Headlight switched one off

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Was parked on the hard shoulder the other night with a friend who had broken down and i left the bike idling for a while as it was dark and didn't want to run the battery down using the hazard lights. Noticed after a few minutes the throttle side head light would go out and only leave the two side lights and the near side headlight on, i flicked the main beam on and the throttle side headlight came back. Is this normal or is there something wrong?


Many Thanks

Lee
 

T_C

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Take the switch apart and check/clean the contacts.

If you have some electric grease, put a little on the contacts.
 
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So as far as your aware the headlight should stay on then and not switch off?


Didn't know if it was the ecu just saving some power as it was idling for a few minutes

Many Thanks

lee
 
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Could well be some corroded contacts in the switch pod.
UK spec bikes might be a little different with the flash to pass button but US spec bikes get corroded drive/pass switch and the 2nd set of contacts in the starter switch.
 
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The headlight is upgraded i believe to hid's would this make a difference?
 

T_C

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The headlight is upgraded i believe to hid's would this make a difference?
Yes... adds a few more complexities.
Also will then need to know how/what was done for power and switching. Did they use a relay and separate electric feed for the main power to the ballast or are they trying to suck the power through the stock headlight wiring.
 
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"Didn't know if it was the ecu just saving some power as it was idling for a few minutes"

ST ECU's are not nearly that smart...

mine kinda operates the fuel injection... this ain't a BMW... (thank the gods)
 
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Don't know much about HID's - but what's the chances the voltage dropped while the alternator was at idle speed so not putting out a full charge. The HID would drop below a voltage threshold and turn itself off. The voltage now remains a bit more constant or even rising as only one HID is lit, and it stays like that until you flick the low/high beam switch, when the voltage is now high enough to run both HID's - and the cycle repeats.
 
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i switched the hazards on for a while then started the bike to charge the battery and then while it was ticking over i noticed the right hand light had turned off, when i switched the main beam on and then turned it off the light came back on. I believe it did it again and then when i went to restart the bike after having the hazards on it wouldn't start, so i had to bump it. i have been riding it since and have done over 300 miles and all seems fine with the headlight. I have noticed though that the bike would drop it's revs at idle and stall, Has done it once when idling while i get my lid on then while i was riding back but noticed it so kept the revs up, seems fine now though.
 
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Don't know much about HID's - but what's the chances the voltage dropped while the alternator was at idle speed so not putting out a full charge. The HID would drop below a voltage threshold and turn itself off. The voltage now remains a bit more constant or even rising as only one HID is lit, and it stays like that until you flick the low/high beam switch, when the voltage is now high enough to run both HID's - and the cycle repeats.

This was my way of thinking, Seems to make sense. when it did it for the second time though i did blip the throttle thinking it may come back on, but it didn't until i turned the main beam on.
 

Avtrician

Idle speed should be 1000 to 1200 RPM, and at that speed the alternator should put out 13.8 to 14.2 volts, plenty to keep the lights on and engine running. Not sure about HID lights, the specs may vary, but if your idle is too low, then maybe the volts could drop enough for the HID power supply to turn off. The headlights should stay on, there is no system on a standard bike to switch one off when idling
 
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Wondering if anyone could steer me in the right direction, I believe my headlights are shining a little too high. I have tried turning down the knob on the dash but the headlights don't seem to move.

I have some HID Fitted.


Many Thanks

Lee
 
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It takes a while for the motor to move them. If you listen closely you can hear the headlamp motor with the bike off key on when you turn the knob.
For mechanical adjustment for a given knob setting use a socket, hex key, or phillips screw driver on the head light adjustment nut. CW should move them down.

Note it takes a few turns to see some movement. You can see the nut by looking up thru the forks at the back of the headlamp assy. It the grayish nut on the motor pod.

It's the Yellow circled nut in this photo LINK.
Note it will likely be oriented facing down on your bike to allow access from between the forks.
 
Last edited:
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It takes a while for the motor to move them. If you listen closely you can hear the headlamp motor with the bike off key on when you turn the knob.
For mechanical adjustment for a given knob setting use a socket, hex key, or phillips screw driver on the head light adjustment nut. CW should move them down.

Note it takes a few turns to see some movement. You can see the nut by looking up thru the forks at the back of the headlamp assy. It the grayish nut on the motor pod.

It's the Yellow circled nut in this photo LINK.
Note it will likely be oriented facing down on your bike to allow access from between the forks.


Thank you very much for that, The photo is most helpfull.


Shall have a look over the weekend and see if i can get to it.

Many Thanks

Lee
 
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Looks like i have blown one of the bulbs. Am yet to take the bulb out and have a look and see where i can buy a replacement.

Would there be any problems with my taking the blown one out completely and still ride the bike with only the one working until i replace it?


Many Thanks


Lee
 

SupraSabre

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I you are looking at original replacements, be prepared for sticker shock!

Just stop by your local auto parts store and pick up a "set" (as in two) H4 bulbs. Then remove the two LOWER tabs from the bulbs and place in your headlights.

WAY CHEAPER!
 
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or better yet replace them with EVITEK H4 LEDs. Then they will stay on all the time while you are idling and draw less power.

The answer to why the right side cuts out with a HID is the same as why the left side burns out first (halogen).

Honda wired the two headlight via different circuits and different fuses. So if one headlight went out it would not effect the other. So the rider could get home with one light.
The right side has more voltage drop than the left. The lower voltage on the right will cause the hid to cut out first and the higher voltage on the left side will cause a halogen to burn hotter and have a shorter life.

Since LEDs are fully regulated they will stay full brightness all the way down to 9 volts.
 
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Location
kent
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I you are looking at original replacements, be prepared for sticker shock!

Just stop by your local auto parts store and pick up a "set" (as in two) H4 bulbs. Then remove the two LOWER tabs from the bulbs and place in your headlights.

WAY CHEAPER!

If only it was that easy. I believe i have some sort of HID in .
 
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