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Thread: ST1300 - U-Joint Removal and Replacement

  1. #1
    Site Supporter 4jranch's Avatar
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    U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    First let me say that there is lots of information on the site for this job. I read all that I could find as well as the manual before I attempted this. I decided in advance to try to take photos to document the process for any that might want to try this themselves as well as for me for the next one. Thanks to Raymond for helping me confirm my suspicions that the funny vibration in my pegs on deceleration was indeed my u-joint failing after only 134,500 miles. If I borrow your stuff and don’t credit you, well…sorry.

    Remove:
    - Rear fender.
    - Both mufflers.
    - Right lower cowl.
    - Rear wheel.
    - Hang the rear brake caliper with a wire.
    - Right middle cowl.

    Detach:
    - Right step holder, leave it hanging.
    - Rear ABS sensor on swing arm.
    - Brake lines on swing arm.
    - Rear shock from swing arm.
    - EVAP canister, remove the two upper hoses and leave it hanging.
    - Right rear engine hangar bracket. Opening the “front window”.

    Remove:
    - Final drive (pumpkin) and the drive shaft.
    - Locking nut with special tool, this can be homemade or purchased from Dan at DHS racing http://www.dhsracing.com/GL1800tools.htm .
    - Swing arm pivot bolts using a 19 mm allen head.

    Detach:
    - Swing arm by pulling and wiggling rearward, watch the O2 sensor lines going to the exhaust. There is room to work with them still attached just be careful.


    Remove:
    - U-joint, mine stayed in the swing arm and I pushed it out with a long rod
    - U-joint boot, mine just fell out

    Both these can be removed in the space available from backing out the swing arm, once again be careful of the O2 sensor wires don’t stretch or pull on them.

    Clean:
    - The internal portion of the swing arm with a magnet and cleaning rags.

    “I used a magnet and rags and cleaned all the old ujoint bits out of the swingarm inside which was nothing more then ground dust bits. I used a mirror to look inside and it was plenty clean.” Raymond

    Remove:
    - Drive shaft from the final drive, this can be done by pulling and turning back and forth, keep track of the spring that goes on the end of the drive shaft.

    Lubricate:
    - Output driven gear shaft splines using Moly grease.
    - Drive shaft splines using Moly grease.
    - Your new U-joint boot with silicon grease, makes installation easier.

    Install: ( these next few steps are the hardest and may take a few manipulations from several different positions and angles, choice words helped me)

    - U-joint boot on to the engine groove around the output gear shaft, the tab on this side of the boot needs to be up.
    - The drive shaft into the swing arm.
    - New U-joint on to the drive shaft, long end toward the rear of the bike. For me the U-joint had to be mostly inside the swing arm for me to get the swing arm back in place.
    - U-joint on to the output gear shaft splines while slowly moving the swing arm forward.
    - U-joint boot to the swing arm groove, this required pushing and pulling on the tabs from below, above and in front (through the engine hanger bracket window). Make sure it gets seated properly, it does not just seat itself by pushing the swing arm into position.
    - swing arm pivot bolts, apply light oil to the threads before installation. I had to put these in before I could get the boot in position, these were installed loosely.
    - Rear shock bolt and nut, easy to attach now. Torque 31 ft/lb.
    - Torque right pivot bolt to 80 ft/lb.
    - Torque left pivot bolt to 40 ft/lb, then back off and re-torque to 30 ft/lb.
    - Locking nut, torque to 80 ft/lb.
    - Spring on to drive shaft.
    - Rear drive on to drive shaft and back of swing arm, turning the rear drive helps with this. Torque for these nuts 33 ft/lb.
    - ABS cord and sensor.
    - Brake lines to swing arm.
    - Right step holder, torque 47 ft/lb on front bolts and 31 ft/lb on back bolts
    - Rear engine hanger bracket, torque 29 ft/lb.
    - EVAC canister.
    - Right side middle cowl.
    - Right lower cowl.
    - Rear wheel, torque 80 ft/lb
    - Brake caliper, torque 51 ft/lb
    - Back fender.

    Have a beer…

    Remove:
    - Rear fender.


    .

    Remove:
    - Both mufflers.



