You may find it easier if you have a 1/4 inch ratchet and swivel sockets on hand. Don't use the swivel joint if possible, use the actual sockets that swivel, you'll have more room.
You also may find that using the 4 and 6 inch extensions that have the machined ends to move around will help you line stuff up easier.
Looking forward to your write up, good luck.
Igofar
Good thought Igofar. I have lots of tools including a set of ring ratchet wrenches, a full complement of 1/4" drive sockets, u-joints and the flexi-extensions you mentioned - but I don't have a set of those little flexi-socket guys, so I think I will slip into the store and get a set on my way home today.
I have always lived by the motto that
"He who dies with the most tools - wins!" Besides, with the
labour charge for the clutch slave cylinder job running nearly $1300 PLUS parts - almost any amount spent on tools that helps me to do it myself is cheap.
DON: the clutch slave cylinder (CSC) is a $75 part that is a little bit bigger than an Oreo cookie. It is attached to the rear of the engine case by three little 6 mm bolts and it has a banjo-bolt fitting threaded into the top of it - which has two hydraulic lines (one from the clutch lever and the other is a bleeder pipe which goes down to behind the black lower fairing shield just near the side-stand pivot point). The two hydraulic fittings are separated by aluminium crush washers which are essential for keeping things from leaking (and repairing a leak is afterall, the whole idea here). Apparently, getting this banjo bolt off and then getting it back on with the crush washers in-place and getting it tightened down is the tough part. The whole CSC assembly isn't very big - but it is bolted to the rear case of the engine, very close to the front end of the swing arm. The whole area is also covered by the gearshift mechanism and is partially blocked by the oil filter - so access is crummy to be charitable. I will be removing the gearshift mechanism and the oil filter along with the lower fairing panels - plus I have one of the keyhole video-inspection cameras with integral light so hopefully I can get in there and see whats-what.
My research has revealed that there are basically three ways of getting access to the clutch slave cylinder:
1) remove engine
(this is the method advocated by Honda and the labour charge, as noted above, is nearly $1300 at my friendly nearby dealer);
NOT doing this - the cost is nuts.
2) lay the bike down on its side
(this was the method used by STGolfer and he said that it was tight, but worked OK);
This doesn't look too bad - but the fuel tank needs to be nearly empty and then you have the issue of standing the bike back up.
3) put the bike on the
side-stand and go up in front of the rear wheel and swing arm to access the CSC
(this is the method used by MikesGTS1000 and he also said it was tight - but that it is doable).
This is how I am going to do it.
To answer your specific question: having the bike on the centre stand would make the job harder I think. The CSC is on the
left hand side of the rear engine case and so having the bike either laying on its
left side or at least leaning toward the left makes it easier to reach up and get at things. As I have said, I plan to document the whole thing including which tools work best and all the parts I used etc. Hopefully, it will be a good resource for other folks.
BTW - both
STGolfer and
MikesGTS1000 have been very kind with advice and suggestions and they have both said that while this isn't the easiest thing to do on an ST1300, it can be done in 2-4 hours - even by a grumpy old fud like me.
Cheers,
Pete