timming belt change

Joined
Sep 2, 2014
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Cornwall
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st1100aw/abs/tcs/98
Hi all,
Have just been chatting to my bike shop where i have my m.o.t done and they have said to change my timming belt at 70 to 75,000 miles and the job would take them 12 hours is this right !!! At ?38 per hour its not cheap job what do you chaps think thanks monty
 
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Fort Worth, Texas
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91 ST1100/06 ST1300
I just went through the drill on my 1991 1100. It had been sitting/garaged for most of the previous 20 years. I spent probably 12 total hours working time (over some days, reading up in the manual and waiting on replacement parts) on the TB change. BUT...I cleaned, replaced, inspected, adjusted, flushed, polished and repainted along the way AND it was my first time performing the task. If the belt were my only goal, I could do it in four hour's next time. The 12 hour estimate probably reflects the dealership's desire for you to take it somewhere else.
 

Mark

Gotta make tracks
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Manual says 90,000.
If you can follow directions you can do the job yourself in a weekend... It does not take a weekend but I took that long the first time I did one...
 

kiltman

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My mechanic did it in under three hours. I prepped the bike by taking off the Tupperware which saves an hour or two. I concur with Mark, as I have just looked it up and it's 90K miles. (My new ST has 77K so I'm good for another season)
 
Joined
May 7, 2015
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66
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Eastern NC
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1997 ST1100
Read the "Timing Belt" threads before buying belt.
Honda 14401-MT3-004 $97.14 + Shipping
Gates T325 $44.26
Goodyear 40325 $???
Check part number for your bike
My 2 cents
 

ST1100Y

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...the job would take them 12 hours...
Depends what other tasks they include there...
- full coolant flush/replacement (they need to drain it anyway when removing the rad)
- replacing w/pump, idler and spanner pulley...
- valve adjustment and installing new cover gaskets (properly...)
- finalizing the job with a good carb sync...
- fixing other issues found during the work, like worn head-/front wheel bearings, leaking fork seals...

...reaching into an older motorcycle of unknown condition and service history could quickly turn into a minefield...
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2015
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46
Location
Santa Cruz Co, CA (formerly Vermont)
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'97 ST1100
OP has asked more or less the same question I joined up to ask about: Is it worth having a shop do the belt or is something I can do myself? Usually I wouldn't hesitate to do something like this myself, as it seems relatively simple, but my ST is my only motorized way to work (12 mile bicycle ride round-trip otherwise) and I'd be more comfortable having a mechanic assume the responsibility if it goes wrong. Is it simple enough that I could tackle it myself in a couple days? As an idea of my mechanical experience level, a fork seal change and brake bleed on an 83 Honda Magna V45 is probably the most complex task I've so far completed but I'm fairly familiar with the workings of the engine, cooling system, etc, and I'm currently in the process of replacing at least one of the top ends for that bike, so I don't shy from tough projects. Given that, is it a low-risk project for a first-timer? If something goes a bit wrong I'll be all right cycling for a couple extra days, but a serious mishap leaves me with TWO grounded rides and long, cold ride to work. I hope this will stay in line with the what the OP wanted to get from the thread. If not I can start another. Thanks all. Looking forward to talking and learning from you.
 
Joined
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Fort Worth, Texas
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91 ST1100/06 ST1300
OP has asked more or less the same question I joined up to ask about: Is it worth having a shop do the belt or is something I can do myself? Usually I wouldn't hesitate to do something like this myself, as it seems relatively simple, but my ST is my only motorized way to work (12 mile bicycle ride round-trip otherwise) and I'd be more comfortable having a mechanic assume the responsibility if it goes wrong. Is it simple enough that I could tackle it myself in a couple days?
Working on your own bike is a really big plus, providing you with a deep sense of accomplishment, and minimizing your financial commitment in trade for your time. You get to know the bike's condition down to the smallest flat washer...if you are mechanically adept(or are a quick study), observant, pay attention to detail, and abhor short cutting a task. Otherwise, have a certified mechanic perform the scheduled maintenance...you will be better off in the long run.
Most owners can learn, some few are wasting their time. Only you can decide what your interests and abilities are.
 
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Kingman, Arizona
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004
DIY. And, I recommend 110,000 miles if there is no apparent wear when doing the (recommended) pre-change check a couple times as the miles pile up. Nearly everyone who has done the change has commented there is no apparent wear when comparing the old belt with the new belt.

Last change on STick (her third belt), I installed a used belt off a 30,000 mile wrecked 91 engine that had set idle for many years. That belt now has an additional 25,000 miles and works fine. LipSTick is nearly due for her third belt, currently has a Gates installed with about 100,000 miles.
 
Joined
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Santa Cruz Co, CA (formerly Vermont)
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'97 ST1100
Did mine on my 96 with 84000 miles due to a blown coolant hose, did the belt, waterpump, and pulled carbs, and changed all hoses, in about 20 hours. Had never touched an 1100 before! Read the books, take pictures to avoid any confusion, i sugest a m/c lift if possible to make it easier on the knees, and the top of your head on the headlight brackets!
Thanks for the perspective. I have the manual, but are there any articles or videos you would recommend on the procedure? Helpful things to watch out for? I will also mention that I have had the bike for about 1,000 miles, but I got it with 114,700 and the PO had never changed the timing belt, so it's quite a bit past due. I've been nervous about it since I got the bike in October.
 
