R100 with Rabid Transit, it weren't good.The R100RS fairing is legendary. Great protection and great manners at speed.
R100 with Rabid Transit, it weren't good.The R100RS fairing is legendary. Great protection and great manners at speed.
Well the 98 VFR was a complete redesign. No clue if it was for better or worse. I got it beginning last season with about 3500 miles and sold it the other day with about 8000.If you need to crank the shock preload before getting it to respond, then I would add some fluid to the circuit. I bought mine w/ 1185 miles & rode it 18k miles before I checked the preload. Sure enough, the circuit needed oil. Adjusting the preload to the recommended setting made a positive difference for me.
I loved the way the bike handled before the adjustment...I love it even better now. I might add I do not go triple digits.
I weigh 160, ride w/ full gear & use 42 psi F & R.
Your comments about the VFR are interesting. I put 35k miles on a new 95 VFR. I never had confidence in the suspension. I was so frustrated, I put in RaceTech springs & Gold Valves. Improved my confidence marginally.
I think a lot of our handling preferences are formed by what's comfortable to each one of us.
I hope you enjoy your new ride!!
When I travel across Pennsylvania longitudinally I often travel with the wind shield all the way down.The BIG news is I wound the ST up and wound the windshield down and she handled pretty darn nice.
Okay I need to ask about this. I have looked in the service manual and have not found anything that describes adding fluid to the circuit on the rear shock. I have seen mention of this in another post but no reference on how to do this.If you need to crank the shock preload before getting it to respond, then I would add some fluid to the circuit.
Here you go https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?106715-ST1300-Pre-load-Fluid-ReplacementOkay I need to ask about this. I have looked in the service manual and have not found anything that describes adding fluid to the circuit on the rear shock. I have seen mention of this in another post but no reference on how to do this.
What am I missing here? please provide a link or a reference in the service manual.
+1I got my 2008 ST1300 in April this year and it is bone stock, factory wind screen, handlebars, suspension, etc. with 14k miles. I moved to this bike from a 1991 ST1100. A couple of things I noticed immediately are windscreen position at high speeds and dirty air from semis. I found that a slight movement down on the windscreen makes a big difference. the next thing I noticed is my body weight on the handlebars. I found that my ST1300 requires a light touch on the bars as soon as I get heavy handed the bike wonders. That is the main reason I took the riser block out that the PO had installed. There was to much leverage on the bars with it in.
As suggested above check the suspension and other mechanical things too.
BINGO on that Dave. Wayyyyyy under spring/sprung.The bikes are under spring for all but the lightest of riders in the 145-165 lb range. Preload helps cope but does not really raise ride height enough to quicken steering.
Lucky I'm the Japanese ideal at 150 lbs in the shower and the spring rates are good for me. With 16mm of fork preload and a RaceTech rework of the shock I've been happy a long time. From zero to 143BINGO on that Dave. Wayyyyyy under spring/sprung.
I dont know why but I really like my dampening and spring rates. Big heavy bike handles our bumps and potholes well for me. I'm 185 lbs. But I am so not looking for trouble either.Lucky I'm the Japanese ideal at 150 lbs in the shower and the spring rates are good for me. With 16mm of fork preload and a RaceTech rework of the shock I've been happy a long time. From zero to 143
I'm trying to get there but my eyes and my mouth just won't cooperate. :22yikes: :eat2:Lucky I'm the Japanese ideal at 150 lbs