's often missed when snipping the two lower tabs off is to finish the job by carefully flattening the remaining bulge at the base of the tab with a vice-grips or sum such. Failure to do so will result in the bulb being canted down.
John
UPDATED POST HERE:
John O has already answered the questions about bulbs in the US model ST1100. Since I'm still running the original 28 amp alternator I'm going to stay with the OEM 45/45w bulbs even though they cost more. Due to eye problems (cataracts and lotsa floaters) I never ride after dark so bulb brightness isn't an issue for me. Thanks to everyone for the input on this subject.
John OoSTerhuis
06-28-2012, 05:33 PM
A couple of points using H-4 bulbs in a USA ST1100 --
The position of the filaments is important - straight in (not canted) and at the correct depth designed for the headlight module reflectors.
Snipping just the two lower tabs will result in a bulb canted up and lousy light projection.
Snipping all three tabs will result in the bulb sitting too far into the opening in the module: 3mm too far, I just measured mine as I replaced it with a Euro version today. Plus, the bulb can possibly rotate.
The base of the H-4/9003 bulb must be even with the bottom of the tab recesses in the headlight module, hence the nail trick or the more elegant thin shim solution.
N.B. - it's important that the base of the H-4 rests perfectly flat on the entire shim. One thing that's often missed when snipping the two lower tabs off is to finish the job by carefully flattening the remaining bulge at the base of the tab with a vice-grips or sum such. Failure to do so will result in the bulb being canted down.
John
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Keep me posted - I'm in no rush as I still need to purchase the shims...
