Front spring replacement -

Is it possible to replace just the front springs while the forks are on the bike? If so, what should I look out for?

I understand this isn't the best solution. I had to replace the rear shock with a new Race Tech G3 that will be installed this coming weekend. The front suspension is still stock. I would like to at least change out the springs so they are set for my weight. If possible I would use the stock spacer etc.

My goal is to rebuild the front suspension with Race Tech springs and gold valves. Due to timing and finances, I can afford springs now and will do the valves later.

What difference in ride or handling will I encounter with the new rear shock and stock front end? Is there enough difference to upgrade just the springs now? Would it be better to wait and do both springs and gold valves? What is involved in doing just the springs?

As usual, thanks for you help!
Gary J.

No. Don't. Need to flip the forks over to get the old oil out (original since '04?). It needs to be changed. Plus there is bound to be a bunch of gunk in the bottom.
Need the forks out and level to measure the height of the oil too.

New springs will be different heights then OEM so you will need new spacer. Just use sched 40 PVC.

You could theoretically change them while still in there.. but it would take two days. Or spend half a day and pull them out.

Yes you can just change out the front springs, but NO you can not use the stock spacers. All of the aftermarket springs that I have seen are longer than the stock springs. Using the stock spacers would give you way too much preload.

If you wish to do it now, then pull the front springs and spacers. Cut the spacers so that you have about the same overall length with the new spring and spacer then re-install. Your preload won't be right, but it isn't right with the stock setup.

Obviously waiting til you can change everything is better. But a spring change using stock components will help.

jillsogw said:

What difference in ride or handling will I encounter with the new rear shock and stock front end? Is there enough difference to upgrade just the springs now?

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I replaced the rear shock first and took it out for a ride to make sure I had that right before replacing the fork springs. The ST did handle better in high speed sweepers.

I didn't add the gold valves on the front. I have the rebuilt rear shock and springs. After I added the springs it took me two more tries to get the sag right for my weight by adding shims to the spring stack (length of spring, PVC spacer, and spacers). Make sure the original steel shim is on the bottom. Love the way it handles now.

jillsogw said:

Is it possible to replace just the front springs while the forks are on the bike? If so, what should I look out for?

I understand this isn't the best solution. I had to replace the rear shock with a new Race Tech G3 that will be installed this coming weekend. The front suspension is still stock. I would like to at least change out the springs so they are set for my weight. If possible I would use the stock spacer etc.

My goal is to rebuild the front suspension with Race Tech springs and gold valves. Due to timing and finances, I can afford springs now and will do the valves later.

What difference in ride or handling will I encounter with the new rear shock and stock front end? Is there enough difference to upgrade just the springs now? Would it be better to wait and do both springs and gold valves? What is involved in doing just the springs?

As usual, thanks for you help!
Gary J.

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If you are changing out springs and gold valves defiantly the forks need to come off. Like others stated you also need to change out the oil, and check or replace the seals.

really it may seem like a hard job but it is not if you have wrenching abilities.

roadriderg said:

really it may seem like a hard job but it is not if you have wrenching abilities.

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+1 Just real tedious for me. Be sure to read the multiple threads in the forum and use a manual (note the setting of the front, tire manual works for me, somewhere in the forum I followed someone else's advice and it didn't seat right). Some threads will take you to other sites with very valuable hints and home made tools such as fork seal driver and hammer. Use the RaceTech spring charts and select a spring for your conditions (just you, loaded with gear and you, or two up). I selected just me for riding around at destinations, so I'm a bit under sprung loaded, but way better than stock. You're going to have to make a compromise somewhere on the spring rate.

+1 on all the advice so far. Should not one note the mileage and determine if the bushings should be changed out also..... or leave those until you do the Gold Valves if the mileage is OK........ I don't know typically where ST's need the bushings changed.

RaYzerman said:

I don't know typically where ST's need the bushings changed

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Depends on the wear on them. Don't remember the specs. When I had mine apart there was zero wear at 32,000 miles. There is a Teflon (?) coating on them and after a certain percent missing you're to replace them. I change the fork oil every 2 years and inspect then. If I didn't think it'd make the next two years, I'd replace.

Lots of interesting input here. Having come from older bikes, which had a fork oil drain plug, I would have expected the ST13 to have the same. Changing the fork oil,,, and/or springs and pre-load was a matter of just a few minutes per side. Not sure why Honda did not keep the simplicity where they could have. I really appreciate all the insights into improving the stock suspension. It is now pretty high on my "things to do list". Cat'

Catmandu2 said:

Lots of interesting input here. Having come from older bikes, which had a fork oil drain plug, I would have expected the ST13 to have the same. Changing the fork oil,,, and/or springs and pre-load was a matter of just a few minutes per side. Not sure why Honda did not keep the simplicity where they could have. I really appreciate all the insights into improving the stock suspension. It is now pretty high on my "things to do list". Cat'

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Besides the cost of machining a drain hole and the plug many modern bikes have damping cartridge forks that will hold a significant amount of oil in the cartridge even if a drain was opened in the bottom of the leg. The leg must be inverted and pumped to clear the cartridge. It's not just Honda or the ST1300. Drain plugs in fork legs have gone the way of the dodo bird.

Reginald said:

Depends on the wear on them. Don't remember the specs. When I had mine apart there was zero wear at 32,000 miles. There is a Teflon (?) coating on them and after a certain percent missing you're to replace them. I change the fork oil every 2 years and inspect then. If I didn't think it'd make the next two years, I'd replace.

