I have owned my 2011 KLR for about two years and have learned a few things, some the hard way, that I would like to share, and maybe save someone some grief.
1. The 2008+ shop manual has several errors in it. The most important one I have found is the footpeg bolt torque. It is listed at 31 ft/lbs. Do this and you will not be happy. The correct torque is 18 ft/lbs.
2. Check and adjust (if necessary) your valves at 7500 miles, then at 15k miles, then every 15k miles afterward. Lots of folks have had tight valves at 7500 miles.
3. Be real careful tightening down the valve cover. About 65 INCH/lbs is all you need.
4. Replace the balance chain tensioner (doohickey)and spring with the aftermarket one from Eagle Mike and his torsion spring. All years, I do not care if it is brand new. I have done three bikes with less than 5k miles on them. All three had no tension left in the stock springs. Use the right tools, do not go cheap. Lost of people have them to lend, including me.
5. The oil level should be at the top of the sight glass when the bike itself is level. Check it every time you gas up. They all burn oil at over 4-5k continuous RPMs. '08s and some '09s are the worst due to different oil rings. The 685 kit will fix this, I am told.
6. Take the fairings off and look for rub points in the wiring. Mine were ok, but it seems like '08 and '09 s were worse.
7. For some reason, the factory does not like to grease the suspension bearings and their associated shafts. Again, I don't care if the bike is brand new, take the rear suspension apart, including the swingarm and Unitrac knuckle and grease the hell out of all the bearings with waterproof grease. I use Bel-Ray. If your bike is older, be prepared to have difficulty getting the Unitrac shaft out due to corrosion. I had to use penetrating oil and an air hammer on my friend's bike. The same applies to the swingarm shaft, but it will not be quite as bad. Remove them both, sand them down and liberally coat with waterproof grease before re-installing. This job is much easier if you loosen the lower engine mount nut (32ft/lbs), swingarm nut (65 ft/lbs)and Unitrac nut (72 ft/lbs) first. The rear axle, lower shock and dogbone nuts all have torque values of 72 ft/lbs.
8. This is the best site I have found for all things KLR: http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php
1. The 2008+ shop manual has several errors in it. The most important one I have found is the footpeg bolt torque. It is listed at 31 ft/lbs. Do this and you will not be happy. The correct torque is 18 ft/lbs.
2. Check and adjust (if necessary) your valves at 7500 miles, then at 15k miles, then every 15k miles afterward. Lots of folks have had tight valves at 7500 miles.
3. Be real careful tightening down the valve cover. About 65 INCH/lbs is all you need.
4. Replace the balance chain tensioner (doohickey)and spring with the aftermarket one from Eagle Mike and his torsion spring. All years, I do not care if it is brand new. I have done three bikes with less than 5k miles on them. All three had no tension left in the stock springs. Use the right tools, do not go cheap. Lost of people have them to lend, including me.
5. The oil level should be at the top of the sight glass when the bike itself is level. Check it every time you gas up. They all burn oil at over 4-5k continuous RPMs. '08s and some '09s are the worst due to different oil rings. The 685 kit will fix this, I am told.
6. Take the fairings off and look for rub points in the wiring. Mine were ok, but it seems like '08 and '09 s were worse.
7. For some reason, the factory does not like to grease the suspension bearings and their associated shafts. Again, I don't care if the bike is brand new, take the rear suspension apart, including the swingarm and Unitrac knuckle and grease the hell out of all the bearings with waterproof grease. I use Bel-Ray. If your bike is older, be prepared to have difficulty getting the Unitrac shaft out due to corrosion. I had to use penetrating oil and an air hammer on my friend's bike. The same applies to the swingarm shaft, but it will not be quite as bad. Remove them both, sand them down and liberally coat with waterproof grease before re-installing. This job is much easier if you loosen the lower engine mount nut (32ft/lbs), swingarm nut (65 ft/lbs)and Unitrac nut (72 ft/lbs) first. The rear axle, lower shock and dogbone nuts all have torque values of 72 ft/lbs.
8. This is the best site I have found for all things KLR: http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php
