No Fuel pump noise

In my case it was the pump.

I worked my way to the back of the garage and installed a new battery.

Hit the on switch and I heard the pump struggle before it quit.

After a winter lay-up with five gallons of premium that cost $4 a gallon in the fall and a pint
of Stabil, I siphoned five gallons of foul smelling paint thinner into a container.

The fuel pump connector had 12 volts and no error codes flashed.

After removing the main tank and siphoning the lower fuel tank, I removed the pump module.

Applying 12 volts to the pump .... nothing.

I soaked the pump in a cup of PB Blaster for an hour or so.
I used a toothpick to get to the impeller through the inlet.
I was able to rotate the impeller back and forth one blade at a time.
Another hour in the PB and I applied 12 volts to the pump ( out of the cup )

It spun up just fine and after several more brief applications of 12 volts, it seems to
start and run reliably. Back into the PB Blaster for the night and I will reassemble the pump tomorrow.

This isn't the only issue.... There is a low fuel sensor on the pump assembly that I am sure has been contaminated.

I'm *assuming* it goes to the EMC and turns off the spark or the injectors when the gasoline in the lower tank goes below this sensor...... I don't think it turns off the pump ..... but the service manual isn't clear on this.

Sixacross said:

I'm *assuming* it goes to the EMC and turns off the spark or the injectors when the gasoline in the lower tank goes below this sensor...... I don't think it turns off the pump ..... but the service manual isn't clear on this.

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None of the above. The ECM will continue to run the engine until there's no fuel left and the crank position sensor says the crankshaft is no longer turning. The sensor in the tank is used in driving the display on the dash.

--Mark

Are you referring to the fuel gauge in the upper tank or the small sensor in the lower tank ?

I'm referring to the thermistor on the fuel pump assembly.

--Mark

Blrfl said:

I'm referring to the thermistor on the fuel pump assembly.

--Mark

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Thanks, Mark.

I will button it back up today.

Don

jfheath said:

You haven't by any chance bought a UK or European bike have you ?

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Non-US bikes would have VINs that won't register with state motor vehicle agencies.

--Mark

jfheath said:

Ah. Ok, but its always worth checking the stupid suggestions as well.

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Having been bitten by many of the stupid things myself, I wholeheartedly agree!

--Mark

jfheath said:

I'm a little late to this post - it occurred to me that your symptoms are identical to the symptoms that my ST1300 displays whenever I try to start it with the wrong key. That would be the key that I had cut just for use in the fuel tank and the panniers - the one that doesn't have the HISS chip inside.

You haven't by any chance bought a UK or European bike have you ?

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. No I wish it was that simple. I rode the bike to work with the key that was in it and when I came back out to leave.... No fuel pump. And currently haven't had any time to work on it not giving in to the dealership yet but I just want to ride so bad it's summer

My buddy just had this problem yesterday on his 2009 1300PA. After extensive diagnostics the problem was determined to be the ignition switch. Ignition switch replacement and bingo problem solved. Hope this helps out.

Wtaber1111 said:

My buddy just had this problem yesterday on his 2009 1300PA. After extensive diagnostics the problem was determined to be the ignition switch. Ignition switch replacement and bingo problem solved. Hope this helps out.

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aww comon dont tell me it was an ignition switch did his bike turn over at all? any other info would be helpfull

Yes engine turned over but would not start. It was the lower end of the ignition switch. We found the problem accidently by wiggling the key in the ignition and the fuel pump would try and start for just a split second.Was a PIA to replace it.

I've seen references in this thread and others related to "fuel pump noise" and/or "whir". I've had my ST1300 for over eight years and have never heard the fuel pump. I can hear the relay click when I turn the ignition on and the engine stop switch to RUN and the FI light illuminates, then hear it click again when the light turns off, but the pump itself is not audible. I would guess that I might be able to hear it if I had the seats removed and used a mechanics stethoscope or placed the business end of a screwdriver against the top of the lower tank to listen to it, but I have never had any reason to do so. All I know is that it is silent, at least with the seats installed. Am I the only one here with a stealth fuel pump?

Yes. Before you buy:

http://exposinghearingaids.org/truth-about-manufacturers/

Don B ... I've never 'heard' a silent ST1300 fuel pump. I bet yours whirs too.

Hi JDM,had this "no-pump noise" last summer on my 2002 1300. Turned out to be the fuel cut off relay suffering old age & not closing reliably.Six of the relays adjacent to this one are identical & any one can be swapped to prove the fault(use one of the headlight relays).All relays can be checked individually for correct closing & continuity reading.(On mine ,the continuity was not reliably around the required 0.5 to say 2.0 ohms resulting in no fuel pump operation) Ed. ps you can definitely hear a brief pulse of pump operation which ceases when the fuel rails are suitably pressurised

BakerBoy said:

Don B ... I've never 'heard' a silent ST1300 fuel pump. I bet yours whirs too.

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OK, I concede (partially). This afternoon I removed the seats and listened for the whir of the fuel pump when I turned on the key and switched the kill switch to RUN - the FI light did it's usual thing, but nothing audible from the fuel pump. I then placed the business end of a screwdriver from my workbench against the top of the lower tank and one of my ears against the other end of the screwdriver and repeated the procedure. This time the pump whir was clearly audible through the screwdriver! I do have slightly impaired hearing, but have no problem with normal conversation when others in the conversation speak in a normal tone of voice (I can't hear whispers), and I have no problem hearing traffic around me when I'm driving or riding, including sirens from emergency vehicles 2-3 blocks away. I attribute most of my hearing impairment to tinnitus, which I believe is a result of working in the oil field 40-50 years ago in the near vicinity of drilling rigs without any ear protection. I wasn't aware of the benefits of ear plugs at that time, or I would probably have used them. Dave's suggestion would likely not be much benefit in my case. To wit, a bit of the little research that I've done on the subject:

Medications

As of 2014 there were no medications effective for tinnitus.[3][70] There is not enough evidence to determine if antidepressants[76] or acamprosate is useful.[77] While there is tentative evidence for benzodiazepines, it is insufficient to support usage.[3] Anticonvulsants have not been found to be useful.[3]

Botulinum toxin injection has been tried with some success in cases of objective tinnitus (palatal tremor).[78]

Other

The use of sound therapy by either hearing aids or tinnitus maskers helps the brain ignore the specific tinnitus frequency. Although these methods are poorly supported by evidence, there are no negative effects.[3][79] There is some tentative evidence supporting tinnitus retraining therapy.[3] There is little evidence supporting the use of transcranial magnetic stimulation.[3][80] It is thus not recommended.[70]

- Above is from Wikipedia. (Sorry, I couldn't figure out how to indent the above.)

Trying hearing aids would be my last resort if my impairment ever becomes a real problem. In the meantime, I will solicit some friends with "normal" hearing to listen for my fuel pump whir before I can state with confidence that I have a stealthy fuel pump on my ST.

I have been going thru the same issue with no pump noise when trying to start my 06. I managed to make the bike not start by turning off the kill switch, turning it back on and then trying to start the bike in a normal way. No go. So I flicked the kill switch off and on 3 or 4 times and tried again. It fired up perfectly. Would this not be a kill switch issue?

There seems to be a number of things that can cause your fuel pump not to start... I found that a corroded/broken hot lead into the fuse panel was the cause of my problem. It was the only corroded connection. I've posted my my trials and successes in other threads elsewhere in the tech group. Hope you have found your particular problem.

Well everybody after all this time the st is fixed. Ended up being a broke wire somewhere in the harness. Ended up just jumping it out.

Yay... now get out and ride.