    Remove:

    Right lower cowl.




    Remove:

    Rear wheel.




    - Hang the rear brake caliper with a wire.




    Remove:

    - Right middle cowl.



    Detach:


    - Right step holder, leave it hanging.







    And on the inside of the wheel well..



    Detach:

    - Rear ABS sensor on swing arm.





    Detach:

    - Brake lines on swing arm.








    Detach:

    - Rear shock from swing arm.



    Detach:

    - EVAP canister (from under the back of the middle cowl that you already removed), remove the two upper hoses and leave it hanging.





    Detach:

    - Right rear engine hangar bracket. Opening the ?front window? under this bracket. You can look in and see the u-joint boot.





    Here is the u-joint boot.



    Remove:

    - Final drive (pumpkin) and the drive shaft. Here are two of the four nuts.




    The drive shaft just pulls out with the final drive.

    This photo is from Tom DeBoesser's notes.



    Remove:

    - Locking nut with special tool, this can be homemade (from a 1 1/4" socket and a Dremel tool or grinder) or purchased from Dan at DHS racing http://www.dhsracing.com/GL1800tools.htm .





    Remove:

    - Swing arm pivot bolts using a 19 mm allen head. A 3/4" threaded coupling nut is a cheap tool for this.







    Coupling nut.



    Detach:

    - Swing arm by pulling and wiggling rearward, watch the O2 sensor lines going to the exhaust. There is room to work with them still attached just be careful.




    Here is the output drive gear shaft. Note the groove on the outside of it's housing.



    Remove:

    - U-joint, mine stayed in the swing arm and I pushed it out with a long rod.



    Remove:

    - U-joint boot, mine just fell out.


    Both these can be removed in the space available from backing out the swing arm, once again be careful of the O2 sensor wires don?t stretch or pull on them.





    Clean:

    - The internal portion of the swing arm with a magnet and cleaning rags.

    ?I used a magnet and rags and cleaned all the old ujoint bits out of the swingarm inside which was nothing more then ground dust bits. I used a mirror to look inside and it was plenty clean.? Raymond





    Remove:

    - Drive shaft from the final drive, this can be done by pulling and turning back and forth, keep track of the spring that goes on the end of the drive shaft.





    Lubricate:


    - Output driven gear shaft splines using Moly grease.
    - Drive shaft splines using Moly grease.



    Lubricate:

    - Your new U-joint boot with silicon grease, makes installation easier.



    Install: ( these next few steps are the hardest and may take a few manipulations from several different positions and angles, choice words helped me)

    - U-joint boot on to the engine groove around the output gear shaft, the tab on this side of the boot needs to be up.



    Install:


    - Put the new U-joint on to the drive shaft, long end toward the rear of the bike. The drive shaft needs to be inserted into the swing arm from behind to do this part. For me the U-joint had to be mostly inside the swing arm for me to get the swing arm back in place.


    - Then put the U-joint on to the output gear shaft splines while slowly moving the swing arm forward.



    Install:

    - The U-joint boot to the swing arm groove, this required pushing and pulling on the tabs from below, above and in front (through the engine hanger bracket window). Make sure it gets seated properly, it does not just seat itself by pushing the swing arm into position. Here you can see it is not quite seated in the groove on the swing arm.






    - Then install the swing arm pivot bolts, apply light oil to the threads before installation. I had to put these in before I could get the boot in position, these were installed loosely.

    Now just reverse the process of taking everything off.


    - Rear shock bolt and nut, easy to attach now. Torque 31 ft/lb.
    - Torque right pivot bolt to 80 ft/lb.
    - Torque left pivot bolt to 40 ft/lb, then back off and re-torque to 30 ft/lb.
    - Locking nut, torque to 80 ft/lb.
    - Spring on to drive shaft. Don't forget this, if you put it together without the spring in, the drive shaft locks into the rear drive and it has to be completely removed as a unit before you can pull it apart. Then you get to reinsert the drive shaft into the u-joint. Don't ask how I know this.





