Brake & clutch problem

I live in Michigan. And yesterday the temperature was 48 degrees. The week before it was below freezing. My 06 Honda sits in the garage. I went to ride it when it was 48 degrees, and I had no front brake and clutch pressure at all it was fine when I start it. Does the cold weather have an effect on the braking system? And the clutch system? The rear brake pedal felt OK. The fluid in the reservoirs looks clean and is full. Any ideas is this normal.?

Sounds like you have air in the system and need to bleed the clutch and brakes.

970mike said:

Sounds like you have air in the system and need to bleed the clutch and brakes.

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Where would the air Come from.? It was fine when I parked it last month. I think my last ride before I last parked it was the end on November?

Regular service done on the hydraulic system? When was the fluid last changed?

I am not entirely sure. I bought it used from a dealer early spring of 2015. So I know it has at least 1 season on it.

It's easy to flush the systems and cheap as several bottles of DOT 4 brake fluid. I'd start with replacing the clutch fluid and see where that leads.

dduelin said:

It's easy to flush the systems and cheap as several bottles of DOT 4 brake fluid. I'd start with replacing the clutch fluid and see where that leads.

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I planned on that this spring, but it just seemed odd that both the front brake and the clutch both are having the exact same problem. They are separate system correct? Would come weather cause a problem like this?

I have no idea why this happened as it did and not really interested in trying to figure it out when there is no history to go on. The clutch system is simple and mostly bullet proof unless the system was not flushed now and then. If a bleed fixes it move on to the brakes. Are you able to flush and bleed the clutch?

Assuming motorcycle hydraulic systems and principles are similar to that of an automobile, I think I should be able to handle bleeding it until fresh clean fluid comes out of the caliper. I will read the tech manual I have.

Is there anything special I should look for? Or a special way for motorcycles?

No, there is nothing special about the clutch side and it can be done manually at the lever and bleeder. The brakes are more complicated but outside of the need to bleed particular circuits in a certain order it's the same as an automobile. I happen to use a vacuum pump on the brakes but they can be done manually with with a helper. I can send you a tutorial that a member here created that details everything hydraulic step by step. PM me an email address if you want it.

I also suspect contaminated fluid. Had a similar problem with my VW several years back. Worked fine until we got some temp in the 20's, then the brakes wouldn't work. Had it towed to the shop where they flushed out the brake system. The problem was moisture in the Dot3 fluid. Worked fine after that.

dduelin said:

No, there is nothing special about the clutch side and it can be done manually at the lever and bleeder. The brakes are more complicated but outside of the need to bleed particular circuits in a certain order it's the same as an automobile. I happen to use a vacuum pump on the brakes but they can be done manually with with a helper. I can send you a tutorial that a member here created that details everything hydraulic step by step. PM me an email address if you want it.

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Dave, would this be the tutorial that you're referring to?

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?68913-ST1300-Brake-Fluid-Replacement

Here's another more detailed article that I use when bleeding the brakes/clutch. I've never compared the two articles to see if there are any significant differences (ie, different sequence of steps, etc.).

I have not worked on the brakes or clutch on my ST yet (beyond bleeding - but I don't consider that 'working on them' - bleeding and changing fluid is routine maintenance). But from my knowledge of brakes and clutches on cars, the only reason that both hydraulic systems might go south at the same time after a drop in temp might be contaminated (read old) fluid or old rubber parts that stiffened up when the temp dropped. Never seen it in a car, but you don't have maintenance records, so who knows how old the o-rings and parts are.

Don B said:

Dave, would this be the tutorial that you're referring to?

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?68913-ST1300-Brake-Fluid-Replacement

Here's another more detailed article that I use when bleeding the brakes/clutch. I've never compared the two articles to see if there are any significant differences (ie, different sequence of steps, etc.).

Click to expand...

No it isn't the same one.