Clutch fluid leak

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Apr 23, 2015
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Burlington, Ontario
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2003 ST1300
Hi, got a clutch fluid leak this last week the clutch felt spongy so checked out the master and fluid was low. Filled it back up and by the end of the week and a few hundred miles it's showing low again in the site glass but no sign of fluid under the bike or around the engine. is it a big job to change the slave cylinder seals? I'm guessing that's where the leak is but haven't got to look in detail yet. Any feed back would be appreciated.
 

dduelin

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The slave cylinder is on the back side of the engine. It's not easy to reach but it can be removed and replaced without dropping the engine out of the frame. I've not done it myself but it was described in this forum before.
 
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MikesGTS1000
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No sign of an external leak, ground clear when parked in the garage and the bike and around the engine all looks dry! Seems to me the only place it could be would be internal, possibly leaking into the engine maybe.
 
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MikesGTS1000
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Did you have a leaking seal that caused you to remove and replace the seal or did you do it for another issue?
 
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MikesGTS1000
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Well after a struggle I've replaced the clutch slave cylinder seals to cure the fluid leak! A word to the mechanically challenged don't try it, it's not easy, if you have small hands and fingers it could be a little easier. When working from the bottom at the rear of the engine it is a lying on the ground with the bike on its side stand it is a tricky job trying to align the bolt fitting at the top of the cylinder. Once you hand is in there you can't see what's going on so it's to be aligned and also has the two banjo fittings and washers to align and then start the bolt keeping it straight and aligned, not easy! All that said if it had more room to get both hands in and a ratchet wrench the job would be an easy one hour fix. It took me approx 3.5hrs.
 
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Good for you Mike!

ALL: I am going to try to do my clutch slave cylinder (CSC) either tonight or this weekend and I think I am going to try it using Mike's side-stand method rather than laying the bike on its side (he and I have been PM'ing on his repair as well as my earlier contact with STGolfer who has also done this job).
I am going to remove the oil filter to improve access to the banjo bolt and I plan to do a complete article on this with parts lists, tools and photos etc. The issue with laying the bike down has been that it needs to be just about out of gas, plus you need a fair bit of room to lay it down and be able to stretch out on the floor yourself to get into the area just ahead of the swing arm where the CSC is attached to rear case of the engine.

Anyhow - sorry this has taken so long to get at. I have been travelling on business and managed to crank my back a couple of times - plus my garage was such a mess that there wasn't a spot for me to lie down under the bike :(. Now that the garage is cleaned-up and I have some Robaxacets in stock - I am just about ready to roll on this one.

Pete
 
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You may find it easier if you have a 1/4 inch ratchet and swivel sockets on hand. Don't use the swivel joint if possible, use the actual sockets that swivel, you'll have more room.
You also may find that using the 4 and 6 inch extensions that have the machined ends to move around will help you line stuff up easier.
Looking forward to your write up, good luck.
Igofar
 
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Hope that I never have to do this, but can it be done with the bike parked on the center stand?
 
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You may find it easier if you have a 1/4 inch ratchet and swivel sockets on hand. Don't use the swivel joint if possible, use the actual sockets that swivel, you'll have more room.
You also may find that using the 4 and 6 inch extensions that have the machined ends to move around will help you line stuff up easier.
Looking forward to your write up, good luck.
Igofar
Good thought Igofar. I have lots of tools including a set of ring ratchet wrenches, a full complement of 1/4" drive sockets, u-joints and the flexi-extensions you mentioned - but I don't have a set of those little flexi-socket guys, so I think I will slip into the store and get a set on my way home today.

I have always lived by the motto that "He who dies with the most tools - wins!" Besides, with the labour charge for the clutch slave cylinder job running nearly $1300 PLUS parts - almost any amount spent on tools that helps me to do it myself is cheap.DON: the clutch slave cylinder (CSC) is a $75 part that is a little bit bigger than an Oreo cookie. It is attached to the rear of the engine case by three little 6 mm bolts and it has a banjo-bolt fitting threaded into the top of it - which has two hydraulic lines (one from the clutch lever and the other is a bleeder pipe which goes down to behind the black lower fairing shield just near the side-stand pivot point). The two hydraulic fittings are separated by aluminium crush washers which are essential for keeping things from leaking (and repairing a leak is afterall, the whole idea here). Apparently, getting this banjo bolt off and then getting it back on with the crush washers in-place and getting it tightened down is the tough part. The whole CSC assembly isn't very big - but it is bolted to the rear case of the engine, very close to the front end of the swing arm. The whole area is also covered by the gearshift mechanism and is partially blocked by the oil filter - so access is crummy to be charitable. I will be removing the gearshift mechanism and the oil filter along with the lower fairing panels - plus I have one of the keyhole video-inspection cameras with integral light so hopefully I can get in there and see whats-what.

