Any way to slow down the 1300 steering?

I have to say I love the quick steering of my ST1300 around town. It's amazing. But I don't love it on the highway so much. My OLD BMW R100RS goes down the pike like a freight train on rails. NOTHING bothers it or upsets it. I think it's a superb highway bike and it's a lot of fun in the twisties as well but it wants more rider input for sure. And it's a farm implement compared to the ST.
I WISH there was a steering damper for the ST to settle it a bit more on the highway but there seems to be no easy way to get that done. It's safe and it doesn't worry me, but directional stability seems a little lacking. Kind of like driving a barn door down the pike as opposed to slicing cleanly through like the RS. Trucks knock it around etc. On it's own it's pretty good though.
There is no easy solution is there? The bike has only 11,000 miles and is like new. Bearing fine etc. Would tire selection have enough impact?
Jim

What are you running for tires and air pressure? Have you done anything to the suspension?

I've noticed this as well. The faster you go, the more "agile" it gets! Nothing I'm aware of that can be done about it, and you never really get used to it, just put up with.

The 'trail' is more sport bike than cruiser. Basically, increasing the fork angle forward will increase stability at the expense of agility. Unless there is something worn/wrong/broken with the suspension or steering (steering head bearings or swing arm bearings) or tires (diameter too small, air pressure, soft compound or ply damage) there isn't much you can do about it.
Still...lots you can check.

One other thing to check is the hydraulic rear shock preloader....if it takes more than one turn of the knob to feel resistance it's low on fluid....complete instructions in the tech/suspension thread...if the preload isn't enough for your weight it makes for a squirrely ride....ff

Hyperpro does make a steering damper specifically for the ST1300. I went with the RSC damper as it automatically reacts to the speed of steering input. In other words, slow movement equals less dampening but as the speed of movement increases dampening increases. You can adjust it for the amount of dampening you want applied. My intent was to prevent bad things from happening.

A lot depends on your tire choice. Run PR4s if you are not already, they tend to be slower turning in than say T30s. Also, your steering head bearings are probably fine at such low mileage, but check your front end for any play at the steering head anyway. Make sure your rear suspension is adjusted properly for the weight it is carrying.

At 96k miles I replaced my OEM ball bearing SHBs with tapered roller bearings. The bikes behaves much better even than it was new at high speeds, in wind and in turbulence created by other vehicles, like big trucks on the interstate. I do not know why.

Oldbikefixr said:

The 'trail' is more sport bike than cruiser. Basically, increasing the fork angle forward will increase stability at the expense of agility.

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If after checking out the ST's suspension you find it's in good shape then check your tires for proper sizes and inflation. If they check out there's one more thing you might consider: increase the trail by lowering the back of the ST with a shorter shock. That's an expensive way to go.

You might eek out a little more trail by dropping the fork tubes a little into the triple clamps a little. Either or both of these would increase trail and 'slow down' the steering. Even a change in tire pressure: more in the front less in the rear might effect a noticeable change. That may not be a good way to go.

How advisable is any of this? I don't know. I think there are a couple of members here who lowered the rear because the bike was taller than they liked. Don't remember any comments on the handling.

Tires are roadsmart 1 in rear and 2 in front. Don't care for them so much but I will wear them out before replacing. Steering bearings good no play. Rear preload adjuster is fine. Suspension is actually very nice. PO may have modified, dunno never met him. Wont lower bike don't want to lose cornering clearance.
Roller bearing may help because you can preload a bit and slow things down.
Byron can you tell me what benefits your damper has shown? Is there a write up somewhere or review? I could find nothing really other then they exist.

JimGregory said:

Tires are roadsmart 1 in rear and 2 in front. Don't care for them so much but I will wear them out before replacing. Steering bearings good no play. Rear preload adjuster is fine. Suspension is actually very nice. PO may have modified, dunno never met him. Wont lower bike don't want to lose cornering clearance.
Roller bearing may help because you can preload a bit and slow things down.
Byron can you tell me what benefits your damper has shown? Is there a write up somewhere or review? I could find nothing really other then they exist.

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Be real careful about too much preload on roller bearings. For the steering head bearing install, after I made absolutely sure the races were fully seated, I used 28 ft/lbs to seat, turned the head 4-5 times back and forth, backed torque down to zero, then went with 30 INCH/lbs. Then locked everything up. Great results.

jmcarruth said:

Be real careful about too much preload on roller bearings. For the steering head bearing install, after I made absolutely sure the races were fully seated, I used 28 ft/lbs to seat, turned the head 4-5 times back and forth, backed torque down to zero, then went with 30 INCH/lbs. Then locked everything up. Great results.

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Well I don't have roller bearing..but if I did I would be careful. The difference between too tight and too loose is usually very VERY little and usually difficult to get just exactly prefect.

