CBR Tapered Steering Bearing Install, my experience

Joined
Dec 27, 2004
Messages
829
Location
Medina, Tennessee
Bike
2021 Tracer 9GT
STOC #
375
Due to the nasty weather here, I decided to do some PM on my 2003 ST1300 with 93k miles on the clock over the last two days. I took off the tupperware, the front wheel, forks, radiator, handlebars, covered the tank with a thick pad and then started my chores. I bled the brakes and clutch before removing the front wheel. I tightened up as many of the hose clamps I could get to behind the radiator, some were very loose, hopefully this will eliminate the tiny cool weather coolant leak I have had for six years.
Then the fun part started, replacing the steering head bearings. The 13 year old OEM bearings were still in there. There was some notchiness, but not too bad. I have a big trip coming up this summer, so, it was replacement time. For this I used tapered bearings from CBR. Comes with two bearing assemblies, two races, and two dust seals.
First of all heat and lube are your friends. Heat and lube any openings, ie: the steering head and the lower bearing assembly.
Cool anything that you want to put into the openings, such as the steering stem, and the upper / lower races. The steering head was heated with a heat gun. The races were put into the freezer overnight, the steering stem was plugged up on the bottom and filled with crushed ice.
Getting the old, original races out of the steering neck was easy. Instead of a long punch, I used a 24" section of 3/4" steel pipe. There is plenty of room at the cutouts on the race seats for this pipe to fit, one whack with a big ball peen and out they came.
Getting the OEM lower race off the steering stem was an exercise in heat, lube, a chisel, and a lot of patience. It would have been easier if I had taken the time to Dremel through it, but it came off eventually. You have to be careful not to damage the steering stem.
Getting the new lower bearing on was also an exercise in patience and the heat /cold method. I used the old lower race as a driver after I cut through it with a Dremel. This allowed easy removal. On top of that I used a 18" section of steel pipe that had an inside diameter very close to the diameter of the steering stem. This allowed me to drive the new bearing assembly onto the steering stem on top of the supplied dust seal and only apply force to the race of the bearing assembly. This took a surprising amount of force. I used my pipe and a small sledge hammer, but I would suggest using a shop press for this part if you have access to one. Also, be sure to protect the threads on the steering stem while doing this.
By far the most difficult part of this, for me was getting the lower race in the steering head installed evenly and completely. It wouid have been much more difficult if I did not have this:http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
I used my small sledge hammer and a driver to get the race started, but could not get it to go in evenly. Finally I used a flat tipped punch to even it out and then pounded the hell out of it with the driver.
The upper race was much easier, especially with my driver set. Bearings, races and dust seals were greased as much as possible with Bel-Ray waterproof grease.
I then put it all back together, upper dust seal, adjusting nut, lock washer, lock nut and like so many, could not figure out what torques to do the adjusting nut, so I studied the forum and came up with these numbers based on recommendations from others. I am a little worried about the final torque setting being to light, but when dealing with tapered bearings, it seems that you need to err on the side of lightness.
Initial preload - 28 ft/lbs. Turn the assembly back and forth 7-8 times then back off the torque to zero. Final preload - Torque to 30 INCH/lbs., then set the lock washer and nut.
It feels good on this setting, but the acid test will come with the scales and riding the thing. I then reassembled the forks, plumbing, fender and front wheel. It still feels good with the bike elevated.

Update - I have ridden the bike about 100 miles since doing this work. Had it to 110 mph for some stretches. No weaves, no wobbles, no notchiness, nothing. Feels really good so my torque settings appear to have worked well. With the old bearings, I did experience a whobble when getting into the airstream behind an 18 wheeler while passing. This has disappeared with my new tapered bearings.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,046
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
I am a little worried about the final torque setting being to light, but when dealing with tapered bearings, it seems that you need to err on the side of lightness.
Preload - 28 ft/lbs. Turn the assembly back and forth 7-8 times then back off the torque to zero. Torque to 30 INCH/lbs. then set the lock washer and nut.
It feels good on this setting, but the acid test will come with the scales and riding the thing.
Its also quite possible that as you put some miles on the bike the bearings will seat themselves in just a tiny bit more and you'll need to re-torque it again. On the 1100 I never paid much attention to absolute torque values, I just adjusted it by feel with the front wheel off the ground.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,640
Location
Jacksonville
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GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
006739
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6651
Its also quite possible that as you put some miles on the bike the bearings will seat themselves in just a tiny bit more and you'll need to re-torque it again. On the 1100 I never paid much attention to absolute torque values, I just adjusted it by feel with the front wheel off the ground.
The ST1300 is prone to the high speed weave and sticking to the prescribed pull torque values measured with a fishing or trigger pull scale is a smart thing to do. That said, switching to tapered bearings throws Honda's service manual values for the locking nut out the window. In order to get the pull torque values in range I had no torque at all on the locking nut, just finger tight. The top nut at SM value brought the pull torque values in range. My bike was prone to the weave but it all but disappeared after replacing the OEM bearings at 96,000.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,640
Location
Jacksonville
Bike
GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
006739
STOC #
6651
What figures did you use?
The pull values measured with a scale 90 degrees to the fork tube are supposed to fall within 2.14 and 3.2 lbs.

The SM says to tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 18 ft/lbs to seat it then retighten to 11 ft/lbs then line up the notches to 45 degrees which is a few lbs more. When I did this then tightened the top nut to 76 ft/lbs the pull value was very high. I can't remember exactly. It was trial and error after that with the adjusting nut to get the pull value to > 3 lbs.
 
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