My research has revealed that there are basically three ways of getting access to the clutch slave cylinder:

1) remove engine (this is the method advocated by Honda and the labour charge, as noted above, is nearly $1300 at my friendly nearby dealer); NOT doing this - the cost is nuts.

2) lay the bike down on its side (this was the method used by STGolfer and he said that it was tight, but worked OK); This doesn't look too bad - but the fuel tank needs to be nearly empty and then you have the issue of standing the bike back up.

3) put the bike on the side-stand and go up in front of the rear wheel and swing arm to access the CSC (this is the method used by MikesGTS1000 and he also said it was tight - but that it is doable). This is how I am going to do it.

To answer your specific question: having the bike on the centre stand would make the job harder I think. The CSC is on the left hand side of the rear engine case and so having the bike either laying on its left side or at least leaning toward the left makes it easier to reach up and get at things. As I have said, I plan to document the whole thing including which tools work best and all the parts I used etc. Hopefully, it will be a good resource for other folks.

BTW - both STGolfer and MikesGTS1000 have been very kind with advice and suggestions and they have both said that while this isn't the easiest thing to do on an ST1300, it can be done in 2-4 hours - even by a grumpy old fud like me.

Cheers,

Pete
 
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MikesGTS1000
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Seal was leaking, after removing it found the outer small seal cracked, the cylinder body full of black rubber deposits from the larger piston seal. So both seals were the problem, just cleaned up the cylinder body and installed the new seals $26.00 and free labor.
Mike S.
 
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Hi Pete,

I am looking into getting this job done. Did you end up doing an article on fixing this? I am new to trying to "fix" things on my bike so I am not quite up to doing this fix on my own. I am trying to get as much info as possible and also looking for a mechanic in the Gig Harbor, Tacoma, Seattle or areas near here to help me out with this. I have called two dealers and they both started off saying that it should be an easy fix, then come back after asking their technicians, and say it is the 14 hr job of taking out the engine and swing arm just to replace the slave cylinder gaskets. So, if anyone has any body they know or trust in the Seattle area, I'd love to hear about them.
Thanks for anything you can point out to me Pete!
Rich
 
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With small tools (1/4 drive) and long wrenches (snap-on), it takes about an hour to replace the slave cylinder seals.
Its easier on a lift or table, but do-able on the side stand if you don't have back or neck issues.
Perhaps MikesGTS100 will post that procedure he spoke of and explain what tools he used.
Thanks for sharing.
Igofar
 

SupraSabre

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I'll be doing this to my 2010. I flushed the fluid and within a few days it gets dark!

I have to wait until I get my shed built in the back so I have someplace to work on it at.

I plan on using a lift to support the bike and make it easier to get under.
 
Joined
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I'll be doing this to my 2010. I flushed the fluid and within a few days it gets dark!

I have to wait until I get my shed built in the back so I have someplace to work on it at.

I plan on using a lift to support the bike and make it easier to get under.
That sounds more like a heat issue, than a leak. Do you have signs of fluid loss, or leaks?
 

SupraSabre

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That sounds more like a heat issue, than a leak. Do you have signs of fluid loss, or leaks?
The clutch has been slipping at higher rpms/speed, but I don't see anything on the ground when the bike is sitting, nor do I see it seeping out...

I just assumed it was allowing (sucking) oil into the clutch hydraulics.
 
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Thanks for the info Igofar. With you saying it took you about an hour I am guessing that means that you didn't take much off to get to the seals, correct? I just changed the oil and filter but it sounds like it is being suggested to removed the oil filter to get more room. Did you find that is what you had to do?
Rich
 
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The clutch has been slipping at higher rpms/speed, but I don't see anything on the ground when the bike is sitting, nor do I see it seeping out...

I just assumed it was allowing (sucking) oil into the clutch hydraulics.
Sounds more like your clutch/springs have gone south for the winter. But I do know how much you like wrenching on these bikes :rofl1:
 
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Thanks for the info Igofar. With you saying it took you about an hour I am guessing that means that you didn't take much off to get to the seals, correct? I just changed the oil and filter but it sounds like it is being suggested to removed the oil filter to get more room. Did you find that is what you had to do?
Rich
Rich, I've done it both ways, with the oil filter off, and with it in place. Remove the single bolt that holds the rubber overflow lines and move the bracket out of the way, then remove the single bolt holding the shifter linkage to the shaft and move the entire assembly out of the way, then you have clear (but tight) access. If this is the first time your doing it, it way be easier for you to remove the oil filter just so you have a better view. Remove the lower black cowlings on both sides. A small mechanics mirror and light are helpful in seeing that everything is clean in there. Also make note of the direction of the banjo fittings. That's about it. Good luck.
 
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