Over heating need advice

ST Gui

240Robert
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The overflow tank was "full" of coolant so now my question is - once I refill the radiator to the top of the filler neck do I need to siphon out the overflow tank to bring it's level back into spec?
Unless the radiator is really low I'd ride the bike and let it suck coolant from the overflow tank. If it's low when cold I wouldn't fill it to the neck. That's what I did with a car and it worked fine. I jus topped of the overflow tank as needed to get back in "spec".

smunderdog said:
I would assume it would just eventually blow out of the overflow tube attached to the tank...so is that the only downside to not siphoning it?
That's how it should work. I don't know where the expelled coolant ends up besides on the ground eventually. Does it blow back onto the underside of the bike? Does it hit the rear tire? Drip inside the plastic somewhere? Any of that might be a downside.

After filling the radiator I'd take some quick short rides to get the temp up and maybe get the fan to kick in then check the overflow reservoir. I'd prefer to siphon the excess as needed instead of having end up on the bike.
 
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Gotcha - the overflow tank overflow hose is routed so excess that blows out drops down between the muffler & rear tire. I expected your answer would be what I would hear...thanks!
 

John OoSTerhuis

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I'd check coolant levels at the radiator AND reserve tank first.
JMHO, but I'd surely get the coolant levels where they should be before a long trip; IOW, full radiator and reservoir between the marks. Put the siphoned coolant into the radiator if you wish; otherwise, you can just use water if coolant isn't readily available, to get you home. Take a test ride long enough to get the engine up to operating temperature. Check the reservoir level while still hot, and again when cooled off.

John
 
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didn't have any silicone grease with me. Please make a note that whipped butter from the hotel breakfast counter works. :)
Please specify which brand of butter was used, lubrication issues are critical. Has there ever been a whipped butter vs. stick butter, vs. margarine thread?
 
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JMHO, but I'd surely get the coolant levels where they should be before a long trip; IOW, full radiator and reservoir between the marks. Put the siphoned coolant into the radiator if you wish; otherwise, you can just use water if coolant isn't readily available, to get you home. Take a test ride long enough to get the engine up to operating temperature. Check the reservoir level while still hot, and again when cooled off.

John
Most definitely. Is it just me or is it pretty difficult to see the coolant through the translucent plastic of the overflow tank? I did clean it out when I serviced the system last week so it isn't sludge that is blocking my view...it just seems tough to see through the plastic.
 
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It IS a bit difficult to see, especially so if you are looking through the small inspection "window" provided, with the plastic still in place. I usually shine a work light in from behind to get a better look.
 
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Most definitely. Is it just me or is it pretty difficult to see the coolant through the translucent plastic of the overflow tank? I did clean it out when I serviced the system last week so it isn't sludge that is blocking my view...it just seems tough to see through the plastic.
This is the only drawback to having clean coolant.
 

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I got stranded last night as the bike overheated and shut itself down. I had CAA come pick me up, during the wait the bike cooled down and I was able to start it again.This morning I took the plastic off and went through the trouble shooting guide in Clymer?s.&nbsp; First off fluid was down about a pint at the radiator. My reservoir was at proper level. I jumped the fan switch and the fan comes on strong. ( I had the system flushed out by a friend in the fall, the rad vacuumed of crap between the fins)I spoke with my mechanic and he suspects an air pocket. He suggested I have the bike on the side stand and fill the radiator to max Run a cycle let it cool down and check the rad again. I've run it through a cycle and the temp hasn't gone pass the halfway mark. The fan cycled on and off a number of times during the test. I then noticed the overflow tube was broken at the radiator cap and was full of crud.&nbsp; Upon closer inspection the metal tube for the overflow was also plugged with crud.I cleaned that out, and removed the bad section of the overflow tubing. I then ran the bike a couple more times with the rad cap off, till next to no;air bubbles appeared. I syphoned out some coolant out of the reservoir tank till it was at the upper mark. Put the bike back together and rode around town and the temp was back to what I consider normal. 1/4 on the highway just below half in town.<br>This thread helped me a lot as well, thanks to those who contributed. It was a coincidence that I had an overheating problem as well.
 
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John OoSTerhuis

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Most definitely. Is it just me or is it pretty difficult to see the coolant through the translucent plastic of the overflow tank? I did clean it out when I serviced the system last week so it isn't sludge that is blocking my view...it just seems tough to see through the plastic.
Yes, it can be hard to tell. I carry one of these cool flex-shaft flashlights (Streamlight 65618) to shine behind the reservoir to check the level. Handy for all kinds of work, including carb syncs and valve clearance checks. Recommended.

link

John
 
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kiltman

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The engine would turn over but failed to start, that's the extent of my knowledge. There's no blue smoke coming out of it now, it appears to run strong now. I found it strange myself
 

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I am not mechanical so take this with that in mind. We owned a 1979 Dodge Van and on hot days it was sometimes difficult to start when the engine was hot, it ran fine when hot but would not start after a short stop but half hour or so later it would start easily. I don't remember if the problem was ever fully resolved (the van was totalled when it was run into while parked and smashed into a fire hydrant) but the mechanic said it had to do with the carburetor getting vapour locked.

Gerhard
 
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Update: After fixing the overflow hose connection and topping off the coolant I rode home almost 1100 miles with the temp gauge indicating the system was working as normal - fan kicks on when needle hits the 12:00 mark. I will admit that the majority of my ride home was at interstate speeds which had the needle way over to the left (cool)...but the few times I did pull off and there wasn't as much air flowing the system seems to be a-ok. Still going to change out that full overflow hose though.

Thanks gang!
 

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FWIW, you can take the overflow tank off, add some soapy detergent and some BB's, and give it a good shake. Empty out the crud and repeat a couple/few times. Cleans up pretty good that way.

Peace and All Good
 
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FWIW, you can take the overflow tank off, add some soapy detergent and some BB's, and give it a good shake. Empty out the crud and repeat a couple/few times. Cleans up pretty good that way.

Peace and All Good
Did that last week when I flushed the system...just threw a few nuts/bolts in there and it worked like a charm!
 
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