front RH caliper

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Nov 2, 2015
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southport uk
i have recently removed and cleaned the front right caliper the problem is that when i put it bac on the caliper is binding on the disk even with the pads removed when i tighten the mounting bolts the wheel wont turn only if i slacken the bolts will it move, any ideas as it has me stumped.:confused:
 
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soCal
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'97 ST1100
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687
be more specific as to what is binding. Also, a picture would help show what might be the problem. what year ST1100, and is it ABS or not?
 
OP
OP
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Nov 2, 2015
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southport uk
sorry details are it is binding on the caliper on the inside edge of the disk the st is a 2000 I will do some pictures tomorrow
 

ST4Sal

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4812
Is this the situation where the bolts are in the wrong spot? IIRC there is a situation that if the pins are in wrong the calipers kind of stay closed..

I'm sure there are others that can add better information.
 
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Cleveland
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I'm not familiar at all with the 1100, but if the caliper is binding (aka rubbing) on the disk with NO pads in place, then you have to be putting the caliper back on the bike incorrectly. I don't know how this can happen because I haven't seen an 1100's brakes. I once played with my truck calipers on my back under the truck for what seemed like hours on end and the disk kept rubbing on the inside of the caliper. Of course, I was putting the caliper back on the Wrong side of the trucks attachment bracket.

Might you be doing the same?
 
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687
Until we know if its ABS or not, its anybody's guess because:

1. the fork tube orientation is reversed between non-ABS and ABS
2. the non-ABS and ABS calipers are not the same.
 
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That calipers are either mounted incorrectly or! They mount and are suppose to slide on pins so when the pad wear the caliper floats to make up the difference. Is the caliper pushed all the way for lack of a better term a (to a full open) position?
 
OP
OP
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southport uk
the part that is binding is the side that the bolts go into so it doesn't move the clear side floats. its go me stumped
 
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British Columbia
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2021 RE Meteor 350
There is a dimensional difference between the ABS and non ABS forks that may be the reason for this and may not be apparent on the fork legs. The ABS has a larger diameter fork tube than the non ABS and the wheel is a bit wider also, on an ABS bike. Not sure if that wider wheel also affects the position of the rotor. Someone with both models, like UP, could probably explain the differences.
 

ST1100Y

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637
The mounting lugs for fender/fork-brace IDs them as different fork bottoms!
Your "replacement" appears to be coming from a '92~'94 ABS-I/TCS model, which also used 41mm tubes (both have the drain bolts at the bottom), but differs in enforced fork-brace and mounts, using 8mm bolts, whilst the standard/non-ABS has 6mm there, thus smaller mounting points on the fork bottom.
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
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May 10, 2005
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Bettendorf, Iowa
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1991 SSMST1100
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1058
Martin beat me to it. What he said - different fork sliders. The fender bolts have different torque values and if you don't read the service manual carefully you can overtorque the 6mm versions. AMHIKT

BTW, is that a gold colored rim from a 92-95 ABS I/TCS ST? Is the right side spacer/collar installed on the axle?

John
via iPhone 6
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
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Nov 2, 2015
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southport uk
i will check all dimensions on both and see if there is any difference must be the sliders cant think of any other explanation. many thanks
 
OP
OP
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southport uk
i have checked and yes the origonalare 6mm and the replacements are 8mm although in every other respect they look identical. still stumped
 
Last edited:
Joined
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004
I didn't realize the early ABS still used 41 mm fork tubes. Good info.

The 3.5" wheel from the ABS bike fits fine on the standard bike, simply swap the brake discs, the hub is the same. I'm running such on STick right now, along with the wider front tire. Works for me.
 
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