Re: died while riding
Update;
So far the antifreeze is antifreeze colored, oil, oil colored. No drips.
Fired right up on the 1st button push.
- EBC ct021 clutch basket tool works a treat. The clutch outer came off for 2 reasons. It felt wobbly. That turned out to be the crank driving gear assy loosing it's springs (anti back lash I guess) when the bolt broke. The needle bearings/bushing were fine. 2nd it was the only way I could figure to tension the springs.
1- pull the basket to make room.
2- put the main gear on the keyed crank shaft.
3- load the 3 springs in.
4- hold the outer unkeyed part of the drive gear on to hold the springs in and loosely install the crank bolt/washer.
5- partially install the basket to engage the outer drive gear, and rotate it to load the springs by one gear pitch and slide the basket home and hand tighten nut.
6- remove the crank bolt/washer hold the gear spring sandwich together. Install the keyed crank position tone wheel and put the bolt/washer back on.
7- jamb a pc of brass or taped screw driver etc. between the clutch driven gear and crank drive gear and torque the crank bolt.
That will keep the drive gear sandwich stable and let you play with the clutch outer and water pump drive gear behind it.
It'll make sense if you have to do it. The idea being getting 1 tooth of load on the springs and aligned well enough to get the clutch outer basket fully home.
The ct-021 holds the basket inner and outer pcs together. A brick was handy under it's handle to keep it from spinning then torque the new clutch nut and stake.
Make sure the 4 pins on the water pump drive gear are engaged before torquing and the chain is driving the water pump driven gear.
- Impact wrench REALLY makes the clutch nut a 2 second job to get off.
(Note chuck the old one and get a new nut)
I did grind a little of the stake off to get it to pry up from the crank shaft keyway.
Needs a 30mm
12 pt. The check out girl at Harbor Freight asked if I was sure I wanted the 12pt. Must be a wrencher
- At 97k the clutch springs were at their service limit. Clutch plates and friction disks were nominal. Took them out to check for any aluminum shrapnel, they were fine.
-I used the permatex ultra gray (advertised as the 3bond equivalent) I used the permatex finger tight to seat the oil pan, wait an hour and then torque directions. Prolly any non acid cure oil resistant rtv would work there.
My guess is the crank bolt was not properly tightened at that factory and fatigued. If I didn't mention already in this thread, I just put my finger in the crank shaft hole and walked the piece out. It definitely didn't feel like stretched threads from over torquing. It's probably a one off, but I suppose you could torque that bolt thru the timing access plug.