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91 ST1100/06 ST1300
Thanks for the perspective. I have the manual, but are there any articles or videos you would recommend on the procedure? Helpful things to watch out for? I will also mention that I have had the bike for about 1,000 miles, but I got it with 114,700 and the PO had never changed the timing belt, so it's quite a bit past due. I've been nervous about it since I got the bike in October.
There are a few Youtube videos on the procedure. I watched three of them before I started. Read the Honda manual also...the process described in the manual is easy to follow. The Youtube videos add some realism.
 
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soCal
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687
Do you want to replace the water pump? If so they run about $250 plus various gaskets.
There's only one O-ring associated with the pump. My pump came with it, although the parts fiche doesn't say anything about that, so I'm not sure if that's always the case. The O-ring is something like $6 by ifself.

While you have all this apart good time to do the hoses under the carbs. All of them, the water necks,and orings. Replace the vacuum hoses just because they are old.no need to remove carb boots from intake. For the carbs you will need a long #2 philips.

1. If you do decide to do this work, replace the carb boots if they've never been replaced before. Old boots probably won't reseal well anyway, and they're only about $8 each for new ones.
2. this job is independent of the timing belt process, you go in from the top for this one. I don't think there's any significant time saved by doing both jobs at the same time, other than the normal plastic removal required for any job on the ST1100, which doesn't take more than a few minutes once you've done it a couple times. Although there is a breather hose that goes from the airbox to the water pump that might be easier to route with everything off. Not sure if that hose is on all years, since the water pumps are slightly different for different years, but my '97 has it.
 
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There are actually two orings on the waterpump
One does come with it the other is a small one i think it is about 12 mm
thanks for jogging my memory, I had forgotten about that one.
 
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Santa Cruz Co, CA (formerly Vermont)
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'97 ST1100
Things to do, well after getting it blocked up or on a lift.
Remove front wheel, forks, replace steering bearings, inspect front wheel bearings,
Remove radiator, clean replace all hoses.
Remove clutch slave cylinder replace hose rebuild it.
Then the timing belt. Remove spark plugs set the timing marks. Now decision time. Do you want to replace the water pump?
If so they run about $250 plus various gaskets.
While you have all this apart good time to do the hoses under the carbs. All of them, the water necks,and orings. Replace the vacuum hoses just because they are old.no need to remove carb boots from intake.
Re assemble. For the carbs you will need a long #2 philips.
It really is easy, try to get the honda shop manual, it gives very good detail on all this.
What I'm hearing is:
It's easy, but—as well as a new timing belt—I ALSO need to purchase:
-new steering bearings
-(maybe) new wheel bearings
-new radiator/coolant hoses
-(maybe, probably not) new spark plugs
-new coolant

and if I want to...
-a new water pump
-a sh*t-load of new gaskets (which hopefully come with the pump)
-more hoses, water necks, and O-rings
-new vacuum hoses

I'm down, but I have to check again: how long will this take? Sounds like ordering the parts is most of the challenge, honestly. I probably won't do the optional things because of time constraints (two jobs), so it should be fairly do-able. Recommendations on where to order the steering bearings and radiator hose? I may end up doing this after a 250 mile round-trip up to Napa and back. Is there anything I should avoid doing in the meantime to make sure it lasts? Thanks for walking me through this!
 
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finger lakes ny
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I regret skipping the water pump (due to cost, as it was working fine) when I did the belt. It is now leaking and I have to go in again.
Hope the pulleys, which I also skipped, don't present the same scenario.

You can easily wait many thousands of miles more to do this though.
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2015
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46
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Santa Cruz Co, CA (formerly Vermont)
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'97 ST1100
I regret skipping the water pump (due to cost, as it was working fine) when I did the belt. It is now leaking and I have to go in again.
Hope the pulleys, which I also skipped, don't present the same scenario.

You can easily wait many thousands of miles more to do this though.
Oh, that's a relief! I want to do it, but I don't have any time in the next couple weeks and I don't want to rush it. That never ends well.
 
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finger lakes ny
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Oh, that's a relief! I want to do it, but I don't have any time in the next couple weeks and I don't want to rush it. That never ends well.
Looking back at my comment about your having lots of miles to go till timing belt change, I had the original poster's mileage in mind. Don't know what yours is, but like Mark and George said, 90 - 100k is generally the idea.
 
OP
OP
monty8563
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Messages
21
Location
Cornwall
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st1100aw/abs/tcs/98
Hi all,
I have now pulled the bike apart to do the T/belt plus rollers, what a job!!, i have found that the roller at the top will not come off, the bolt will turn a few turns BUT then goes very tight have used a 1/4" bar on it with no joy so its staying in it looks good anyway.
Also pulled the clutch out and that all needs replacing!! This i hope will remove the dragging when bike is under load see old post, this is my frirst time doing this king of job so please wish me luck, bikes only done 65000 miles i no Mr Honda says 90000 but it must also come down to age and my bike is 1998 asb ( st1100) the old belt looks fine and like new, but hey i no its been done.
One thing which is not right to me is the timming, i marked all 3 marks at the start and one was off its mark not sure now to re aline but bike is running great before hand so putting back the same way , more updates to follow, 2 days in so far.
 
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Dahlonega, GA
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Way to dive in there, Monty! Can be a little intimidating the first time around, but you will gain a lot of knowledge from doing it yourself... not to mention the confidence gained.
 
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