New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

Obo

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The bulbs look very similar to the earlier F2's I have, including the orientation of the LEDs. The wire on mine also comes out on the side at the 6:00 position when installed. That way the "cup" on the bottom side of the LED facing upward.

IMG_8093.JPG
IMG_8129.JPGIMG_8130.JPGIMG_8109.JPGIMG_8131.JPG

As for the slighlty non vertical position, that is actually desirable. See @dduelin 's post #535 above.

IMG_6485.PNGIMG_6486.PNG
 

Andrew Shadow

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Now that I have actually thought about it this makes sense. The deflector directs the emitted light upwards in to the top of the reflector, which directs the light downward exiting the headlamp housing.

That would mean that the G6 have been installed upside down. When I got them many years ago, the information on the forum stated to install them with the wire exiting at the 06:00 position. I just did it without giving it any thought.

Maybe my G6 were assembled at the factory with the shields installed opposite to what they should be because I don't recall anyone else ever mentioning this.

Strange that oncoming traffic never flashed me, and that they never seemed to be shinning the light to high.
 
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Andrew Shadow

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As for the slighlty non vertical position, that is actually desirable. See @dduelin 's post #535 above.
I think it was something like 2016 when I put the G6 in, so I really have no memory of how off vertical the top tab slot might be in the headlamp housing. It will need to be quite a bit to get a flat beam as recommended by @spiderman302 in post 539, because the emitter can not be rotated any further towards vertical in the base. Even though the ad states 360 degree adjustability, it isn't.

I guess I'll find out when I get to it.
Thanks for the responses.
 

dduelin

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I think it was something like 2016 when I put the G6 in, so I really have no memory of how off vertical the top tab slot might be in the headlamp housing. It will need to be quite a bit to get a flat beam as recommended by @spiderman302 in post 539, because the emitter can not be rotated any further towards vertical in the base. Even though the ad states 360 degree adjustability, it isn't.

I guess I'll find out when I get to it.
Thanks for the responses.
IIRC the G6 emitters had two opposed nibs than fit into two L shaped slots in the flange or base so the emitter was rotated to the proper orientation from vertical when installed. The F2 no longer has the nibs and slots. Instead there are a series of holes in the flange/base and the emitter has spring loaded balls that fit into holes spaced evenly around 360 degrees. In order to correct the orientation one must manually rotate the emitter if you want a flat cut-off like this:

Headlight cut off.jpg
 
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Bottom line is not where wires exit the lamp or where the little deflectors are but what the beam pattern looks like on the road and to oncoming drivers. @Andrew Shadow, you might take a small piece of wire, stick it in the socket and then tape it to the appropriate tab on the LED w. electrical tape. This should leave no scratches and you can test the lamp (well...3 short wires) in your bike aiming it at a vertical surface about 20' in front of the bike. As long as the test is for a minute or two the lamp will not get hot enough to melt the tape off.
 

Obo

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Bottom line is not where wires exit the lamp or where the little deflectors are but what the beam pattern looks like on the road and to oncoming drivers. @Andrew Shadow, you might take a small piece of wire, stick it in the socket and then tape it to the appropriate tab on the LED w. electrical tape. This should leave no scratches and you can test the lamp (well...3 short wires) in your bike aiming it at a vertical surface about 20' in front of the bike. As long as the test is for a minute or two the lamp will not get hot enough to melt the tape off.
He'll have to snip the two tabs off the mounting ring to make it fit, so marking up the plug ends is really a moot point.
 
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He'll have to snip the two tabs off the mounting ring to make it fit, so marking up the plug ends is really a moot point.
You think were he to return the lamps they would notice the missing tabs? :rofl1:

I have an 89 Honda Accord that I fitted with two rectangular Cibie Z Beam headlamps (bought those many years ago). A few months ago I put in two Evitek H3's and was able to get the left headlight lined up the way it should be, but the right has defied my efforts and aims much too high. I've not had time to go back in and play around with it, but I might have to either shim the LED or do some careful positioning of the headlight. Since these headlights fold flat into the hood, whatever I do has to be sturdy.
 

