New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

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How do you remove the collar that goes around the bulb (without breaking it? :) The instructions tell you to remove that collar and install it into the bike but they don't say how to remove it. Does it require a rotation, or a straight pull to remove it? I just can't tell from the photos and text what they really intended to happen here and am worried about breaking it before I even get it installed.

Thanks,
Joel
 

Throttlejockey

Padden is my hero
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Don't worry about breaking it. I found that the pins don't really lock anyway. When installing mine back in the collar after they were installed it just kept spinning. The plastic nubs that stick out aren't strong enough. This does make it easy to index the bulb though.
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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First test with the LEDs, using them with a modulator and THEY WORK GREAT!

The issue I have had with the SDC Modulators is that they use the power from the left headlight, so while the headlights are modulating, they are a bit on the dim side. Because the LEDs don't require as much power to light them up, the headlights during modulation are much brighter.

Fantastic is all I can say! I'm going to test them out a little more, but if they are durable, like they should be, these will be great! I'll be picking up another set for my 2012 in a week or two!

:woo:
So, I've been testing these all week! The only problem I'm seeing is that the lower beams are so bright, I have to turn the modulator off more often to keep from irritating the people in front of me!

The modulator works so good with these!
 
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STraymond

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Since the Honda OEM bulbs are the same for both the ST11 and ST13, and since the Cyclops people have an "ST1300" version of the base for their LED, I would assume that their ST1300 LED bulbs have the tabs in the U.S. Honda locations. This should mean that the ST11 would not require the adapters.
 
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So if I'm reading this thread right, these LEDs have similar brightness as HIDs, use the stock wiring (no ballasts, extra wiring, relays...), have good light dispersal pattern and will last the life of the bike. Any downsides?

My second HID bulb just died so these LEDs might be the better option. Anyone using these on an ST1100 have any feedback?

Thanks.
 

970mike

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Since the Honda OEM bulbs are the same for both the ST11 and ST13, and since the Cyclops people have an "ST1300" version of the base for their LED, I would assume that their ST1300 LED bulbs have the tabs in the U.S. Honda locations. This should mean that the ST11 would not require the adapters.
That bulb should work if they are the same without any adapter.
 
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So where are we attaching the ballasts (boxes)?
I zip-tied mine, along with the wiring plugs up behind the upper-inside Tupperware panels (the black panels located immediately outboard of your forks). They're easy to remove should I ever need to replace a bulb while on a trip ... then again, these LEDs are supposed to last a long time.
 
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spiderman302
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Here is the photo of light pattern created by the Eviteks G6 H4 bulb on my ST1300. Low beam on the top and high beam on the bottom. It creates a very nice bright flat wide pattern with a sharp cutoff. No glare for the rider or on coming traffic. The magic is in the little metal shield under the low beam elements just like the original H4 halogen bulb.

LowHighbeam.jpg
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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spidey I still marvel at the fact you were able to get a manufacturing company to incorporate mods based on your research and get us an LED option that puts light where it will do some good in a do no harm kind of way. Seriously. Good on ya!
 

STraymond

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spidey I still marvel at the fact you were able to get a manufacturing company to incorporate mods based on your research and get us an LED option that puts light where it will do some good in a do no harm kind of way. Seriously. Good on ya!

Eliminating the glare and having good low beam cutoffs go a long way towards being able to use high output lighting. To eliminate the other driver blinding that happens on inclines (hills or bumps), we also need headlights to be auto-leveling/adaptive.
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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To eliminate the other driver blinding that happens on inclines (hills or bumps), we also need headlights to be auto-leveling/adaptive.
That's true of almost all headlights but yeah especially with hi-output lights. I thought OEM car HID lights were supposed to have auto leveling but I still see a lot of instances where it doesn't seem like it or the incline exceeds the capability of auto-leveling.

This is excluding DIY HID kits that probably don't have any auto-leveling. Still we're pretty lucky to have a worthwhile option as opposed to LED floodlights that are really only suited to off road or empty road use.
 

STraymond

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I've been following these LED threads and ordered the G6 bulbs via Amazon for my ST1300. Thanks to all of you who risked some $$$ and laid the groundwork for the rest of us!

I installed them yesterday along with LED corner/marker bulbs. I removed the mirrors, windshield and dashboard to make access easier, and was able to do all the work from above. I am impressed with the brightness, but the real test will come when I get a chance to ride after dark (snowed here yesterday). I am one who likes to carry spare bulbs, so I bought two sets of bulbs. Albeit, now I will have to remove one of the black inner fairing panels in order to replace a bulb (tie-wrapped excess wiring behind those panels). Glad this bike has two headlights.

It will also be interesting to see if the trend of ST1300 left-headlight burnout continues with the LED bulbs. Has anyone experienced a failure yet, and was it the left-side bulb?

I believe that the color temp of the Eviteks is 6500K. Do you notice a slight blue tint to the lights?

Ray
 
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