40 Amp Upgrade Questions

Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Messages
202
Location
Ipswich MA
Bike
1994 ST1100 ABS
STOC #
8852
Ok.. so far so very good.... First round of questions:


  1. When you tighten the alt gear nut onto the shaft.... how tight do you tighten it? There is that big flat washer (spring loaded because of it's shape?). Do I Loctight the shaft and tighten the nut down snug? or very tight?
  2. When replacing the new alt, the tin cover... the alt won't fit unless I remove that cover? Or will it?

Thanks
 
OP
OP
IpswichST
Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Messages
202
Location
Ipswich MA
Bike
1994 ST1100 ABS
STOC #
8852
New alt is in...

swingarm on....BUT... I dont like the torque on the left side. The pivot bolt with the crown nut just seems to go in and in. The torque is not that tight (around 20lbs) and when I tighten it the swingarm doesnt swing smooth. It's like it is tight and bound a little. Im going to pull that side and take a look see to make sure it is in properly.

ELECTRICAL HOOKUP:

Ive read how you eliminate the yellow wires (done) and cut the white (done and pulled out). You also cut and cap the white/red one going to the starter solenoid. CAN you just eliminate that wire all together? Go all the way to the starter solenoid and pull it out? There is another wire (black?) that you cut and cap. Ill cap that.

Also... do I build my own jumper to go from the new fuse back to the starter solenoid and attach it to the battery lead?

Thanks!
 
OP
OP
IpswichST
Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Messages
202
Location
Ipswich MA
Bike
1994 ST1100 ABS
STOC #
8852
It's a beautiful thing...

Before: previous owner "fix" - - After: shiny and new and ready to go to work

Alt 1.jpg. . . . . . . . . . 40Amp - 1.jpg

Electrical... As I asked above... using the pic below ...

VRR Wires.jpg

- All 3 yellow wires were removed completely when I pulled the lead from the old 28A alt.
- The red/white lead was also removed completely all the way back to the starter solenoid. The wire's plug pulled off of the solenoid's spade. Is that ok? Is it not needed anymore?
- The white wire was also removed completely all the way back to the 2P connector and cut flush .
- That last black VRR wire was just cut and capped.
 
OP
OP
IpswichST
Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Messages
202
Location
Ipswich MA
Bike
1994 ST1100 ABS
STOC #
8852
Swingarm torquing uncertainty has been addressed and is fine. As usual... human error.

Littelfuse block has been found at local Pep Boys and installed. No dust cover available.

Wire Harness all cleaned up and hopefully in good nik. BUT.... I think I need to make sure my starter solenoid wires are all there.. (the ones that are necessary).
- Looking at the starter solenoid there are 4 spades. 2 in the front, 2 in the back. Can anyone tell me the wire colors going to each spade? And are any open?
 
OP
OP
IpswichST
Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Messages
202
Location
Ipswich MA
Bike
1994 ST1100 ABS
STOC #
8852
Garysp...

I purchased my parts from Partzilla. Im cheap (frugal), I like to shop around and after looking for the parts Partzilla was the least expensive place. They are all OEM so no worries there.

The parts list is everything you will need. When you are ready "the Kit" will tell you what you need to know. I did my upgrade... could have taken much less time than it did but I was limited to the time I could spend. Took me 1 week picking away (with days off in between picks). And in the end.... if you have half a brain and are somewhat mechanically inclined, it is not that difficult.
 
OP
OP
IpswichST
Joined
Jan 5, 2013
Messages
202
Location
Ipswich MA
Bike
1994 ST1100 ABS
STOC #
8852
FINISHED !!

The 40Amp upgrade is officially complete. My questions posted in previous posts were in the end answered by myself (John did say to read the schematic... something I did but when told I took a closer look and found the answer... but then again... did I? Let me get my facts straight and Ill come back to this later).

The kit, the service manual, and my Haynes manual was all that was needed. I [like others] fashioned a gravity fed fuel source to test my work before I put everything back together and when I cranked her up and heard no loud screeches, when nothing smelled like it was burning, when I put my multi-meter leads on the battery and saw that wonderful "14+" on the display I found myself smiling. Happy I did it.. glad is is done!

Teaser to my red wire mystery... Question... would the Red Wire Bypass alter the typical re-wire after the 40 Amp upgrade? Ill chime in later with my thoughts.

Finally, John, now that I am done with "the kit" do I simply hold onto it until instructed to send it to the next upgrade'er?
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
8,537
Age
77
Location
Kingman, Arizona
Bike
2000 ST1100 ABS TCS
STOC #
004
As a do-er and assistant on many alternator swaps, can not give enuff praise to John Oo's tool kit. :D

I just did the red wire mod on both my STs, got +.8VDC at the aux meter on STick and +.5 on lipSTick. Worth the effort to me. :D
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
5,217
Location
Bettendorf, Iowa
Bike
1991 SSMST1100
STOC #
1058
FINISHED !!

The 40Amp upgrade is officially complete....
Question... would the Red Wire Bypass alter the typical re-wire after the 40 Amp upgrade?....
Congrats, Thomas. Keep the kit for now and make your obligatory after action report per the terms of the tool kit loan agreement. That often generates a new request, encouraged by your success.

The red wire bypass still leaves the red/white wire leading from the starter-relay/main-fuse unit available for an unswitched power source, if the 30amp fuse is left in. BTDT

JuST to be clear, in the schematic, note the two leads from the main fuse. The red wire bypass just eliminates that one, the red/white remains.

John
via iPhone 6
 
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