Oil problems, FI light.

I knew the ST1300 I was purchasing had problems: I trailer-ed it back home. So I fixed the brakes, removed the tupperware, found that the coolant reservoir bottle had a hole melted into it, and replaced that. This solved the fast idle problem, as I suspect the coolant was now touching the sensor which monitors that for the ECU/M. I changed the oil. Then rode it for a few miles, learned that the speedo and odometer were not working. Researched that and ordered a speed sensor. Then having the time and the need to make a trip to the local dealer about nine miles away, took a small road trip. A few miles into it the FI light turns on. I spoke with the counter guy at the service desk and he was vague, basically saying it could be a lot of things, which I sort of understand. So, on the way back, I glance down at my speedo, and the needle started dancing, 5, 10, 0, 20, and boom, 55 mph, and the odometer also began spewing data, hooray! Wanna buy a speed sensor? The seller told me that it was sitting for about a year, and if the obvious problems this bike had is any indicator, the oil was not dutifully changed. I believe the sensor was blocked by sludgey oil, and the new oil, along with the speed of the trip washed it clean enough to start reading what ever it reads. I would like to clean out the engine. My question is, can I use an engine flush from the car parts store to do that, without messing up the clutch, or anything else? I am about to sit down with some coffee and do some reading of the service manual. Did you know that the fuel system part of the manual is 150 pages long? Fun fact!!!

Good on ya for working on bringing her back to health. :yes:

I don't have experience with engine flushes, and I would be cautious (if that were mine). A quick search shows that, as one example, AMSOIL flush claims 'safe' for clutches: http://www.engine-performance-online.com/amsoil-products/amsoil-engine-flush/. The search also turns up quite a few threads on other motorcycle forums asking a similar question, ad they may be worth your time to read.

Edit to add one point: I see moly used in suspension within a number of engine flushes available. Moly is slick and I suspect would lead to clutch slippage. Beware.

I would just add a bit of automatic transmission fluid run it for a bit 50 miles and change out the oil and filter . ATF has high detergent and is very safe for clutches ,you may just let it run for 10 minutes with it in there without driving as well to clean a lot of the gunk out . Only put about 1/2 a litre in .

Lance Boyle said:

...found that the coolant reservoir bottle had a hole melted into it, and replaced that. This solved the fast idle problem, as I suspect the coolant was now touching the sensor which monitors that for the ECU/M.

Click to expand...

The coolant temperature sensor is in the back of the thermostat housing, which is the first place coolant goes after it's pumped out of the engine. Even if the system's low, and even in bypass, that area will still be full and the sensor will work. Low coolant would show up in the radiator.

A few miles into it the FI light turns on. I spoke with the counter guy at the service desk and he was vague, basically saying it could be a lot of things...

Click to expand...

...which is dealer speak for "I'm not going to tell you how easy it is to ask the ECM what's wrong so you'll bring the bike in for $100 worth of diagnostics that we have a 50-50 chance of getting right."

I am about to sit down with some coffee and do some reading of the service manual. Did you know that the fuel system part of the manual is 150 pages long?

Click to expand...

Interesting. Mine only has 91. You really only need to read the first dozen pages. Everything else is where you go after you've done the diagnostics and have code(s) in hand.

Here's what I'd do in your shoes, in this order:

• If the dash still isn't behaving itself, clean as many of the connectors in the electrical system as you can with a good-quality contact cleaner. WD-40 is not contact cleaner. Do not apply dielectric grease to contact surfaces.
• Change all of the fluids: fuel, brake/clutch, coolant, engine oil and final drive oil. Replacing the blinker fluid is optional.
• Run at least two full tanks of gas with Sea Foam or your favorite fuel system cleaner. If you're using Sea Foam, I'd recommend adding an extra ounce per tank to get everything cleaned out and un-stuck, as the valves on this bike are prone to varnish build-up if left to sit. Try to ride as much highway as you can.
• Identify and resolve any issues the ECM is complaining about.
• Check the valve clearances.

And under no circumstances should you install the FCE you're sitting on until the engine is back in good running order.

--Mark

Called Amsoil, and they said not to use the engine flush they offer in an engine with a wet clutch. It was not clear to me that they had done research on it, but that was good enough for me. Thanks for your response, the peeps on this forum are great to associate with.

Apologies for the delay, as I am just getting accustomed to the site. Your response is greatly appreciated, and your recommendations are sound. Fluids have been changed, the motor oil is about to be changed again, as I believe it is now contaminated with sedimentary gunk left over from the previous owner that did not make on the first go around.
I prefer the synthetic blinker fluid, distilled from the amniotic fluid of the antelope. Its clarity helps when it is foggy.

Lance Boyle said:

I prefer the synthetic blinker fluid, distilled from the amniotic fluid of the antelope. Its clarity helps when it is foggy.

Click to expand...

Absolute BS! Everyone knows that foggy conditions require gazelle based blinker fluid