After setting steering stem bearing preload there is a specific range of values for the pull force necessary to turn the forks from center. Measured with a trigger pull gauge it's like 2.4 to 3.6 lbs IIRC.

Replacing the ball bearings with tapered rollers at 96,000 helped my bike's propensity to weave at high speed but the "happy feet" at 70-85 mph especially in dirty air to the trade off for the otherwise delightfully neutral steering.

This supposes the things others have mentioned - adequate rear shock preload, tire condition and pressures. It is counterintuitive but high speed handling is better if the rear shock is highly preloaded and damping is set to prevent pogoing up and down.

Toss the tires and install a set of Pirelli Angel GT tires.
Motor Officers who ride the BMW's always complained about the Honda's handling, this is what made them happy again.

Also, if you're maintaining a death grip on the bars, relax a little.

--Mark

dduelin said:

After setting steering stem bearing preload there is a specific range of values for the pull force necessary to turn the forks from center. Measured with a trigger pull gauge it's like 2.4 to 3.6 lbs IIRC.

Replacing the ball bearings with tapered rollers at 96,000 helped my bike's propensity to weave at high speed but the "happy feet" at 70-85 mph especially in dirty air to the trade off for the otherwise delightfully neutral steering.

This supposes the things others have mentioned - adequate rear shock preload, tire condition and pressures. It is counterintuitive but high speed handling is better if the rear shock is highly preloaded and damping is set to prevent pogoing up and down.

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Honestly in the real world with cables and wires and all the other associated crap strapped on the the bars and secured to the frame, well accurate numbers are hard to achieve. So I do my best for the last 45 years and it's always been good.
But that's not what I'm doing after really. I believe the bike to be in good shape and properly adjusted.
Your mention of "happy feet" and others responses implies that what I am asking about is normal. And I think it is as well, for our bikes.
I am real curious about a steering damper though. I put one on my twitchy old Moto Guzzi and it made a world of difference.
I don't think the ST needs much though. Just a little would go a long way.
But installing a damper on this bike looks daunting!

Igofar said:

Toss the tires and install a set of Pirelli Angel GT tires.
Motor Officers who ride the BMW's always complained about the Honda's handling, this is what made them happy again.

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Bloody hell man I just put the front on. A freebie from dunlop. The RS1 handled better to me then the replacement RS2. When the rear is done I will toss the front as well!

JimGregory said:

Honestly in the real world with cables and wires and all the other associated crap strapped on the the bars and secured to the frame, well accurate numbers are hard to achieve. So I do my best for the last 45 years and it's always been good.
But that's not what I'm doing after really. I believe the bike to be in good shape and properly adjusted.
Your mention of "happy feet" and others responses implies that what I am asking about is normal. And I think it is as well, for our bikes.
I am real curious about a steering damper though. I put one on my twitchy old Moto Guzzi and it made a world of difference.
I don't think the ST needs much though. Just a little would go a long way.
But installing a damper on this bike looks daunting!

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There are owners that don't like the feeling and move on to something else more reassuring. No harm, no foul.

dduelin said:

There are owners that don't like the feeling and move on to something else more reassuring. No harm, no foul.

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No..I like the bike. It suits me as a great solution to hauling my girl around in comfort. I will run it up to Vermont this summer with her and hopefully a few other places.
My daily rider solo is my old airhead anyway.
I just wondered about a dampener is all. Would like definite confirmation that this would be money well spent, though I don't think I will get it. Not a deal breaker. The bike is that good.

I didn't have the RS but I don't recall my R100 as a great handling road bike in curves or over 90 mph. The flexible frame on long soft suspension gave rise to the Rubber Cow tag line for good reason. Airheads have other qualities worth celebrating

dduelin said:

I didn't have the RS but I don't recall my R100 as a great handling road bike in curves or over 90 mph. The flexible frame on long soft suspension gave rise to the Rubber Cow tag line for good reason. Airheads have other qualities worth celebrating

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My 92 RS is definitely well behaved. It is the same as a 1976 RS but with the improved monoshock swing arm and the last airhead forks. I massaged the forks and installed a nice shock in the rear. She handles well now but has limits plainly. It's still old tech stuff really.
But I myself don't handle all that well either and have left the peg scraping behind.
And the RS is MUCH better behaved at 90 then the ST. Longer legs or geometry or fairing or whatever. But again it has limits and 90 is plenty fast to go on the old girl.
The ST has MUCH quicker steering and much better suspension but that doesn't mean the old RS can't get around. It's a fun bike to ride for sure. But she WILL shake her head and spit you right off if everything is not up to snuff! Part of her "charm"
For the record though, the ST is far more capable. Road trips it's the ST all the way. No contest.