New to ST and looking at a project

I'm reposting this as I realized much of it didn't belong in the intro section.

I've been curious about moving up from my '80 CX500 to something more modern and have been eyeing a 4-5th gen VFR, or an ST1100. I've located a '95 ST1100 just miles from my house - but it has a bad fuel pump and the current owner is trying to retrofit it with a pump and regulator. Apparently the OEM pumps are outrageously priced and I wondered how big of a retrofit project it should be? We were able to fire it up briefly after some fiddling but it over pressurizes the float bowls and gas flows out the overflow tubes right away. We only ran it about 10 seconds but it sounded like an engine. I realized I'll need to clean the tank and probably coat it, and might have to kit the carbs as well. I do have an ultrasonic cleaner at least. I looked through the fuel pump thread which is pretty long - is there a general consensus on what works as a reasonably priced replacement to the OEM one?

It's currently a barn find, and all very dusty and panels are off - nothing more than some fading and a couple of cracks, but no serious damage that I can tell. Lights, horn starter all work. Brakes aren't frozen. It needs new set of keys and locks but seems like a viable project. I want to head back and give the swingarm a look too, and if we get it running again, will check the output from the alternator. Timing belt would be on a short list of things to replace. I think mileage was in the mid 50's. Thoughts, comments, concerns?

Any advice is appreciated!

Dan

There are several threads on this forum about replacing the ST1100 fuel pump with a non-stock item. Here's one -

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?89040-ST1100-Fuel-Pump-Replacement

His asking price is less than half of what I've seen them going for down here - he received it as payment for a project and isn't emotionally vested in it. I'm not currently planning any big trips, and think it will mostly be for commuting. Besides items like swingarm, alternator, fuel pump etc, are there any specific trouble points to look for for the '95 era STs?

dkruitz said:

Besides items like swingarm, alternator, fuel pump etc, are there any specific trouble points to look for for the '95 era STs?

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Rear end drive splines.

As in be sure to grease them so they don't stick, or do they actually corrode away?

I still haven't decided either way on the ST - I do realize it's a project.

Unless you're getting it for next to nothing and just like projects, you'll be much better off getting one in good running and cosmetic condition.

dkruitz said:

As in be sure to grease them so they don't stick, or do they actually corrode away?

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Lubed every tire change they will last "forever", providing you use the specified lube - Honda Moly 60, or a similar high (60%) molybdenum content lube.

I agree with the current sentiment... Unless you just really want that headache, walk away... The 1100's are great machines and with just the most basic maintenance, they will run forever. It sounds like that one you found hasn't even had that. The fact that all the plastic is off is a big red flag, considering you can change the fuel pump out with just the seat removed. If it sat for any amount of time then you could have electrical issues along with all the expensive rubber bits going to pot...

Gas coming out of the floats could just be stuck floats... not a big deal.
The rear splines have to look very clean, and at 40k they should.
The 28 amp alt will fail; but, you're in Texas you will not have to run any electrics because it is always hot in Texas... right?

All the fluids, sparkplugs, tires, battery, new carb boots (isolators) and since you're going to have carbs out I'd change the Aluminum elbows and their washers that are under the carbs.

Good luck!

I've got the bike home and got it for what I think was a good price, and have started on this project. I have a replacement gas tank in hand and fuel pump is on it's way. It starts and runs pretty decently as is. Additionally, it had the 40-amp alternator upgrade previously done. I'm getting ready to flush the coolant, do an oil change, reardrive and brake fluid.

Now for the obligatory, dreaded oil question - on my '80 CX500 (grandfather to this V4) lots of folks on the CX500 forum use and recommend the Rotella T oil. Anyone here recommend that too, or is it best to stick with Honda GN4?

I (and I think many others here) use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic oil (5W40) with no issues in their STs. It's a great oil for a great price (around $20 per gallon) at Walmart.

OK thanks - I figured it shouldn't hurt to go full synthetic - if nothing for the fact of the heat here in Texas.

Congrats on the bike. I'm just nearing completion on a '91 project bike I got at a good price, but in tools, materials, and parts I needed, I've added about 72% of the original purchase price to it, so I've probably got more into it now than it's really worth, but still worth it to me! (okay, some of it is stuff I chose to replace, rather than had to, and there's Farkle costs in there too.)

Good luck with the project.

Familiarizing myself further with the bike. Old tank is out - new one in hand - I'm going to work on getting it shipshape tonight. Further cleaned more of the barn dust off everything (see photo for the before of the under tank area - cavernous!) I've removed/bypassed the petcock, and continuing to see what's what between the bike and the manual.B

BTW - is the square tube cross brace under the tank used as a jack/lift point at all? It's open at both ends and I wondered if the factory used it like that?

Progress update on getting this old gal shipshape again. Fuel pump is on it's way so I took to derusting the little that was in the replacment tank. I love the electrolysis method and have played with it over a decade on various items. BTW, the tank is very heavy when full of water! This is the first "pass" of treatment. Tonight, I'll put a pump on and fill the tank further and drop the electrode down the filler neck to get that side of the tank.

Congrats on having the wherewithal to move forward with this project. I had the CX650E, did the "triple bypass" on that bike and thoroughly enjoyed getting dirty doing all of it. HOWEVER, I have no regrets selling the CX and moving up to the ST1100. You will find it absolutely stunning to drive. While loyalties to past models will hold some heart strings, they will be forgotten pretty quickly once you start feeling the power of the ST.

I think so too - I think the ST is just going to be so much more capable. I now have the tank really clean rust wise and I've decided to do a belt and suspenders approach - I bought a quart of Red Kote and will coat it tomorrow with any luck. Pump should be in any day now too.

Oh, and I used to live in your neck of the woods in King City!

Johnny Canuck said:

Congrats on having the wherewithal to move forward with this project. I had the CX650E, did the "triple bypass" on that bike and thoroughly enjoyed getting dirty doing all of it. HOWEVER, I have no regrets selling the CX and moving up to the ST1100. You will find it absolutely stunning to drive. While loyalties to past models will hold some heart strings, they will be forgotten pretty quickly once you start feeling the power of the ST.

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I did a complete gas tank de-rusting over last winter's maintenance period. I went the Evapo-Rust route followed up with a Kreem treatment. That went well but please explain the electrolysis method. Your pic looks like you are using a 12v battery charger. What solution do you use in the tank?

If you google it you can find a few articles online - it works great for cleaning up old tools too. I use a teaspoon (very approx) of Arm and Hammer WASHING soda per gallon of water. Hook the negative lead up to the part you want to de-rust, then positive lead to a sacrificial piece of steel (NOT stainless) and let it run. make sure the + side doesn't contact the - side of the circuit. I used electrical tape on the rod end and sides where it would contact the tank. Letting it run overlong won't hurt. You'll get some black left over which I've heard is carbon. Should just scrub off with light effort.

Bike is now running, has passed safety inspection and just got it plated at lunch - I'm legit - woohoo!