bike died while riding, broken bolt code 19

woodybelle

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2006 ST1300
Re: died while riding

Nice of you to take the time to share It is very interesting to read and see what happened.
 

Kevin_56

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Montfort, Wisconsin
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STOC #
6495
Re: died while riding

I was curoius as to what was missing so I found it in the parts manual I have. Looks like part 17 is your failed bolt. 22 washer is some where along with 16.

failed part.jpg
 
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OP
st1300r
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Apr 25, 2007
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st1300 '04
STOC #
7163
Re: died while riding

Nothing is missing except the glue that held the bolt together.
All parts accounted for (not all are in the photos)

The tone wheel half the gear pack and the washer fell into the cover when I pulled it.
One of the 3 springs found it's way to the oil pan.

Curt's clutch replacement article shows what it's supposed to look like.
 
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st1300r
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st1300 '04
STOC #
7163
Re: died while riding

She's out. As easy as it was my dollar says it simply loosened then fatigued.
bolt.jpg


Now what's your preferred brand of gasket remover and any tricks to break the oil pan free :)
 
Last edited:

nerSTeve

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Jan 15, 2014
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NH
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2007 ST1300A
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Re: died while riding

Well kiss my.... the subject line really needs to be changed! I thought we lost another. Damn. Don't do that!
 
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st1300r
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st1300 '04
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Re: died while riding

LOL. Now that you mention it prolly shoulda started that with "engine".
I was a little jazzed standing on the side of the road when I type that.
 
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st1300r
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st1300 '04
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Re: died while riding

Update;
So far the antifreeze is antifreeze colored, oil, oil colored. No drips.
Fired right up on the 1st button push.

- EBC ct021 clutch basket tool works a treat. The clutch outer came off for 2 reasons. It felt wobbly. That turned out to be the crank driving gear assy loosing it's springs (anti back lash I guess) when the bolt broke. The needle bearings/bushing were fine. 2nd it was the only way I could figure to tension the springs.
1- pull the basket to make room.
2- put the main gear on the keyed crank shaft.
3- load the 3 springs in.
4- hold the outer unkeyed part of the drive gear on to hold the springs in and loosely install the crank bolt/washer.
5- partially install the basket to engage the outer drive gear, and rotate it to load the springs by one gear pitch and slide the basket home and hand tighten nut.
6- remove the crank bolt/washer hold the gear spring sandwich together. Install the keyed crank position tone wheel and put the bolt/washer back on.
7- jamb a pc of brass or taped screw driver etc. between the clutch driven gear and crank drive gear and torque the crank bolt.

That will keep the drive gear sandwich stable and let you play with the clutch outer and water pump drive gear behind it.

It'll make sense if you have to do it. The idea being getting 1 tooth of load on the springs and aligned well enough to get the clutch outer basket fully home.

The ct-021 holds the basket inner and outer pcs together. A brick was handy under it's handle to keep it from spinning then torque the new clutch nut and stake.
Make sure the 4 pins on the water pump drive gear are engaged before torquing and the chain is driving the water pump driven gear.

- Impact wrench REALLY makes the clutch nut a 2 second job to get off.
(Note chuck the old one and get a new nut)
I did grind a little of the stake off to get it to pry up from the crank shaft keyway.
Needs a 30mm 12 pt. The check out girl at Harbor Freight asked if I was sure I wanted the 12pt. Must be a wrencher ;)

- At 97k the clutch springs were at their service limit. Clutch plates and friction disks were nominal. Took them out to check for any aluminum shrapnel, they were fine.

-I used the permatex ultra gray (advertised as the 3bond equivalent) I used the permatex finger tight to seat the oil pan, wait an hour and then torque directions. Prolly any non acid cure oil resistant rtv would work there.

My guess is the crank bolt was not properly tightened at that factory and fatigued. If I didn't mention already in this thread, I just put my finger in the crank shaft hole and walked the piece out. It definitely didn't feel like stretched threads from over torquing. It's probably a one off, but I suppose you could torque that bolt thru the timing access plug.
 
Joined
May 3, 2011
Messages
318
Location
Rochester, NY
Bike
2008 ST1300
STOC #
8441
Wow, what a nightmare, and handled in STYLE! Nice job.
FWIW... IME, a bolt that snaps near the head was caused by over-torquing, not loosening, due to all the tension force on the head.
 
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