Yhat's inch vacuum figures I gave previously..........and actually tested myself from 5,000ft. elev. up thru 14,150ft. elev. using a high quality mechanical vacuum pump. Sea level in. vacuum is a given at 21in. vacuum
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low power and low vacuum
- Thread starter Herb1949
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And to celebrate...260km of our finest local roads. Getting used to the handling and low end power, both are quite change after my VFR800 and VTR1000, as is the comfort level.
Glad you found it on yours.And to celebrate...260km of our finest local roads. Getting used to the handling and low end power, both are quite change after my VFR800 and VTR1000, as is the comfort level.
I did improve mine, but it still isn't right. I will check the connector you are talking about and see if it helps even more.
What I did find was corrosion inside the plug wire caps. Running the ohm test on the coils I found that I was getting over 80 ohms between the plug wires. pulled the caps and the reading in the wires themselves was right in the middle of the range.
Pulled the plug caps apart and the contacts inside, against the resistor, were corroded, cleaned them up and it runs much better. It still stagnates at about 6K rpm but seems to pull good up to there.
Still doesn't have the acceleration of my Intruder, with over 20 extra horses it should do much better than it does.
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Glad we're both making some progress Herb. I might look into my plug caps as well, although they appear to be OK from past resistance checks. I was definitely getting a low voltage to the ignition module, which I think was the corrosion in the red connector. I had my carbs out when I was looking at this, you will at least need the airbox out for access.
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Did you remove the wires from the coils and check the coil towers? I have found corrosion inside the coils also, on previous bikes.
Remove the caps from the plugs on each side and try Ohming between the two caps on each side. The spec from the Honda Service Manual is ( 22.5K - 27.5K ) Ohms. For each cap alone the spec is ( 4.5K - 5.5K ) Ohms ( the value of that tiny resistor). I have had several caps that measured way, way above that. It turned out there was a bad connection inside the cap between the spring under the resistor and the "bottom" of the cap. I fixed the problem by wadding up some copper solder wick and jamming it into the "bottom" of the cap with the spring removed, of course.
But I have to also say, even with the bad caps, the bike ran fine, as far as I could tell. I also have replaced my old plug wires with some yellow silicon 7 mm solid core wire that I bought by the foot from my local auto parts store.
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I got back into the ignition system on my bike last night and pulled the coils and plug leads apart. The spade terminals on the coils were pretty dirty and the coil mounting bolts were a bit corroded. The plug lead to coil junction was pristine, as were the resistors in the plug cap. I took the opportunity to pull the other electrical cables out and clean them behind the steering head.
These weren't too bad to extract, with the airbox removed, there are three bolts and a two gold coloured brackets at the steering head that need to be removed, then all the parts can be slid out and up.
My bike is running better and better with this work done, and the voltage at the ICM has risen to 11.8 (from 11.15V originally).
These weren't too bad to extract, with the airbox removed, there are three bolts and a two gold coloured brackets at the steering head that need to be removed, then all the parts can be slid out and up.
My bike is running better and better with this work done, and the voltage at the ICM has risen to 11.8 (from 11.15V originally).
Did you Ohm out between the two plug caps on each side ??
And how did the connections look inside that big red connector that TerryS told us about ?
And how did the connections look inside that big red connector that TerryS told us about ?