5 Way T Vacuum Hoses

I'm going to be removing my gas tank next week to get at the ground wire connectors. While I'm there thought I clean up my 5 way T since the bike has started to idle just a tad rough with a slight cough at 2,500 RPM and many posts point at this being a cause. I replaced my plugs with iridiums last year and the old plugs looked excellent.

1) Since the ST is almost 9 years old, should I replace the hoses?
2) If I replace the hoses what should I look for to replace them with? I've seen several posts on different types and am a bit confused about what to buy at the local automotive shop. Rely don't want to mail order something hard to get.

Thanks for your assistance in helping me keep the bike on the road.

PS I have a new elbow hose for the gas tank to the lower tank on hand. Thanks for those posts.

I would replace all hoses and clamps while in there and the thermostat. For the peace of mind it is not that expensive to complete that job. Good luck.

You will have to pull the throttle bodies to get at those lines if you do you might as well replace them while you are there. I have an 03 and I replaced mine for the first time last year and they were all clear no clogging at all. Have you done a throttle body synch?

SteveST1300 said:

Have you done a throttle body synch?

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No. I don't have a carb tune stick. That will have to come Later.

SteveST1300 said:

You will have to pull the throttle bodies to get at those lines if you do you might as well replace them while you are there.

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I've read that the throttle bodies don't need to be pulled to get at the 5 way T. It could be I missed something there. What hoses did you use to replace them with?

Reginald said:

SteveST1300 said:

You will have to pull the throttle bodies to get at those lines if you do you might as well replace them while you are there.

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I've read that the throttle bodies don't need to be pulled to get at the 5 way T. It could be I missed something there. What hoses did you use to replace them with?

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What is being said:
To get the 5 way T out to check and clean it you do not need to pull the throttlebodies.
To replace the hoses that feed the 5-way, you will need to pull the throttlebodies.

You can't get to the source end of the vacuum hoses buried under there. Unless maybe you have some crazy funky robotic pliers and really good surgeon skills... or maybe just play lot's of video games and practice 5 different types of yoga.

T_C said:

What is being said:
To get the 5 way T out to check and clean it you do not need to pull the throttlebodies.
To replace the hoses that feed the 5-way, you will need to pull the throttlebodies.

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Thanks for the clarification. Any suggestion on hose material.

Reginald said:

Any suggestion on hose material.

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It's had to go wrong with Buna-N rubber or, if you want to spend a couple of extra bucks, silicone.

--Mark

A diagram always helps.

There are two five way tees under the airbox. But there is only one that causes issues, that is the smaller one, where all the connectors are the same size.

The way to tell which is which, the smaller one is connected to the Map Sensor.

No need to pull the throttle bodies to get at the 5 way T or the hoses. You will have pull the snorkels and the bottom of the air box. You need a good J I S screw driver to remove the screws from the snorkel collars... they have a reputation for being stubborn. A common #2 phillips screw driver may cam out and ruin the screw head. If that happens, you will have to drill out the screw!
Once the snorkels are out of the way, you can pull the hoses off the throttle bodies with some needle nose pliers or some hemostats. To make it easier, put a drop of Marvel Mystery Oil or other light penetrating oil on each end of the hoses and let it sit for a few minutes... they should pull off fairly easy. The 5 way T can easily be cleaned with some pipe cleaners.
Good luck!

vinny said:

... You will have pull the snorkels and the bottom of the air box. You need a good J I S screw driver to remove the screws from the snorkel collars... they have a reputation for being stubborn. A common #2 phillips screw driver may cam out and ruin the screw head. If that happens, you will have to drill out the screw!
...

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A good wack with a impact driver does wonders for breaking those loose!

That's how I have gotten all of mine loose!

SupraSabre said:

A good wack with a impact driver does wonders for breaking those loose!

That's how I have gotten all of mine loose!

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Yes, that will work also....

I replaced mine with 3/16" ID Tygon fuel line. I think I bought it at a hardware store or small engine repair shop.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23487

Lots of good advice and options for available material. I have an ancient Craftsman impact driver. However, I never liked the way it worked, stripped as many screws as it loosened. Think I'll go shopping at Tractor Supply for a new one. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tekton-7-piece-1-2-in-drive-reversible-manual-impact-driver-set?cm_mmc=SEM-_-Google-_-DynamicAdGroups-_-AllSiteTSCFreeShipStore&gclid=CI2o2LLL4coCFcKGaQodeTEGqQ

Thanks a lot.

Post # 38 is where I started to install new vacuum lines

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?142739-Add-my-bike-to-the-LEAKS-(/page4

Removed the snorkels on my '04 recently. No problem at all using a #2 JIS driver.

neilfb said:

Removed the snorkels on my '04 recently. No problem at all using a #2 JIS driver.

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I would think they have been removed in the past then! Out of the three bikes that I have had to do, non were "ScrewDriver" tight.... Like I said, I had to use an impact driver to knock them loose.

SupraSabre said:

I would think they have been removed in the past then! Out of the three bikes that I have had to do, non were "ScrewDriver" tight.... Like I said, I had to use an impact driver to knock them loose.

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Mine have been out before. It was less than a year old and I had the shop fix my excessive water leak. It poured(not dripped but streamed and puddled out) in freezing weather. Hmm, I ordered a JIS screw driver, said it was a number 100, wonder if that's a #1?

SupraSabre said:

I would think they have been removed in the past then! Out of the three bikes that I have had to do, non were "ScrewDriver" tight.... Like I said, I had to use an impact driver to knock them loose.

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I'm pretty sure the bottom half of the air box is put on by the same guy who installs the oil filter.

--Mark

I use a #2 phillips and a small pair of vice grips clamped at right angle to the screwdriver handle, both on my bike and on others at tech days. Press hard, go slow.

dduelin said:

I use a #2 phillips and a small pair of vice grips clamped at right angle to the screwdriver handle, both on my bike and on others at tech days. Press hard, go slow.

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You can do it that way, but those impact driver are great, I started using them on my 1972 Yamaha 250 twin, back when all the screws were crossblade.