Gear Position Indicator on an ST1100

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good Luck mate . I am watching this thread with interest as only about an hour ago I was toying with idea of fitting one to my St1100. I had one on my Versys that was basically plug and play , it worked ok but was delayed by about a second to show what gear I was in after the gear change . Keep us posted please :)
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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SUCCESS AT LAST!

I am delighted to report that I now have a fully serviceable Gear Postion Indicator.

With the Help of Heal-Tech, I Learned the issue was with the rpm signal. Apparently, the falls out with the voltage range of the GI Pro, when the revs go above 2K.

The way round this is to not use the Tach signal, but the ignition pulse generator signal (yellow wire from the ICM).

So, the installation of this should be fairly simple.

1. Remove the following for access Windshield, Garnish, the grey pieces below the garnish, left side case, seat, Left side panel, air box cover, Left side fairing pocket, and finally the instrument surround.

2. Mount the Wheel Sensor to the rear brake caliper, in a position to be able to read the brake rotor mounting bolts, and set the sensing gap to no more than 1mm.

3. Route the wheel sensor cable to the front of the bike (cable ties supplied), and into the area above the headlights, and behind the instrument binnacle.

4. Cut a relief (optional, but looks neater) into the instrument surround to allow the cable to pass through, then peel off the protective tape, and mount the GI unit on the dash, taking the cable through to the rear of th instruments. Now you can remount the surround.

5. Now you can introduce the third part of the system, the wiring loom. Bring this to the rear of the instruments, and connect t h e two power w I res to the ignition controlled 12v supply of your choice.(connectors provided). Now take the Green/Black RPM signal wire into the LH fairing, where the ICM module is. Find the yellow wire on the bottom of this (towards the front of the bike), and use one of the provided connectors provided, follicle into this wire.

6. Connect the wheel sensor, and the indicator, to the loom, using their dedicated connectors.

7. All that is left now, is to wrap the connections to weatherproof, tidy the Wiring up, and refit the removed access items, to complete the installation.

8. With installation complete, follow the instructions to calibrate the system, and your done.

9. Enjoy the ride with your new GI unit.
 

paulcb

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Good news Jim. Can you post a few pics?
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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Happy to oblige, Paul.

These were taken with the bike on the main stand. (Warming up for an oil change.) From the seat, in what would be close to a normal riding position.
The shroud was something I made out of a dashboard pad, as without the Indicator was not the easiest thing to see in bright, direct, sunlight.

GPI neutral.jpg GPI 1st.jpg GPI 2nd.jpg GPI 3rd.jpg GPI 4th.jpg GPI 5th.jpg

I tried to get them at a variety of rev positions, but it ain't easy working the throttle and the camera at the same time, so may not quite have the variety I wanted.
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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BTW,
If anyone wants to see the GPI ,
Or the LED headlight upgrade,
Or the clear turn signal lenses (and by that tine, I'll have dual color LED's fitted),
"in the flesh", so to speak, I'll be tacking the bike to FL-Stoc on Friday 13th-Sun 15th, of this month.
 

paulcb

- - - Tetelestai - - - R.I.P. - 2022/05/26
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Pretty cool Jim. Is that a curved sunshade to right of the GI or just an image artifact?
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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It is slightly curved, as it is an extremely flexible material. When I originally fitted, I just tacked on at the rear of the GI, but since taking these pics, I added more adhesive so it appears more square now.......but to get it looking really good, a more ridged material would be needed.

That took me all of 4 minutes to knock-up, just using what I had laying around in the garage.
 

STraymond

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BTW,
If anyone wants to see the GPI ,
Or the LED headlight upgrade,
Or the clear turn signal lenses (and by that tine, I'll have dual color LED's fitted),
"in the flesh", so to speak, I'll be tacking the bike to FL-Stoc on Friday 13th-Sun 15th, of this month.

I look forward to a lighting and GI demo at FL-STOC next week.

Ray
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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I look forward to a lighting and GI demo at FL-STOC next week.

Ray

Ray,

We'll get you some first-hand experience with them......I was really happy with them, until I saw how "factory" Ad's fitment looks. (I need to get a spare instrument panel, and practice, maybe when I'm all grown up, I'll get to be that good.)
The '91 has the lights done, and I will definitely be fitting a GI to that too, but it won't be on for FL-Stoc (this year).

So it shouldn't be too difficult to spot our bikes there.

Jim
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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As a final thought on this......last week I rode my black '91 without the GI for most of the week quite happily. On Thursday, I rode the red '01 with it.

It's amazing how quickly you can become used to some things.

On Friday I rode the black one again, and on Friday night ordered another GI for it!
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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8872
I look forward to a lighting and GI demo at FL-STOC next week.

Ray
Ray,

I have another GI on the way for my '91 (been promised delivery by Thursday), and have offered to Shuey to do a live install/set-up as a demo. So if people are okay with it, and there's interest, it may happen Saturday.

Jim
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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8872
Update

So I fitted a second one on Thursday, to my '91, figuring it would be straightforward this time.

Installation for the most part was. Spent more time pulling plastic off and putting it on than anything else. Total time was about one hour, but that was rushing a bit due to poor light.

However, once again the games began when calibrating. First through third calibrated okay, but 4th did not want to play. Didn't have time to play with it Thursday, or this weekend, with FL-SToc. But knowing how I got it in, I can easily believe my Ingition pulse signal is less than perfect. So I will redo it sometime this week.

So to any thinking of fitting one of these, it is not a difficult job, but everything has to be "just so" for it to work correctly. So some fettling may be required, unless you take a lot of care at each step, don't expect it to be work first-time. What I will say is that when you have it working, it is all worthwhile!
It's one of those things that once it's going, you'll wonder how you ever rode without one.

Looking forward to getting the second one up and running, and having spoken to The Cheese this weekend, am seriously considering relocating them to the Tach (looking through from behind), similar to how Ad has done his.

I'll keep things updated with everything I find.
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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As of Sunday, I have the second GI operational on my '91.

I had to remove the Scotch-Lok style connector (supplied with the kit) that I had used to tap into the ignition pulse generator signal (Yellow wire), and solder the Green/Black wire to it to ensure a good connection, sealing it with self-vulcanizing tape.
I checked the sensor connection on the rear wheel. It was okay, but the sensor seemed to be a slight angle, so I tweaked the bracket to ensure the sensor was parallel to the bolts all the way across.

Reset, and carried out the calibration again. All is fully functional now.
I guess the moral of the story is to ensure that the connection to the ICM yellow wire is a good one, before re-assembly. Don't rush it, like I did second time round, and have to pull things apart again to correct.
 
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Fatjock

Fatjock

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8872
Always a good idea... or never use them to begin with ;-)

I agree. I try to avoid them, but sometimes expediency drives me to things I wouldn't otherwise do.
Was trying to get this running before a weekend trip, on a Thursday night, in less than ideal lighting. So I took a chance, and it didn't work.
When I had time I went back and did it properly, no more issues.

Moral of the story.......More haste, less speed!
 
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