Replacing brake pads question

I have an ST1100 I bought about 5K miles ago, and the brake pads are starting to look like they need replacing. I plan to go with the OEM pads. My assumption is that I check the rotor thickness and swap in the new pads. Is there anything else I need to do? Any other fiddly bits (like the 45108-ML7-922 SPRING, PAD) I should replace while the calipers are accessible? Thanks!

The pads aren't all that thick to begin with, if you have more than about 1mm of pad left they're good, so make sure you're not replacing them too soon. If they are worn out, check the sliding caliper bracket and lubricate as needed with high-temp brake grease, since you don't know when it was lubed last. Depending on the condition of the brake fluid this might be a good opportunity to flush and replace the brake fluid.

I would be sure to clean the caliper pistons as best you can before you push them back in. Normally, there is no reason to remove the calipers on either the front or the back - you can replace the pads with the calipers in place.

A good wear-indicator is the groove cut into the centre of the friction side; if its still visible, you got plenty of pad left, if its nearly gone, replace...

Dunno how UP replaces the brake pads while having the callipers installed, but he's a quite mysterious-dude anyway

By itself a pretty straightforward job, but there some points to observe:
- see that there is not too much brake fluid in the system before pushing the calliper pistons in; a spill is nasty...
- see to clean the exposed parts of the calliper pistons before pushing them inward; a gentle blow of compressed air, maybe a slight rub with a pipe-cleaner
- don't round/snap off any bolts (stoppers are delicate, use of torque wrench during assembly is strongly advised)
- if you find the calliper pistons really hard to push inward: time for a full overhaul... (you don't want to end up with dragging brakes and the aftermath...)
- use copper-slip and ceramic paste on the appropriate areas/parts (prevents grieve over corroded bolts later on...)
- +1 on the comment to replace brake and clutch liquid while already at it, especially if the reservoir view-glass shows it already been tinted
- don't forget to pump your brakes back up before leaving the lift/driveway! (I give them a functional test while on the jack...)
- don't overfill the reservoir tanks! Liquid level to the MAX line only with new pads!

ST1100Y said:

Dunno how UP replaces the brake pads while having the callipers installed,

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hmmm, this is how I always do it, unless I have another reason to have the calipers off.

Thanks for the tips! There are some miles left on the current pads but I am planning a one to two week trip this summer and figure it's easier to swap the pads now than halfway through a trip.

DeanR said:

hmmm, this is how I always do it, unless I have another reason to have the calipers off.

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Quite an easy task to be sure ...

Since you just acquired the bike, if it was mine, I would remove the calipers and clean the pistons like Uncle Phil said. After cleaning the pistons, I would make sure that they move fairly easily in and out of the calipers. I bet they won't. If so, pop them out and remove the dust seal and piston seal and clean the two grooves with some non-metallic "tool" , like tooth picks. You don't want to scratch the grooves. Clean the seals and then fill the grooves with dielectric silicone grease and replace the seals. Then coat the bores with brake fluid before replacing the pistons. Then drain & replace the brake fluid. Walmart sells synthetic brake fluid, BTW. The preceding is easy to do and doesn't take much time. Might as well do some PM so you won't have to deal with dragging brakes and have premature brake pad wear, down the road. The pistons can be polished up with some very fine Scotch Brite pad.

I'm using Volar Kevlar pads and am very happy with them. Can't beat the cost, either. $16 for a full set w/free shipping.

DeanR said:

...unless I have another reason to have the calipers off.

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While already at it, there is always something to clean, inspect, realign (stainless clips), put a dab of copper slip on, etc...
Just two bolts more and I have them freed to flip over, check and clean them buggers... ;-)

Sure, in theory one could just pull the pins, let the pads fall out and slap new ones in...
In the rear world there is a bit more to perform...

What I do:
Take the calipers off the bike.
Remove the old pads
Pull the caliper apart
Lube the sliding pins with specialty brake grease.
Clean the pistons, especially where they exit the seals, with a tooth brush and household cleaner (409, whatever) Rinse.
Push the pistons all the way back in the caliper.
If they are difficult, take the caliper off the hose, pad the caliper and blow compressed air in to remove the pistons and seals entirely. Watch your fingers! Clean everything thoroughly, install new piston and dust seals, coat the clean pistons with brake fluid, and re install. Reconnect the hose with new washers.
Install your new pads, put the caliper back on the bike and bleed with new DOT 4.

I had a ST1100 that accumulated so much junk on the pistons that they refused to go back in, so I did the above and all was fine. At the time I lived in Melbourne, FL which has a lot of sand and salt air which I am sure contributed to this. The pistons cleaned up fine with a Scotchbrite pad and 409. It would probably be OK to use a SOS pad on severely dirty pistons. I have not had this problem since.