Power port in right side storage box. (06 ST)

I would go with a 5amp. Most electronics that you would charge off of the port will only pull around 1 or 2 amps anyway.

cjames431 said:

I would go with a 5amp. Most electronics that you would charge off of the port will only pull around 1 or 2 amps anyway.

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The wiring for the socket is sized to carry 2A and the fuse is sized to prevent melting or fires in the event of a short. Installing a larger fuse is like putting a penny in the fuse box.

If your local stores doesn't have the right size, Amazon does.

--Mark

Agree.... 2 amp only since that's what came out, that's the load the wire is designed to pull. Especially true since you just blew the 2 amp and don't know why... no reason to risk messing something up since you can order one and have it in a week for a non essential part of the bike

:nuts1:

Rwst1300 said:

I see nothing in the OM stating what amp it should be.

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It's not factory but dealer installed. Hence not in the OM. Similar to heated grips.

Rwst1300 said:

Auto parts store clerk thinks it should be a 5 or 10 amp fuse.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

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That part just cracks me up. :nuts1:

Depends on what the mfg's rating is for their socket. Just what is the "power point" you're talking bout?

Rwst1300 said:

The inline fuse to the power port in the right side storage box has blown.
Auto parts store clerk thinks it should be a 5 or 10 amp fuse.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

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This is like saying: "Keep putting bigger fuses in until they stop blowing." - and something else does, like your wiring harness..

the_gr8t_waldo said:

Depends on what the mfg's rating is for their socket. Just what is the "power point" you're talking bout?

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exactly! unless this is a specific device connector its some kind of generic cig lighter or the like that is originally designed for more but someone may have just "decided" to install a 2amp.
If you cannot find the reason the 2amp fuse blew you need not fret to much as 2amp or lower fuses have a very tiny filament and thus are susceptible to being physically broken as opposed to being broken from to much current

If the 2A fuse failed then something is shorting the wiring (frayed insulation or pinched wiring) or whatever is being plugged into the outlet is drawing too much current. Or contacts might have some corrosion that's increasing resistance and causing a problem.

Increasing the size of the fuse and counting on the wiring to handle it could be a big mistake. Do you feel lucky? Well do ya...

What did you plug into it? Was it a high drain device? If blown fuses are going to be a problem find out if there's a defect in the wiring or socket. If not you might want to upgrade the power port to something more substantial. It might be possible to upgrade the wiring to the socket. I'd be comfortable using a heavier gauge on that socket and putting in a 5A fuse but that's me. If the failure is a one off (it would be for the fuse not the circuit) then order some 2A from Amazon and motor on Garth.

pics ?

Fuses are designed to protect the downstream wiring, and not necessarily the socket or appliance plugged into that circuit. Since the flow of electric current results in heat due to the wires resistance, putting in a larger fuse will allow the wiring to heat up - possibly to a dangerous level.

if you can identify the wire size, you could go to a table and find the wire's ampacity and choose the appropriate fuse that way, though to make matters more complicated, the same size wire will have different current carrying capacities (ampacity) depending on the insulation on the wire.

If it's the Hondaline socket, 2A is the proper fuse size.

The conductive parts of blade fuses are stamped out of a single piece of metal and are a lot more rugged than the thin wires they used to put in the low-current versions of the glass cartridges they used in the bad old days. Failures are pretty rare.

--Mark

Where is this fuse? Mine has been blown for a while now but I know why. (plugged in something that draws more than 2 amps) It's just that I can't seem to find the fuse to replace it.

I'll assume you have a quartet harness (accessory harness). The connection is on the left front side of the ST1300. Remove the left inner cowl; look for the red electrical connector on the quartet harness; trace the wire to the inline fuse.

If you don't have a quartet harness you'll have to remove the fairing to trace the wires back to the fuse.

Because I use a USB plug to charge my phone or whatever other electronic gadget, I use a 3 amp ATC fuse. The USB plug and devices are rated at 2.1 amps. I know, it's more than 2 amps.

Quartet harness info:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?26091-ST1300-Quartet-Harness-Farkle-Wiring-Guide
fairing removal info:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?21962-ST1300-Fairing-Removal

Reginald said:

Because I use a USB plug to charge my phone or whatever other electronic gadget, I use a 3 amp ATC fuse. The USB plug and devices are rated at 2.1 amps. I know, it's more than 2 amps.

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Not at the input. The output side of the adapter can supply 2.1A, but it does so at 5V. Current varies with voltage; to understand exactly what your gadget draws, you need to convert to watts.

2.1A at 5V is 10.5W. If your adapter is 100% efficient (meaning it's able to put out all of the energy it takes in; very unlikely), that 10.5W at 12V draws 0.875A. It's more likely less efficient than that, but even at a pretty terrible 50%, you're looking at 21W at the 12V input or 1.75A.

The fuse is there to prevent the insulation from burning up if the load on the circuit tries to draw so much current that the metal in the wire heats up. A dead short will blow a fuse that's marginally too large (e.g., your 3A where it should be 2A) immediately, but not all shorts are that blatant.

--Mark

Blrfl said:

2.1A at 5V is 10.5W. If your adapter is 100% efficient (meaning it's able to put out all of the energy it takes in; very unlikely), that 10.5W at 12V draws 0.875A. It's more likely less efficient than that, but even at a pretty terrible 50%, you're looking at 21W at the 12V input or 1.75A.

The fuse is there to prevent the insulation from burning up if the load on the circuit tries to draw so much current that the metal in the wire heats up. A dead short will blow a fuse that's marginally too large (e.g., your 3A where it should be 2A) immediately, but not all shorts are that blatant.

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Got it now. Hyzakp should head your warning. For me the 3 amp fuse should be fine though. I recently installed a Powerlet socket with 16 AWG wire.