    - Rear drive on to drive shaft and back of swing arm, turning the rear drive helps with this. Torque for these nuts 33 ft/lb.
    - ABS cord and sensor.
    - Brake lines to swing arm.
    - Right step holder, torque 47 ft/lb on front bolts and 31 ft/lb on back bolts
    - Rear engine hanger bracket, torque 29 ft/lb.
    - EVAC canister.
    - Right side middle cowl.
    - Right lower cowl.
    - Rear wheel, torque 80 ft/lb
    - Brake caliper, torque 51 ft/lb
    - Back fender.

    Have a beer…

    As usual this is one of the reasons I love this site and my ST. From others contributions I was able to get this repair done. A lot slower than Raymond's job of course, must of been all the time I took taking photos. Thanks to all that made useful comments on this repair and this is my contribution....
    Jeff & Lynne
    Brenham, Texas
    '07 ST1300A & '07 ST1300A
    STOC #8073

  2. #2
    Site Supporter ToddC's Avatar
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    Re: U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    HOLY Postings Bat Man !!!

    Nice job on the repair....two of three of my ST1300s have less than 40,000 and the other only 77,000, so I hope I don't need to reference your wonder documentation work done here...

    ToddC
    I Just wana Ride man, I just wana Ride!

  3. #3
    fnmag's Avatar
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    Re: U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    Thank you for this excellent write up on replacing the U-joint. The pictures are top notch. Well done.
    This should be made into a stickie.
    Jim

  4. #4
    This space for rent... Scooter's Avatar
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    Re: U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    Jeff, was there any certain speeds that seemed to enhance the vibration or did you only notice it during deceleration?

    Nice job. I bet that beer tasted might fine by the time you finished...
    Scooter

    "When you are courting a nice girl an hour seems like a second. When you sit on a red-hot cinder a second seems like an hour. That's relativity." Albert Einstein

  5. #5
    Site Supporter
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    4jranch's Avatar
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    Re: U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    The vibration was first noticeable at almost any speed when I just let off the gas a little. At first it was just a little subtle and I convinced myself it was nothing. It then became more noticeable, finally making a rattling sound at most RPMs at any throttle position. We tested it with the motor running on the center stand, carefully holding down the front of the bike. Then shifting into first, letting out the clutch and then gently off and on the throttle. It was very obvious at that point, shaking a lot. I was 90 miles from home. I did ride home with very ginger use of the throttle. The vibration getting worse slowly. I was very glad it didn't come apart as it would have caused some damage. It was barely holding together when I took it off, I was lucky. Next time with Lynne's bike I will try to catch it sooner...

  6. #6
    Be Thou My Vision dduelin's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    Thanks for the effort to document this! I thought at 90 something thousand I would replace the U joint for good measure at 100K. At 100K all was well and so I thought maybe 125k. Now at 156K I monitor for any changes in vibration or "feel" and print or subscribe to threads like this one dealing with it.

    FWIW a seasoned Honda tech now retired told me to place the heel of my boot against the RH step plate and you can feel for drive train vibrations during different drive train loads.


    Dave

    Honda ST1300
    Honda NC700XD
    Honda CH80

  7. #7
    AdminiSTrator Mellow's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    Great write-up Jeff thanks, I assume I can ignore your text about pictures?

    I'm moved this to the article section and placed a permanent redirect in the previous spot.

  8. #8
    Mike Brown 970mike's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    Another great wright up Jeff, thank you for taking the time to document this.
    R.I.P. Terry 'ACL' Hammond ___ R.I.P. Bob Donaldson

  9. #9
    Site Supporter
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    4jranch's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    Thanks Dave, Joe and Mike. My pleasure, really.



    Quote Originally Posted by dduelin View Post
    FWIW a seasoned Honda tech now retired told me to place the heel of my boot against the RH step plate and you can feel for drive train vibrations during different drive train loads.

    That fits my experience, I felt the vibration first in my foot pegs...

  10. #10
    Site Supporter yosso's Avatar
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    Re: ST1300 - U-Joint Removal and Replacement

    Wow.

    Great write-up. I'm in the process of wrapping up the replacement and halfway documented the removal on my blog.

    You're right the most difficult part was getting the boot back over the swing-arm. Wish I had thought of utilizing silicone grease to assist.

    Thanks again for sharing.

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