2007 ST1300 speedometer sensor

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Jul 11, 2013
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Starkville, MS
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2007 ST1300
So, if I've understood this thread:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?133083-ST1300-Speed-Sensor-replacement

I should see 0-5 volts at the connection behind the canister. I'm going to try to embed a video that shows the multimeter never getting out of the mV range. I have the ignition switch turned on and I'm turning the back tire. I'm trying to understand whether I have the facts to change out the speed sensor. Frankly, I'll probably take it in on Tuesday and ask the shop to change it, but I'd like to point them in a direction.

Noel

[video]https://youtu.be/iNNzzrLM8wc[/video]

Thanks MajorTom! I've re-video-ed it and 'published' it. It's still fuzzy, but maybe it will be satisfactory. Umm, the multimeter is set on 'battery load test' because I'm trying to measure volts out of the speed sensor.
Noel
 
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SteveST1300

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What is it you are trying to figure out/ My speed sensor went bad the speedo would work intermitently for a while then stopped working all together new sensor all is good.
 
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Starkville, MS
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2007 ST1300
Steve,

I was trying to make as certain as possible that the speed sensor was the reason that the speedometer was not working. There must be a lot of linkages that tie the wheels (or engine) to the speed readout on the dash. The speed sensor seems to be an early link and I was making certain that I understood the facts correctly before I changed it out.

Thanks for looking!

Noel
 
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Try putting the meter on a fixed scale DC volts (not auto range) It looks like it's set to auto ranging and might be too slow to range, catch the pulse and display the voltage.

Battery load test? Is that for AA batteries or something. Put it on a fixed scale DC volts and turn the wheel slowly to look for the pulse.
 
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OP
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st1300r

Thank you for that comment. I know it was bouncing around in the milliVolt range and that's a good point about catching the pulse. Within the "battery load test" settings there are settings like 6 volts and 12 volts and others. I put it on 6 volts, because that was the smallest setting above the expected maximum of 5 volts. Using that setting, the meter read the AA battery seemingly correct at 1.6 volts.

I have a second meter that has fewer features and it wasn't shown on the video. Using the second meter, the readout never moved from zero.

I took the bike to the shop this morning and asked them to replace the sensor and o-ring. We'll see. The path to the connection is still off the bike, so they probably won't be able to tell whether that solved the problem unless they try the volt-reading exercise themselves.

On the 'catching the pulse' issue, here's a rabbit. I once was testing a fuel pump for pressure using a meter from AutoZone. Plugged in, the needle bounced around a lot. There was no constant pressure. The needle bounced as the cylinders fired and consumed fuel. The consensus seemed to be that a 'dampened' pressure tester existed and I should have used that.

Noel
 
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[deleted] turn the wheel slowly to look for the pulse.
This is interesting! It's sort of like you're saying that there will be a pulse of voltage as some device inside the transmission comes around and the speed sensor picks it up. And, there will be no voltage during other parts of the turn. I was trying to turn the rear wheel evenly at some speed that might approximate a walking pace. Maybe I should have been turning it *really* slowly, so that the pulse would show distinctly when the device went by.

Noel
 
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Starkville, MS
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2007 ST1300
I replaced the speedometer sensor and I have a speedometer again.

With the new sensor in, I tried again to get the connection behind the canister to give a sensible reading. It didn't, so I'm clearly not doing it right. It doesn't matter much at the moment, because the speedometer is working.

Noel
 
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