Andrew Shadow

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...... that fit into holes spaced evenly around 360 degrees.
I included the below statement in the earlier post because these are not like this. They can not be rotated 360° and they can not be rotated to be aligned vertically with the top tab.
It also shows that the emitter board can not be aligned vertically inline with the top locating tab. The emitter is rotated as far as it can go towards vertical.
The below photo better explains what I meant by the above. The yellow arrows point to what are hard stops. The bulb can not be rotated in the base past these stops. The below is as close to having the emitter board aligned vertically with the upper 12:00 tab as it can get. Looking at the below picture, the bulb can not be rotated counter-clockwise in the base any more to bring it closer inline with the upper tab because of these hard stops. This leaves the emitter board rotated about 9° clockwise from being aligned vertically with the top tab.

I know that there is a difference between the location of the top tab notch in motorcycle headlamps vs automobile headlamps. One is offset and the other is at 12:00 I believe, but I don't remember the details right now. Maybe that will make the difference and hopefully the beam pattern will work out OK.

F2_Stops.jpg
 

Obo

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The top tab in your photo will go at the 12 oclock position in the housing. The bottom two tabs you'll remove as they don't line up with the bike's housing.
Those stops you've highlighted with the yellow arrows shouldn't make any difference as the bulb isn't supposed to be straight up and down.
You want a slight angle on it @dduelin said, and the photo looks about right from what others have said.
I don't think you're going to have a problem.
But if you do, I'm guessing you could remove the ring and files those stops off.
 

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Those stops you've highlighted with the yellow arrows shouldn't make any difference as the bulb isn't supposed to be straight up and down.
Probably to simulate the RHS upward kick featured in EC-spec headlights to spread more light on the right shoulder while dipping towards oncoming traffic...
 
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spiderman302
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Andrew:
You should be good with this bulb. It is set up just like the F3. Motorcycle head lights have the top tab at the 11:30 position which makes the beam pattern flat.
yes the shields should be on the bottom. If inverted like your old G6 then the sharp cutoff will be on the bottom of the pattern and a soft cutoff will be on the top.
It will work but you did not get max illumination at the horizon to get max distance and it will have more glare.
If you had inverted that bulb to get the shields in the correct position then the high beam would end up projecting below the low beam.....
The high beam led offset needs to be set below the low beam led axis so it will project above the low beam due to mirror inversion.
enjoy the ride....
 

Andrew Shadow

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Thank you for the response.
Thank you also for the time and effort that you put in to this, and your willingness to share your knowledge with the rest of us. I have learned a lot about automobile/motorcycle lighting from you.

Based on your response I went ahead and put them in. They work just fine, and the beam pattern is also good. I actually had to rotate them one notch back from the hard stop to flatten out the beam so that they don't shine to high on the left-hand side. Now I have the flat beam with the standard up-tilt on the right-hand-side.

If inverted like your old G6 then the sharp cutoff will be on the bottom of the pattern and a soft cutoff will be on the top.
It will work but you did not get max illumination at the horizon to get max distance and it will have more glare.
If you had inverted that bulb to get the shields in the correct position then the high beam would end up projecting below the low beam.....
Curious thing about the above;

When I received the G6 back in 2016, you had several times written that they must be installed with the wire exiting at the bottom. In my case this resulted in the shields being upside down, but I didn't know that at the time and didn't pay any attention to the way the bulb was assembled. I just installed them and made sure that they were orientated with the wire exiting at the bottom.

The only way to install my G6 bulbs with the shields installed in the correct position on the bottom would be to install them so that the wire exits at the top. See the below photo. However, rotating it 180 degrees would also result in the high beam LED emitter being located higher horizontally than the low beam LED emitter. I'm pretty sure that you have written that it must be the opposite.

So, if everybody else installed their G6 bulbs with the wire exiting at the bottom, and their shields were correctly positioned, it would seem to be that mine were assembled incorrectly at the factory. As seen in the below photo, with the LED emitters located where they should be, the shields are assembled 180° opposite on the G6 bulbs (upper photo) vs the correctly positioned shields on the F2 bulbs (lower photo).

I wonder if I can get warranty after 6 1/2 years.
G6_F2.jpg
 
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