My new Commuter 2015 KLR650

I'm happy to announce that after many years (kids have grown) I've been able to buy brand new KLR. It's not as smooth as ST, so much easier and fun commuting especially in heavy traffic that is almost every day in NYC.
I've farkled it up as you can see on pics. Any advice or suggestions from you KLR guys?


Mark

Do the 'Doo. Check the KLR forum and you'll see it mentioned. I ordered the kit as soon as I bought the bike and at my 1k mile service I did the work- my 'doohickey was already broken! I also pulled the right side cover and cleaned the oil screen- mine was full of RTV from assembly, definitely limiting flow. If you will be riding much or hard, then do yourself a favor and order the subframe bolt upgrade kit (full drill through is best) and the master locknut kit to keep fasteners from bailing off the bike.

Beyond that, it was mostly just normal farkles I added to my '06 to make it a good commuter and semi long distance bike.

Pic of my counterbalance chain adjuster (Doohickey) when I pulled it at 1k miles. Do NOT assume that since your bike is new, you can wait:

Thanks for advise. I've read on KLR forum that on '15 models it's enough to do the Doo after few Ks miles but you're right, better to be sure than sorry especially if this is Achilles heel of KLRs. I'm gonna order it now. Thanks


Mark

I liked the change at speed with a 16 tooth up front, came out of the hole same as stock for me on my 07,,seat concepts upgrade was inexpensive and felt so much more comfortable, in hot weather I ran no windscreen, other wise a Cee Bailey plus 7 and a lip, second gen may be different for screen upgrades. Oh and filling the handlebar with ball bearings with Throttlemiesters heavy bar end weights just about stopped the vibes 95%.
They are fun, crummy MPG on mine- lucky to get 50, so easy to use wfo a lot.

Good luck with your new KLR,surprised that Kawasaki haven't rectified this known problem though,this guy seems to know his stuff,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsYTaI1vL08

maximark said:

I'm happy to announce that after many years (kids have grown) I've been able to buy brand new KLR. It's not as smooth as ST, so much easier and fun commuting especially in heavy traffic that is almost every day in NYC.
I've farkled it up as you can see on pics. Any advice or suggestions from you KLR guys?


Mark

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Check your oil level at every fillup. Keep it at the top of the sight glass. If you run over 5k RPMs, they all use a little oil.

The Shinko 705 is a great street tire.

Do the Doo with Eagle Mike components. Be sure to use the torsion spring. I have done three late model KLRs with low mileage and they all needed this done. The problem is the spring. You may borrow my tools for postage each way, PM me if you want them.

The stock battery is horrible, get this:
http://www.batterymart.com/p-Big-Crank-ETX15L-Battery.html?Category_Code=kawasaki-kl650a-klr-battery

The stock seat is horribler, although I am told the new seats are a little better. Get a Sargent or a Corbin. They come in high or low. Check out Seat Concepts too.

The sidestand is about an inch too long. I am gonna shorten mine.

I put heated grips on mine, love them in the wintertime:
http://www.motosport.com/symtec-heat-demon-motorcycle-grip-heaters?code=CRITEO-DIRT&utm_campaign=Retargeting&utm_source=Criteo&utm_medium=Retargeting

Run yourself a relay supplied fusebox for accessories.

If I lived where you do, I would have one of these:
http://www.happy-trail.com/KLR650/LED-Tail-Light-Kit-WOW/KLR650.aspx

And these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/bad-boy-air-horn-94117.html

I have them anyway, anything to get the attention of brain dead cagers.

broc11 said:

Good luck with your new KLR,surprised that Kawasaki haven't rectified this known problem though,this guy seems to know his stuff,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsYTaI1vL08

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This is a very good video for this procedure, but the shop manual specifies 144 ft/lbs torque for the rotor bolt, dry threads, on a post 2008 KLR. The crankshaft taper and rotor contact with the crankshaft are installed dry as well. A new rotor bolt is to be used.

72 INCH/lbs for the cover bolts.

So far I have no loss of oil but it gets black rather quickly and I wonder why.
For front, Denali DM with KLR brackets from twisted throttle are doing great job. Capers are a lot more often getting out of the way even when I'm splitting lanes, and I've installed SoundBomb with KLR bracket also from twisted throttle. For brake light I've installed LIN3 strobe. But that WOW light looks interesting. I'm gonna look into that.
Doohickey is on it's way. Only tool I'll have to figure out is wrench to hold rotor on alternator. I should be able to bend one with torch- I think...
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/kawasaki/klr650e-08-dual-sport?limit=144

thanks for all advice

Mark

It is pretty normal for KLR's to have the oil darken pretty quickly. Most large singles will due to some compression blow-by - totally normal.

