The good - You are going to LOVE the thing. I had a 2002 ABS model for over 12 years. One of the best machines I have ever planted my rear end on. Very fast, very comfortable, handled well. I did two track days on it. Still miss it sometimes. Here is your source o lots of good VFR info:
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/index
The not so good - The early sixth generation VFR800s were plagued with inadequate wiring harnesses and had issues with the big molex plug and ground wire at the main harness connector (sound familiar?), inadequate stator plugs into the R/R and inadequate main fuse harnesses. NHTA did a recall on this, and these harnesses were replaced with more robust units. Make sure it was done on your bike, it seems 2004 was a transition year. There is a volume of info on this on the site above.
After the harnesses were replaced and I replaced the stator/RR plugs I went 50k miles without any problems. All I ever did to it, other than wear items, after that was replace the original stator and spark plugs at about 60k. Nobody I have ever heard of ever needed the valves adjusted after the very expensive ($400) check. If I were to do it over again, I would just skip this unless the engine was not idling well. Good luck!