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I have changed out many an FJR bushings, and when removed, at least the lower one is destroyed by the hammering against the upper (the uppers are stubborn). If the ST's come out easily, then you could inspect the Teflon, and I would do so (but have a new set at the ready). Bushings don't cost much, fortunately. The FJR's will show wear at 30k, and that is about when I've typically changed those (cartridge forks with damping adjusters). I'm a fan of total disassembly to get all the old oil and accumulated sludge out (Teflon, aluminum).

RaYzerman said:

I have changed out many an FJR bushings, and when removed, at least the lower one is destroyed by the hammering against the upper (the uppers are stubborn). If the ST's come out easily, then you could inspect the Teflon, and I would do so (but have a new set at the ready). Bushings don't cost much, fortunately. The FJR's will show wear at 30k, and that is about when I've typically changed those (cartridge forks with damping adjusters). I'm a fan of total disassembly to get all the old oil and accumulated sludge out (Teflon, aluminum).

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The ST1300s bushings are very easy to change. I changed mine around 73,000 miles only because I had new ones on hand and I expected the originals to be ready to replacement but the original bushings were showing almost no wear. I had changed the fork oil twice leading up to 73k.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?80871-Honda-builds-a-machine-to-go-the-distance-(shocks)&highlight=

I had the same question if changing out the fork springs was possible while forks are on the bike. No issues with fork seals and tired of waiting. Have a set of Race Tech springs waiting to go in for over 6 months. Great advice and suggestions in this thread.

Thanks all!

DbleDutch said:

I had the same question if changing out the fork springs was possible while forks are on the bike. No issues with fork seals and tired of waiting. Have a set of Race Tech springs waiting to go in for over 6 months. Great advice and suggestions in this thread.

Thanks all!

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Changing while on bike is a hassle not needed. Pull, clean, swap springs, oil and spacers comfortably. Reinstall and be done with half a day left to go.

T_C said:

Changing while on bike is a hassle not needed. Pull, clean, swap springs, oil and spacers comfortably. Reinstall and be done with half a day left to go.

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WOW you were right on! Started at just before 8 and finished just before noon and temp was still under 100
Only took a short test run but am impressed already. Original SAG was 44 and figured a target SAG of 36, roughly 15% change. Used the RT 1.0 spring that is roughly 15% greater than stock. Decided on matching the stock stack dimension with the new spring and spacer stack. Used Honda SS8 at 130mm. Buttoned everything back up, short ride and checked the SAG. Right at 36.
Lots of tips from this forum and a good helper made it work.

DbleDutch said:

WOW you were right on! Started at just before 8 and finished just before noon and temp was still under 100
Only took a short test run.

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:capwin:
:woo:

Reginald said:

I didn't add the gold valves on the front. I have the rebuilt rear shock and springs. After I added the springs it took me two more tries to get the sag right for my weight by adding shims to the spring stack (length of spring, PVC spacer, and spacers). Make sure the original steel shim is on the bottom. Love the way it handles now.

Click to expand...

I hope you can help. did you mean that you added springs & shims to the rear shock? If so, how? I have my rear shock off the bike, and it leaks hydraulic fluid from a bad seal on the main shock when the adjuster is dialed down. Can't see a way to rebuild. buying used oem ebay shock would probably leak also. New one is $600-750. I really just want to sell the bike for about $2500 anyway, don't want to put $600 into it.

I think I was an idiot for taking the whole thing apart anyway, not sure I can get it back together!

any advice much appreciated

Matt

Me_cmc said:

I hope you can help. did you mean that you added springs & shims to the rear shock? If so, how? I have my rear shock off the bike, and it leaks hydraulic fluid from a bad seal on the main shock when the adjuster is dialed down. Can't see a way to rebuild. buying used oem ebay shock would probably leak also. New one is $600-750. I really just want to sell the bike for about $2500 anyway, don't want to put $600 into it.

I think I was an idiot for taking the whole thing apart anyway, not sure I can get it back together!

any advice much appreciated

Matt

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The poster you replied to hasn't been to this forum in nearly three years. I see that you have several options.

A new OEM shock or:

1. RaceTech and maybe others can rebuild the OEM ST1300 shock. You would have to contact RaceTech for a current price. When they overhauled mine over 5 years ago it was about $375. I liked the refurbished and revalved shock and under my weight it performed well.

2. Find a used shock that someone replaced with aftermarket or the like. As you say, it might leak but leaks are not reported often FWIW.

I have a used but intact and completely serviceable OEM ST1300 shock that I bought before sending off my original to RaceTech. It was supposed to have about 10,000 miles on it. Racetech made a mistake on my shock and with their shop backlog at the time and a week of UPS each way it ended up taking about 6 weeks to get my RaceTech rebuild done and installed. So the shock might have 14,000 miles on it. It's boxed up in the garage. I paid $100 plus shipping for it and that seems fair to me. Let me know if you want it.

Thank you, it does sound reasonable and I may take it. But first, question for you: what I really would like to do is something like just shim up the spring or something so that even with no hydraulic pressure from the adjuster it would function adequately. You think something like that it possible?

Me_cmc said:

Thank you, it does sound reasonable and I may take it. But first, question for you: what I really would like to do is something like just shim up the spring or something so that even with no hydraulic pressure from the adjuster it would function adequately. You think something like that it possible?

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It stands to reason that the rear spring could shimmed but that is missing the point of the relationship of rider and cargo weight, spring rate, and amount of preload. After 18 years we know enough about the bike, the stock spring, and free sag to know that a rider of more than 180 lbs in gear has reached the maximum weight that 10 mm of preload can handle and have the shock do it's job in the middle 1/3rd of travel. If you weigh more than this, you are sliding off the bottom of the scale and making do with what you got. You can't shim it more than 10 mm and expect a miracle.