New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

Kevin_56

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The infamous 'wire headlight lock' has to be bent just so in order for it not to press against the fan assembly and off center the bulbs. It is much easier and quicker to do it on the bench than on the bike IMHO.
On the three 1300's that I have done, the bails had to be "adjusted" to not press against the fan unit. 2003, 2006 and a 2007.
 
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So far so good on all three bikes with the Eviteks. There's always something 'new' coming out, but I've been real pleased with these. I do recommend removing the headlight assemble for the install, especially if you have a ABSII ST1100. The infamous 'wire headlight lock' has to be bent just so in order for it not to press against the fan assembly and off center the bulbs. It is much easier and quicker to do it on the bench than on the bike IMHO.
Thanks Uncle Phil! I guess since I have 1 burnt out low beam, it's time to upgrade! Do you recommend cutting new slots/grooves in the headlight housing to accommodate the standard tab layout of the new bulb or would you recommend the shims? If you recommend the shims, do you know a source for them? Just one more lazy question. Can you point me to more info on the 'wire headlight lock' issue? I'm not familiar.

Thanks again,
Extemp.
 

Uncle Phil

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ST Gui

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Those Cyclops bulbs are interesting but if they're really 7000L I wonder how suitable they are for street use. I have no faith in the comment that said something about 'nobody flashed me' as some endorsement that they won't impact others' vision. I don't know anybody else who flashes their highbeams when seeing overly bright headlights. I look like I'm sending flashing light.

I like that they're not 6500ºK and wonder what 5500ºK looks like. My G6s are just a touch too blue for my taste even though they're just a touch blue. (Looking at the G6 box 5500K bulbs might be available from the manufacturer.)

The replaceable drivers could be handy. That's probably what dies in LED bulbs instead of the LEDs proper. Out of the box ST fitment is a nice touch. 1100s wouldn't need shims.
 

STumped

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I don't know anybody else who flashes their highbeams when seeing overly bright headlights.
I do (in car or bike). One of my pet peeves....rude, inconsiderate drivers using their high beams in city driving when there is absolutely NO need for them other than blinding me!

:tc1:
 

flip-flop

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On another forum, these were discovered lately. Cyclops finally put some shields on their H4 LED's... higher output and better colour temperature.... might be the winner so far. Anybody wanna try some?
https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/7000-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_169.html

Note, specific model for ST1300 available. I assume that means the tabs are in the proper location for ST's.
is that per bulb or for a pair? Still, it's almost 2x the cost of eviteks....
 
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Cyclops price is each, so it's 4X the cost of Eviteks! Like the fact that all LED's are on during high beam (50 vs 25 watts) but I'll keep what I have. The only issue after riding with them for 7 months (~8k mi) is a noise from one or both fans when they are first turned on. Not the "wire hitting" sound addressed 10 pages ago; more like a bad bushing squeal in the fan bearings. It seems like the fans start slow and increase in speed as the bulb heats up. Sure would be a pity to fry a lamp because of a failed fan...
 
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spiderman302
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the Cyclops is the same as the HIKARI h4 led or the MOSTPLUS h4 that use the XHP50 led. I have tried the bulb and it is brighter than the Evitek. but the larger emitter creates a taller beam pattern and puts too much light close in. it is great for off road where you are concentrating on what is close to you but at 75 mph on the open road I want too see far down the road. I have had two XHP50 bulbs fail early since they run so hot. I run one in my DRZ400 since it only has one bulb and I do not ride it often.
 
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spiderman302
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I updated the first post with the latest for 2018. the new F2 H4 bulb from Evitek.

F2_ax.jpg

I am using it in my daily rider and am pleased with the light pattern.....
 
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ST Gui

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Does the new F2 use the same adapter that is held in place by the bail? Basically is it a twist, remove, install and twist change out?
Looking at the base in the pic I see three holes and it looks like there's a ball (in the middle one) that clicks into place. It would make sense to have a removable adapter so that the same bulb assembly could fit into various adapters for different applications.
 

Kevin_56

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Yes the mounting ring comes off just like the other bulbs.
I should have been more clear. Does the Mounting Ring from the G6 work for the new F2.

St Gui - I do not trust pictures as they can be "generic" and not pertaining to what you are actually getting.

spiderman302 has done a great job in the past and I bet the picture is what you are getting. I just wanted an answer as to the effort needed to make the F2 switch.
 
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spiderman302
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The ring is different, the new bulb snaps in place and you can rotate the bulb to any angle. Makes it easy to make it flat. on my ST1300 it took me about 3 minutes to swap the bulbs. the hardest part was the darn spring clip. The above picture (post 515) is the one you want, if it looks similar but slightly different then it is the prior 25 watt T8 bulb.

T8 from 2017

T8__a.jpg
 

Kevin_56

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The ring is different, the new bulb snaps in place and you can rotate the bulb to any angle.
Thanks, that is what I was looking for in an answer. As one can not get a replacement bulb at your local auto or big box store, I was thinking of getting a backup set of bulbs. Yes those bails and mounting rings can be a bit tricky to replace.
 
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spiderman302
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H4 leds with large COB leds do not focus well and creates a wide diffused beam. These are OK if you are doing offroad and you only need to see only 50 ahead. They make good flood lights. but if you are doing the speed limit and need to see far down the road then you need a more focused beam. The latest versions have made great improvements in getting the light further down the road. Also your COBs do not have the low beam shield that is necessary for a H4 bulb to make a sharp cut off that protects the eyes of on coming drivers.

The newer leds have smaller emitters that are shaped and positioned just like the filament of the orignal H4 halogen bulb so as to create a good beam pattern. It is all about shielding the low beam and then getting the focus right.

F2 cut away, shield removed, to see the placement of the back to back leds.

F2_cut_halogen1.jpg
 
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Andrew Shadow

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The longevity update:
I installed the Evitek G6 LED bulbs that were first recommended by Spiderman in this thread back in September of 2017. The electronic control box that is part of the wiring harness of one of the bulbs failed. So it lasted for six years. It still works on high beam but blows the fuse on low beam. The other one is still working fine. My original halogen bulbs were in there for six years before I put in the LED bulbs, and they are still working just fine as that is what I have put back in to get my headlamps working again.

The problem:
This happened while I was out on a ride. I noticed that I didn't have any headlamps when I went through a covered bridge that has yellow reflective markings on the sides and I didn't see any reflection from my headlamps. I tried my high beams and still no reflection, and I noticed that I had no high beam indicator on my dash either. The internal electronic control box failure caused a short that blew one of the headlamp fuses taking out all headlamp function, high and low beam, on both sides. There was no point in replacing the fuse as it would just blow again. So I had to ride home with no headlamps which makes a person feel uneasy. It feels like your safety has been compromised because you are so much less visible now.

I know that halogen bulb filaments can short out and cause a fuse to blow as well, but that is extremely uncommon with incandescent bulbs. Overwhelmingly an incandescent bulb will just stop illuminating, it won't cause a short circuit. The rest of the headlamp system continues to function providing illumination. Electronic control box failures seem to result in a short circuit much more frequently, which in the case of headlamps is not to good if it results in the loss of all headlamp function.

The above aside, I find the LED bulbs to be far superior to the halogen, and I will be putting LED's back in once I get around to getting some.
 
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