I do think you should add a few more lights however - at night people will think they are being followed by the mother ship from Close Encounters LOL

I also love my KLR.

Dan

maximark said:

So far I have no loss of oil but it gets black rather quickly and I wonder why.
For front, Denali DM with KLR brackets from twisted throttle are doing great job. Capers are a lot more often getting out of the way even when I'm splitting lanes, and I've installed SoundBomb with KLR bracket also from twisted throttle. For brake light I've installed LIN3 strobe. But that WOW light looks interesting. I'm gonna look into that.
Doohickey is on it's way. Only tool I'll have to figure out is wrench to hold rotor on alternator. I should be able to bend one with torch- I think...
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/kawasaki/klr650e-08-dual-sport?limit=144 thanks for all advice

Mark

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You will end up ruining a good 32mm or 1.25" open end wrench trying to heat and bend it to fit into the rotor cup. You have to cut, then bend and weld to fabricate this tool. Best to use the EM rotor holder and flywheel puller. Again, you can borrow mine for postage both ways. The EM puller is made of hardened steel, a regular bolt substitute could strip out. Be sure to grease the threads and the end of the puller before attempting to remove the flywheel.

bdalameda said:

I do think you should add a few more lights however - at night people will think they are being followed by the mother ship from Close Encounters LOL

I also love my KLR.

Dan

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LOL you're right! Thats the best way how to get slow cages from left lane.

Mark

I forgot to add that from the factory, KLRs come with very little grease on the swingarm bearings, rear suspension linkage and steering head bearings.
The Unitrack bolt is very difficult to get out once oxidation takes place. Take all of this apart at first opportunity and grease with waterproof grease, especially if you ride off road at all.
Do your first valve check at about 7k miles.

Updated pictures, it is going the way I intended- midsize ADV and I love it.( and yes. More lights...lol)


Mark

Looking good Mark!

What brand/maker of engine protection bars/crash bars do you have installed?

Also, did you do the larger front brake rotor/caliper relocation modification? I can't quite tell from photo #2. If so what brand of parts did you use for that?

I watched that video with great interest as mechanical design is my thing (and it is really well done). I have been around Japanese bikes for several decades and difficulties with chain tensioners seems to be a recurring theme. I have recently acquired a number of editions of a Brit Mag called Practical Sportsbikes which is all about maintaining, rebuilding, and restoring 70s+ sport and adventure bikes and nearly EVERY SINGLE article recommends replacing the cam or balancer chain tensioner in nearly every single Japanese model from all of the OEMs. The job that Kawi did on the KLR balancer tensioned is clearly extremely poor and H, Y and S all have the same type of crummy design/materials issues on many (most?) models. Remarkable, given the excellent job that these outfits did on almost every other part of every model for over 50 years.

Nice job on your personal customization Mark.
I always liked the looks of the KLR, to me the styling keeps getting better every time is see a newer one.
That vibrant Kawasaki green is the way to go also.
Can't wait to see what your damaged Doohickey and your Spring looks like.
That guy that did the video should send all those worn parts back to Kawasaki to wake them up.:-|:neutral:

Partsmonkey said:

Looking good Mark!

What brand/maker of engine protection bars/crash bars do you have installed?

Also, did you do the larger front brake rotor/caliper relocation modification? I can't quite tell from photo #2. If so what brand of parts did you use for that?

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thank you, crash bars are GIVI and front brake is EBC 320mm. I got it from Rocky Mountain ATV as a kit rotor and bracket. They also have complete set rotor, bracket, pads and SS braided hose, I think it's Galfer.

Mark

Smash said:

Haha that's some lights! I assume you're running a voltmeter? Did you go with the upper dash setup? My wife and I both have the lower dash as we are happy with the stock screens. We also run 16 tooth up front.

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All the lights are LED. that includes headlight, tail light, turn signals (front are switchbacks), dash lights. I have voltmeter ready in garage, just never installed it. I don't see battery going weaker so I think that lights don't draw too much for alternator to charge the battery.
I've experimented with sprockets and 14/ 44 is good ratio for me. I did over 90mph with this and still can pop that wheel in air if I want to.


Mark

I used these, they work really good on my KLR and also on my 88 accord (H4 version) that I use for commuting when cold.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111669931476?ru=http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=111669931476&_rdc=1

what are the "prevailing torque nuts"? I just bought a nut for front sprocket as spare, it was described as something better but frankly didn't analyze- just bought a spare. Do you have a link to those?

BTW, the tires I've installed are Pirelli scorpion trail II and they are just amazing! Rear is 140/80 R17 because I couldn't find 130. I don't feel tar snakes even on wet at all. They're really great. I highly recommend those if you commute.

Smash, I will have one more of the Sena boom if you'd need. It's installed on another helmet that's sitting on shelf. Let me know.

Mark